Comments: 1-15, 16-30, 31-45, 46-60, 61-75, 76-90, 91-105, 106-120, 121-135, 136-150, 151-165, 166-180, 181-182
I have a 2000 Concorde LXi and most of the problems I had except the engine, since it is the 3.2 it seems fine with now 91K on it. What I only saw one blurb on this was the ignition key. I just recently put the 4th one in this car, and we don't even have a lot of weight on the key chain. Bad news when this happens when my wife is out with my two young children in the middle of a Chicago winter and she goes to start the car leaving some store and the key will not turn! This is my first Chrysler product and my LAST! Nice looking and riding car, but all sorts of problems. Now the lights are flickering again, hate whent hsi happens at night driving as the headlights go on and off.
I have a '99 Intrepid with so many of the same problems listed:
1. driver's side window doesn't stay in its track.
2. leaks oil.
3. one of the radiator fans won't cut on.
4. A/C went out this summer (again)!
5. now the battery is about to die and I have no way to put on a new one, but to take it to a shop since its on the bottom of this low-profile car.
6. check engine light is on - too scared to check it out.
Just hoping it holds together until I can afford a newer and less troublesome car.
Wow, I found this site while googling to find out why my temp overheat gauge lights up when the heater stops blowing in my 1995 dodge intrepid!
My car also:
"drinks" oil and every other fluid faster than it uses gas!
All (yes all) gauges stick when I turn the car on unless I wait at least 15 seconds before putting the car in gear! wtf?!
My driver side window is off track and I can't close it completely or open it all the way... sometimes I can get it down far enough to use the drive thru at d.d...i have to test it before I decide to go in or drive and let me tell you that's a pain since I have to get the 5 and 2 year old out of their car seat (usually requires redressing the 2 year old)
And last, but not least... the car started over heating last week and we replaced the fan... and now it overheats again, but this time it happens when the heater in the car stops blowing (which really freakin bites at 4:30 in the morning and its cold because I CANT CLOSE MY WINDOW!!!!!!!)
This car goes right in the category of cars I will never buy again... right with that little ford escort I bought way back in the day...
I too was relieved to find out that I wasn't an irresponsible car-owner. Thought I was nuts when so many things started going wrong.
* Bought this car 4 years ago with only 10,000 miles on it. Almost immediately had problems with rear passenger window motor not working. Under warranty, and had it replaced at least 3 times! They blamed it on the motors coming from overseas!
* All interior door frames are busted where the screws hold it to the main door. I "fixed" it by using plastic washers to help hold the screws on. I still need to re-"fix" them occasionally as the door frame continues to break away. Eventually I'll run out of door frame to hold my plastic washers on.
* Drivers side window is out of its track. Am still able to close it by sticking my hand in it and holding it in place until it gets almost to the top, but have to finish it with the door open. Really a problem when I'm at the drive-thru!
* Drivers and rear passenger door were getting stuck where the interior door frame was catching on the rubber gasket. Used clear packing tape to smooth down the torn rubber, so they stopped catching.
* Engine blew summer before last. Replaced with a rebuilt, but still sunk $4500 in this one. Already burning oil.
* No A/C for the last 2 summers--really crummy in the Kansas heat! A belt busted, and when it flew off, it sheared the head off the bolt for the belt tensioner. Now the only way they can replace the belt for the compressor is to take the radiator out, drill around the headless bolt, and put a new bolt in for the belt tensioner. Can't afford $200 for a lousy belt!
* Found this site by looking up questions on a new thermostat. I no longer have any warm air coming out of the heater! Really a problem since it was 30 this a.m. Now there's no heat and no A/C!
I bought a 99' Dodge Intrepid ES (3.2) of my aunt this past summer. She was getting a new car so said she'd sell me her's for $2000, with 107 500 miles on it... The miles were a bit higher than I would have liked, but I needed a car, and wasn't going to be able to afford anything more than $2000.
I knew when I bought it off her that the passenger window fell out of the track, I had no problem with that. I also knew the AC didn't work, again not a big deal, I usually drive with the windows down anyway.
Well, one day I'm driving down the freeway, with my drivers window down and it starts to rain... I was a little surprised when I went to put my window up and it went up on an angle... So now both the drivers and passenger's windows are broken, but I don't have the money to get them fixed.
Now that the colder weather is here, I need to defrost my windows in the morning, except that when I turn the heat on, it smells like dirty feet, to the point where I can't stomach it, and the smell won't go away. I am taking the car in on Wednesday to find out what the problem is... But I have been informed that it may be the evaporator, which means the dash will have to come out...great...
Couple of other things that have gone wrong since June...
- the lights behind the temp. control don't work
- the overhead lights, in the middle at the front, don't work
- the trunk slams shut, not to mention the release doesn't work
- the drivers seat can no longer adjust (powered & broken)
- the rear doors both stick and don't close unless slammed.
I only bought this car because it was convenient at the time, but the next car I purchase will not be a Dodge...
I also have a 99 intrepid 2.7. I found out about the engine exactly 1 year after I bought the car in August of 04. It blew while I was on the highway. I am currently in a class action against chrysler for this.
Other problems with this car.
-speed sensors went out $18, easy fix
-drivers side window off track, thought I was the only 1
-no more A/C, cut the belt instead of replacing it
-new struts and tie-rods at 80,000
-my brakes now squeak all the time even though I just had them replaced in July for the same reason
-interior lights come on and off when they please
-just started having a problem with the car starting, then stalling, then wait a few minutes, then starting again... although as soon as I put it in gear, the vibration stops
-had a remote-start installed 2 years ago, worked twice, dealer put two new ones in, figured it was something with the car that won't allow this to work
...I love Dodge, always have, but this car just sucks.
Show2time@hotmail.com.
The 2.7 oil light flicker is a know issue with these car if you have this just go to your locale dealer and they can fix it or you can get the part and do it your self. Here you go there is a TSB out on this it # is 08-36-99 Part needed to do the fix is # 5017800AA it a 02 hour repair per the TSB and all you have to do is install a Terminal/ Wire/ Vent This has been done on my 99 and the light has not been on since.
I just recently bought a used 98 Chrysler Intrepid under a year ago anyway and unfortunately no one told me this was a lemon!
Since I bought the car I have had to replace the battery, within the first two weeks owning it... I dismissed this thinking who knows how long the car was sitting and if it really just needed a new battery. Then my car started chugging and had a really rough idle... well came back that it was a EGR valve, I fixed that for about 300$. (the problem didn't go away!) A month later the light came on again and this time it was a fuel injector (sixth one... another 300$). After that my car wouldn't start after a long commute unless I slammed the hood then it would fire right up. This told me it must of been a loose connection and sure enough when they replaced the engine (Oh yes did I mention a new engine in it and yes a 2.7) they must of pulled some wires and screwed the crank censor on it. That ended up being a 450$ job. Let's see after that I started leaking coolant and the rad went that ended up costing me 800$ probably more totally unexpected. Thank god I didn't let it overheat cuz that coulda costed me tons of problems. Now the latest problem, my car decided to blow white heavy smoke which smelt like coolant out of the exhaust... everyone said it was the head gasket and it wasn't worth repairing, but mysteriously the problem has stopped and I'm not leaking any coolant nor is my car overheating... ooooh spooky! Turns out I had to replace my intake gaskets though cuz there was a vacuum seal leak which was causing the car to have 0 air intake while idling and it made it idle very high. Now I'm wondering if because of the gaskets moisture got into the manifold and caused it to leak that way?? If anyone has an idea please post it! So other than all the engine problems I've had my car is in great shape... no problems with windows or doors, but my a/c doesn't work and my heat only works on high! My car does have over 300,000ks on it, but it is a new engine so this kinda baffles me, I could understand if it was all body and things that go over time, but it all seems to be censors and things that shouldn't go on a car. I'll tell ya though I'm definitely not buying another Dodge AGAIN!
I have a 1999 Dodge Intrepid with about 110K on its new engine (yes, the engine blew three months after buying the car), and around 175K total miles. Has anyone ever had the computer reflashed on their Intrepid, and if so, did it help or not help with some of the problems that have been listed in this blog (ie - lights flickering, idling issues, etc)? My mechanic (not Dodge/Chrysler affiliated in any way) thought I might want to have this done, as my check engine light keeps coming on and off for apparently no reason. The last time it did, it was showing error codes that he didn't think were even related to my car. Thanks for your help.
I am glad I found this site. I purchased a 2004 Dodge Intrepid in 2004, it wasn't new, but only had 10,000 miles on it. Everything has worked out well until about a month ago. Was driving and the car stalled and CEL came on. Took it to Advanced and turned out to be a $30.00 02sensor. It has been about 4 weeks and today, the CEL came on again. Took it back to Advanced and found out now it's a p0700 Trans Control System Malfunction.??? What should I do? Take it to a shop? A dealer? How do I really know what it is that needs to be replaced? I am going to try to be smart about this one and try not to get taken to the bank. The first mistake was buying the car, I don't want to make a second mistake, especially if it is something that will be really cheap to fix. Thanks in advance for any info you can give.
Curtis
curtist17@yahoo.com.
I purchased my 1999 Dodge Intrepid 3.2 liter in 2005. The problems I thought were minimal compared to having tranny and motor problems. Just to let the public know, I have had the following problems:
(1) Wheel bearings replaced
(2) Tie rods replaced
(3) Air conditioner went out
(4) Constantly leaks radiation fluid, but was found to have not leaks
(5) Left me stranded this weekend because of something I don't know yet, but it is related to fuel pump or some type of senor
(6) The windows are all stuck in the up position and the driver side is off track. I have replaced the motors twice.
(7) The doors get stuck
(8) The trunk slams shut
(9) The passenger seat bolt needs replacing.
(10) I too, had the back smell from the air conditioner
(11) I've had to replace the brakes several times
(12) On occasion the internal lights flicker
(13) The car would completely shut down because they said the battery cable was plastic, so I replaced with metal
(14) The ignition won't turn and will stick. Looked on another website and found out what to do and that works.
I will never by a Dodge again.
I presently own a 2003 Dodge Intrepid that my wife and I bought in 2005 with about 42,000 miles on it. This car has 67,000 miles at present. This is a list of everything that has been done on the car.
1. Replaced brake pads at all four wheels, rotors on the front, and a caliper on the left front side. Use Mo par brake pads as after market ones will squeak.
2. December 2005, at 47,770 miles, the oil light came on and I took the car to the dealer. They said the engine had to be replaced and did it under warranty. I was out of town when the oil light came on, and quickly went off, and drove 90 miles to get the car home. I use synthetic oil in this car and change the oil every 4000 miles.
3. March 2006, cooling fans squeaked when turned manually. Replaced both motors.
4. May 2006, A/C stopped cooling, added refrigerant to the car, which promptly leaked out into dash. I replaced the evaporator.
5. July 2006, the car overheated because the cooling system got an air pocket. This became a recurring problem until I replaced the overflow tank sometime in early 2007. Replaced the hoses around this time too.
6. December 2007, Radio and ignition lock failed. I replaced both with new ones.
7. March 2008, 66,800 miles, both headlight assemblies cracked and letting water getting in, replaced at my own expense at $440 for the pair.
8. March 2008 67,100 miles. The brake master cylinder leaked into the booster, both are destroyed and I can't drive the car until the parts come in. This is the most frustrating because of the new economy. You almost have to replace part before they break if you want to keep your car on the road.
The master cylinder was $100 and so was the booster. In addition, I had to order a clip from the Dodge dealer that holds the booster rod to the brake pedal.
This cost about $5, but takes 3 days to get here from Kansas.
I can see the engine failing due to neglect from the last owner, but I've never had to change master cylinder, let alone a brake booster on a car with less than 70,000 miles on it. I've been particular about changing the brake fluid as well, and from past experience, few owners do or have this done until the system has a failure.
The car has been great on gas and has a decent amount of room. Most of the stuff was under service contract except for what I've indicated. I'm probably going to get a van next time and it will be a Ford.
I have a 99 dodge intrepid which I bought in 2005 jan (60,000 miles). It has been 2 years and the car has its share of problems. Unfortunately I didn't check its reviews before buying the car. BIG MISTAKE. As of today the car is 100,000 miles and I don't know when it will die on me.
Here are the list of problems
1) AC went out 4 months after I bought (think dealer must have filled the refrigerant).
2) Motor oil just disappears from the car and no indicator is displayed even when there is less /no motor oil.
3) Found metal shavings in the oil filter.
4) One of the speakers doesn't work
5) Get a mild electric shock when touching the door. Not sure if it has anything to do with wiring problems.
Yesterday I found a major leakage in the oil and gave it to firestone for checking. They said someone used an oversized plug to connect "something" to oil pan and so I have to replace the oil pan which will cost be 339$.
Car has a really messy engine and has lots of problems. I have convinced myself that the car will die on me and I will have to buy a new one. So I'm just waiting for the day it stops altogether..
We bought our 1999 ES in 2001 with 19K miles, and have been very pleased overall. 1 trans speed sensor and 1 set of rotors. we currently have 118K and are looking to replace to stay ahead of the curve. Based on comparisons to friends and their cars, no real issues, 7 years, almost 100,000 miles... cannot complain. hope we are this lucky with the next car we choose, we will look at Dodge again, a lot has changed I last shopped, that is for sure.
I bought my 1999 Dodge Intrepid (2.7) back in July 06 with I think 150,000 miles. Not sure if that was a bright idea or not. There were some thing wrong with the car when I bought it, so I got 500 off the car which I thought was a good deal.
Well the A/C wasn't working when I bought the car and was supposed to be fixed. When it was the time to use the A/C I realized it had not been fixed. Also, the car "mists" when driving (if you you know what I mean). This is why I got the 500 off to get that fixed; but about a month after I had the car it died on me on my way to work. I had it towed and found out the the A/C belt and Alternator belt broke on it. Took about 500 to fix that.
Maybe 1-2 months after I had that fix got ready to go to work and car wouldn't start. Thought it was the battery but it turned out it was the Alternator. So I had that replaced for another 500. (Still haven't got the "misting" problem fixed) It had been doing fine until about a week ago when it over heated and I heard a loud pop while I was sitting at a restaurant drive-thru. I had it towed to a shop and it was the Thermostat holding. Cost 300 to fix that.
Well not even a week went by when my car died on me again then restarted then died then restarted. WTF! I took it in and the cooling fans don't work on it. So this Friday I am taking it in again to have those repaired which is going to cost me another 200 dollars. I'm hoping after this I'm not going to have much more problems, but I am frightened reading all the other post. Most of them I'm reading I see that you are having problems with 100,00 miles or less. Now my car has 165,000. So I don't know if that's a good thing or a bad thing? Maybe the person before me got rid of it because of problems that might have been there before?
If anyone knows why my car might be "misting" while driving if you could email me at sassyann2002@hotmail.com it would be greatly appreciated. I do like this car, I just don't like all the stuff that is going wrong with it. I probably won't be buying another one for a very long time.