5,000 miles after ownership (~120,000) Engine stalls randomly, first major problem. Fuel pump went at 120000 miles. Never let a tempo / topaz tank get to E. There is very little reserve with the vehicle on E, letting the pump starve. I have not let the tank get to less than 1/4 now, and have had no further trouble with this part. Poor tank design.
I had thought it was the MAF sensor, or the TP sensor, but both were within factory spec. I was able to get the graph (voltage/resistance vs RPM) from www.alldata.com, via a library subscription.
Water pump failed, fairly normal, given the vehicle's age, and mileage, replaced.
Replaced spark plugs, wires, and air/fuel filters. Normal maintenance so far.
Leaking Tranny fluid: Replaced Transmission pan gasket, and transmission oli filter.
Leaking engine oil: Replaced valve cover gasket.
2003:
Replace spark plugs, engine runs smoother (Bosch 4+ Platinum, ~7$ US per plug) As of 2007 I still use these same plugs, they run great.
Started running Valvoline Fully synthetic (5$ US per quart) Noticed a fair (10%, estimate) increase in engine power. Between plugs, and synthetic oil, I shaved 2 seconds off 0-60 time, from 17 to 15, on the same on ramp, and ~70 degrees F, low humidity)
Low tread, replaced front tires (normal maintenance). On a FWD, and Front wheel disk brake (rear drum) vehicle the rear tires had nearly no wear at all.
Drained, and refilled radiator (Normal maintenance).
2004:
Muffler fell off due to rust, not replaced until 2006, Catalytic converter stayed on.
2005:
(Preface) This year was the big one for this car, it gave me about 25,000 miles before major repairs were required. (/Preface)
Steering problems: (Center walking)
Left outer tire rod end went, needing replacement, while at local shop getting an alignment it was discovered that both control arms were gone as well, couldn't get alignment until replaced. Purchased TRW control arms from Advance Auto, right control arm failed 3 months later, part replaced under warranty.
Tie rods (outer) ~20 USD (don't remember brand)
Control arms ~30 USD.
Alignment done by Goodyear. ~30 USD
New (Traction Grade A) Goodyear Assurance tires, with 'triple tread' purchased cost was 110 per (including fees) x 4
Cost: 440 USD.
Right outer tie rod end failed, replaced.
Left outer tie rod end failed, replaced under warranty.
Both Front rotors, and pads have been replaced (Normal maintenance)
2006:
Steering gear leaking fluid, probably from an end seal, as the boot was leaking. Researching this I found that if the end seals leak, new boots will give no more than a year of trouble free service, before they crack, and leak due to contact with the Power Steering fluid.
Steering gear replaced with AC Delco remanufactured part. Cost 110 USD.
Muffler replaced with a summit racing part, made in the US! for 15 USD.
Starter failed (seized). I gave it two solid whacks on front, and rear bearing surfaces with a 12 oz hammer. This broke it free, and oddly enough has given me no trouble since.
Alternator failed, replaced.
Cost: 200 USD, lifetime warranty
Battery: 50 USD (Normal maintenance)
Left wheel bearing went, replaced with Federal Mogul, bearing & hub cost was
80 USD from a parts wholesaler.
40 USD to have Napa press the bearing (not serviceable type).
Left wheel hub was replaced from a yard, as the old one would not accept the new bearing.
Cost: 35 USD.
Left drive axle CV joint went, replaced with AC Delco reman.
Cost: 40 USD.
Serpentine belt replaced (Normal maintenance)
Cost: 35 USD.
Within 200 miles the right wheel bearing went, replaced with Timken. Bearing & hub cost
80 USD from Autozone
40 USD to have Napa press the bearing.
Right drive axle CV joint went, replaced.
Cost: 40 USD.
Within 2000 miles the right bearing (Timken) failed again. I have been told they are a 'good company' whatever that means, so maybe I got a bad part. I don't know. I replaced it with Federal mogul. This time cost was:
110 USD for Bearing & hub, due to buying from a local retailer.
35 USD to have bearing pressed by retailer.
Checked grounding straps, and both were solidly connected, but somewhat corroded. I cleaned them with muriatic acid (Hydrochloric), and then reattached them with silicone grease. (The conductive variety)
New PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) valve installed, was leaking oil into the airbox.
Cracked vacuum lines to EGR, and PCV valve replaced:
Cost ~15 USD.
Right rear brake line blew, due to rust, I pulled the fitting off, and capped the line at the Master Cyliner, no one had caps, so I took the old brake line fitting, cut the brake line at the master cylinder, and used a propane torch, and silver bearing solder (for plumbing) to fill it in. Worked like a charm.
Left rear brake line blew, fixed the same way as above.
EGR pipe, from Exhaust manifold to EGR valve replaced. The nipple is welded on, and not even hot dip galvanized (zinc coated) I don't expect the EGR feed back pressure sensor line to stay attached for more than 3 years because of this.
Cost: 40 USD at a dealer, emissions component.
Car would not turn over again. Right before my History final at the local College. I went with black hands... I thought it was the starter again, upon inspection it turned out that the positive cable had simply fallen off, I put it back on, and it has worked since.
Drained, and refilled radiator (Normal maintenance).
The relay module died, this is located on the right strut tower, it contains the fuel pump relay, among 2 other relays. I pulled it apart, and desoldered the relay, testing it with my 12 Volt DeWalt battery. It was dead, due to no one selling this individual relay I replaced the whole relay module from a yard. I also replaced the solenoid (starter motor relay) at this time. Since the tempo in the yard had a new one, with no petina (copper corrosion) at all.
Cost:
Relay module: 15 USD
Solenoid: 5 USD.
Air conditioning is cold when refilled, but leaks coolant. Most likely seals need replacing, but I am unwilling to invest any effort in peripheral systems for this car. Mechanically sound however.
Driver's seat frame snapped, and fell all the way backwards, so I threw it out, and replaced it with the passengers seat.
My master cylinder had 3 different fitting sizes:
Both rear lines are on a pressure cut out switch (to keep the rear brakes from locking during a severe braking event) One was an M10 1.25 thread (factory size) the other was a 3/16th x24 thread.
Both front line brake connections are M12 x 1.25 threads.
Both rear lines finally replaced. Vehicle was towed with the E brake on, this necessitated the replacement of all rear wheel hardware.
Cost about 60 USD for shoes / wheel cylinders / hardware kit (Both rear)
All lines cost about 50 USD total.
Front rotors, and pads replaced again, front right caliper piston cracked, left showed signs of wear, both replaced due to safety concerns.
Cost:
Rotors: ~15 ea Autozone / Advance / Napa
Calipers ~17 ea Napa
pads ~20 ea.
As preventative winter maintenance all metal coolant lines, and transmissions lines were cleaned and coated with POR-15, body (what is left of it) was hit with a Napa rust stop, and truck bed under coat (not rubberized)
Trunk has holes, due to rust, on both sides (near wheel wells), and in the spare tire storage area.
Rear wheel wells have rust on the outside.
Rear floorboard area is gone, on both sides due to rust.
Latest, greatest.
The gas pedal would stick at about 1/5 travel, and not go any farther, at this time the transmission would refuse to upshift. Per a Technical Service bulletin this is cause by the Throttle Valve Cable. Problem was intermittant, but would usually go away. Three weeks ago it stopped doing it completely. Fine.
Yesterday on the freeway I pushed the pedal down to half way, to pass some one. The vehicle bucked, and dropped into neutral, while the speedometer fell to 40 (I was doing 65). Speedometer does not work now, and transmission will not upshift from 1st. Top speed of 20 miles an hour with a 4500 rpm red line.
This leads me to believe it is the plastic geared Vehicle Speed Sensor, which the ECM uses to calculate upshift/downshift points. So that the car doesn't think it is moving, and so will not upshift.
Transmission passed power brake test, and has reverse, so appears to be mechanically, and hydrodynamically sound. No fluid leakage, or burned fluid.
Left inner tie rod (that came with the AC Delco remanufactured gear is failing, center is walking again, and I will be going with a Moog part this time. Probably will replace both inner tie rod ends.
I did all the work on this car myself, save the wheel mounting, and alignment.
This car is an utterly worthless mode of transportation. The design of the steering components is intolerable, and they are stressed to hard to give reliable service.
The engine, and transmission are still mechanically sound, but most every other major system has failed.
I tried to give Ford the benefit of the doubt; don't buy this car, ever. I have heard that their trucks are reliable, however I am not convinced. I want to buy a Ford truck soon, before swearing off American made DESIGNED vehicles altogether.
If you are considering purchase, DO NOT BUY A TEMPO, OR TOPAZ. If you are needing repair, then I hope that this blog helps you with ideas, also www.alldata.com, the Chilton manual, and Craftsman tools, without them I would have been doomed to walking long ago.
Most of the items replaced here are wear items and would fail in any car, American or Foreign. My Tempo has had none of these failures. The A/C still cools very well after 13 years, the transmission shifts flawlessly and the car starts on the first try. I have had to replace many hoses and gaskets and will be getting new shocks and struts and exhaust system next week. Every time I go to trade my Tempo in, any car I test drive does not measure up. Yes, the Tempo is basic transportation, but that leaves much less to go wrong with it.
My Grandmother bought one of these gems, without first consulting me, her mechanic. What was I going to say to her? Oh well... I just rolled up my sleeves and fixed it every-time it broke down. Which was about once a month for 3 years. These cars are the epitome of JUNK! I loath Tempo's and Topaz's! That being said, I can now dismantle one of these with my eye's closed and one hand held behind my back. Oh, and my advice to those people who have these. WHEN you replace a part - keep the receipt, because chances are, you'll be replacing that part again and again, and again... I wish all Tempo and Topaz owners well... I really do...
I have two of these vehicles. A 1992 and a 1994. The 1992 has 235,000 miles with nothing more than normal wear items. The 1994 has never had anything replaced except a tie rod end and brake pads/shoes. It still has the original exhaust at 129,000 miles. Have owned both cars since new. For $8,000 and $9,500 respectively I cannot complain.
Mine just turned 40000 miles. It was passed on to me after my mom died in 05 when it had 29000. I have done a lot of maintenance on it, since it sat and wasn't used much. It is loud, it is slow, it is not fuel efficient. But it will start every time and after 14 years, the original A/C still freezes you out. Long live the Tempo!!!
* Knock on wood * It's honestly not normal. With routine maintenance Honda and Toyota cars of this vintage will go to at least 180k miles with 1 or 2 problems. Not the dozens that this guy has.
For instance my 1993 Acura Legend had a mild ignition problem that is fairly common. But other than routine maintenance that's been it.
Though in the Tempos defense, the previous owner of the car when this guy acquired it might not have done the proper routine maintenance. Like if you don't change the fuel filters that could definitely cause the fuel pump to fail. And if you never flush the coolant that could cause the water pump to fail.
That is where the Japanese excel IMO. They over design their parts. Like you can get away with not changing a fuel filter for 150k miles and it won't run optimally but it won't die either.
Whereas in an American car if you do that many major parts will fail. If you went 150k miles on one fuel filter you're looking at major engine troubles.
That's why without detailed service records I would never buy a used car, especially an American used car.
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