1999 Mazda Protege DX from North America - Comments

I've had m Mazda protege 99 DX for around a year now and I've had the same problems, but I found out that the jumping and poor gas millage in my Mazda was caused by a coil pack and when it went it caused the spark plug to go I love the car to death, but it keep ripping belts off of the pulleys and keeps needing to go to the shop about every mont for something new each time first car needed spark plugs then a coil pack then it needed to have several tune ups done on the car and the car only has 107,000 miles on it and they say the car will last forever, but I don't think it will last another 6 months.

I own a 2000 protege 1.6 litre with 480,000 km (300,000 miles) and I use the car for delivery purpose.

Problems with flashing "O/D Off" light, and transmission shifting into 3rd or 2nd gear happen because the car's computer is switching into "safe" mode, like your home computer might in a problem situation. I solved the problem temporarily by checking the tranny oil level, and removing about a quart. A year later the problem returned. This time I had a free diagnosis (you have to determine if the problem is mechanical or electrical) and it turned out to be the T.P. sensor. Cost $200 but works perfectly now.

Okay, I have a 99 LX protege. Only has 49K. My check engine light also came on at about 36K.Ignored it until my car started bucking. It was intermitten, but started getting worse. Mazda seriously needs to look into this. Thought it was the MAF, but was told that my car wasn't covered under ext warrany on the MAF (they said since I bought the car in Cal. (Cal emissions) it wasn't covered. HUH???!!!

ANYWAY, just took it to a mechanic, had tune up and TPS replaced. So far so good. BUT after reading above I'm still alittle worried. I think ever since the Ford/Mazda merge their quality has completely gone. I owed a 323 previously and never had these problems. If Mazda doesn't address this problem they are going to lose a lot of loyal Mazda owners. If I have anymore problems- TOYOTA here I come.

I was thinking of buying an OBDll Scan tool (for '96 and up vehicles) which usually sell for about $100. That way I can keep an eye on that "check engine" light that comes on from time to time. Anyone know if there are any problems or other information that could help?

I'm (somewhat) comforted to read all the previous comments regarding the check engine light problem in the Mazda Protege. I have a 1995 Protege LX with over 185,000 miles on it. The check engine light problem didn't become very frequent until a few years ago. The first time it happened, I took it to my local Mazda dealership, who diagnosed the problem as a bad air intake boot. That cost about $130 to fix and the check engine light didn't come on for over a year.

The next time it happened, I took it to an independent mechanic, who diagnosed the problem to be a bad sensor, which was replaced, and the check engine light was off for about six months.

When the check engine light went on again, I took it back to the same mechanic, who said that the car needed a major tune-up (replacing the spark plugs and wires). The check engine light was reset and stayed off for a few months.

When the check engine light came on yet again, the mechanic couldn't find a problem after running a diagnostic check, so he just reset the check engine light.

Just this afternoon, while I was driving home from work, (you guessed it) the check engine light came on. The car is running fine otherwise. I've decided that I'm just going to let the light glow, as long as the car runs fine. I'll have it looked at the next time I bring the car in for service. It's just too bad that this is a continuing problem, because other than that, the car has been VERY reliable. Based on this experience, however, in all likelihood, my next car won't be a Mazda.

The reason I bought a Mazda in the first place, was the price, and its reputation with quality and durability. Toyota and Honda I find are 10 % more expensive than Mazda.

My previous cars, oldest to current: Tercel, Celica, Civic, Suzuki Swift, Mazda B2200, and Protege.

Suzuki was the cheapest in price, quality, and durability.

Toyota I found the most refined in ride, and comes in second in reliability. Honda was somewhere in between.

My best experience was the Mazda pickup, for value, for most reliable, and durable. And that's what made me by the protege.

Its main weakness is that check engine light problem.

Besides that, it's the 2nd best vehicle I've ever had.

I purchased a 1999 Protege new which now has about 63,000 miles on it, and I have only had 4 problems over the past 7 years:

1.) P0420 - catalyst system below efficiency

2.) P0171 - system too lean. These two messages seem to come and go. I'm currently investigating the problem. After reading all your comments, it sounds like the Mass Air Flow sensor needs to be cleaned, or an O2 sensor (bank 1) needs to be replaced. I'm also considering changing the fuel filter while I'm at it, and checking the vacuum/hoses for proper seal. I'm not sure why else there would be too much oxygen in the exhaust? Hopefully this is not a more expensive problem like the catalytic converter.

3.) Heat shield. Comes loose and makes a terrible rattling noise, but is simple to fix (just retighten it).

4.) Tires. I've gone through 2 sets of tires in 60K, and I'm not driving on bad roads. Perhaps I just have bad luck.

I recommend everyone purchase an ODB2 reader, you can find a decent one for $40-50 that will let you read/delete the CEL messages yourself. Or just stop in at any mechanic or oil change place to find out what the message is, then research it on the internet (like we're all doing now). Taking it to the dealer is probably a last resort because unless you have a major problem, it's usually unnecessary and will be the most expensive repair option.

I've experience no drivability issues with the P0420 and P0171 errors. It's probably some combination of low fuel pressure (dirty filter?), sensors (MAF/O2), or carbon buildup. If I find a root cause this weekend, I'll post again.

Anybody familiar with P0106 : Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Range/Performance problem?

I have the check engine light on constantly, but it sometimes disappears for hours at a time. The car runs perfectly- smooth as can be.

I have removed the EGR valve, solenoid, and booster. Lubricated and cleaned all attachments where air would pass through. The hardest to clean was where the EGR valve is attached to, the manifold, and there's a small 2-inch tube sticking up vertically. I had to drill through to clean the build-up of carbon.

I tried going to different mechanics, even an electrical, but all they want to do is replace parts.

I figure, if the check engine light goes off and on, then the parts must still be okay. Otherwise it would stay on all the time.

But the big question is, has anyone experienced the thumping when you are going at mid speed on the highway??? You are going and it feels like you are going to 1rst gear (this is on an automatic) for a split second and then it goes back. The car does not reve, but it feels like it brakes all of a sudden.

This is a 1999 protege dx. Happens maybe 3 times a year. Check Engine light is always on due to an EGR Valve. Car runs amazing!

Re:Problem with '99 Protege DX, travelling on highway, "thumping, seems to go into 1st gear"

I've had that problem before. In my experience there

three possibilities.

1) Transmission fluid is over-filled.

2) Air hose is cracked, air is leaking

3) TPS is malfunctioning.

1) I like to check the tranny fluid after about an hour of driving to make sure it's hot enough (I know you can check it when it's cold too). Keep in mind that it's better to have a little LESS fluid than a little more.

2) Remove the air hose. There's only 2 screws on those circular clamps that hold it in place (just ease the wires and things off the top). Should take you about 5- 10 minutes tops. Inspect for any cracks. If cracked, you can use duct tape as a temporary measure. A brand new air hose costs about $ 40 depending where you live.

If there is air escaping, then it's screwing up the TPS or the PCM. And if you leave the problem long enough you will have to change the TPS.

3) TPS... Get a scan done, and if the Throttle Position Sensor needs to be changed, you can find one used for about $ 100. Changing it is very easy. It's located where the air hose attaches onto the engine. Again it's a 10 minute job.

I have a 1999 protege, with 105k miles. Recently, the car has started to idle roughly, particularly when it first starts up. It runs fine when it's moving around. Rough idling causes the car to die about 10% of the time after startup.

The infamous check engine light has been on for a long time (over 1 year). Last time I had it looked at, it was the "running lean" error, so I figured as long as it ran well, no reason to get worked up about it. I have a suspicion that a sensor is bad now, however. Any thoughts?

That check engine light continues to haunt me.

I managed to get rid of the light for about 4 days, by removing the EGR valve and cleaning it thoroughly.

But now, alas, it has returned.

I'm now thinking maybe the intake manifold should be cleaned out? Big bucks for that. Or is it some other electronic sensor/device that is malfunctioning?

Replying to : '99 protege with 105k miles; rough idle and car dies sometimes.

Have you checked the "coolant sensor" yet?

Here's a few of the symptoms: Poor cold idle, stalling, cold hesitation, poor fuel mileage, rich mixture, etc.

I bought a used '98 Mazda Protege about 3 years ago with 100k miles. Has been very reliable. About a year after purchase the check engine light came on. Went to AutoZone and had the codes read and was told it was a gas cap issue (gas cap was not on tight enough). After adjusting the cap, the light went away for a while. The light would come on and go off intermittently and the only thing I could figure was it had to do with a change in the weather (on dry days, no light, on wet/humid days, light came on).

I live in Austin, TX where the state vehicle inspection was just changed to include auto emissions testing. They will not pass you if the check engine light is on. Needless to say, I had to take it to a mechanic where I was told the O2 sensor and EGR valve needed to be replaced. Was also told these parts had to be ordered from the dealership and cost ~$900. Bit the bullet and had the work done. The light stayed off for one day. Took it back the mechanic and had him perform the inspection. Next year, when I have to inspect the car again, I have to go back to this mechanic to have it inspected because he is familiar with my "special" car.

Someone has suggested the light is a ruse to get me to take the car to the dealership (it comes on automatically at 100k/120k miles).

Conspiracy theories aside, I wish I knew what to do. I like the car, but can't afford to spend $1200/year to have the car inspected.

Well, I'm not sure if it's a ruse or not, but the check engine light goes on about every 100K, because it's programmed to do so. Many auto-makers specify that the timing belt should be changed every ~100K. But anyone that has long-term experience with vehicles, will tell you that's not true at all. I had another Mazda that lasted about 700K, and I only changed the belt once, at about 500K. Since The Protege is the "non-interference" type engine, you can wait for the belt to snap and then replace the belt (just make sure you have a cell phone, and belong to an auto-club).

I don't know if it will help you or not, but you know that if you disconnect the battery, for over 2 minutes, that will reset the check engine light.

Depending on your car's problem, the light will remain off from 1 hour to a few days.