2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo from North America - Comments

I have a 99 JGC 4x4, I had the same problem with brake lights as well, got that fixed. Knock on wood, I haven't had the duck sounds with the door locks. But here's a problem that I haven't heard yet. My gages, power windows, power mirrors, power locks, security system, A/C, and overhead monitor, don't work. I took it to the dealer, they said it was a bad ground battery cable, had it replaced. Power window DS, had a broke wire, had that fix. Service man called to say it was all fixed, for $737.26 and paid the bill. I checked it out and still had the same problems. They kept my car for 3 more days, 4 techs, and 2 calls to Chrysler. They said you have 2 options, will give you a special price on a new jeep, dah!! or refund your money for the repair, I took the refund. They said, this is problem that only happens in states where it gets hot, go figure. they had no idea what the problem was. Any one having this problem don't take it to the dealer unless you get a money back guarantee. Please if anyone knows of someone who can offer advice on repairs have them contact me @ jrossjeep@hotmail. Good luck to all unhappy jeep owners.

I have the same problem with my 2000 jeep cherokee tail light. also had the same growling noise with the door locks. now my dome lights come on when driving down the road for a couple minutes than go out.

Plbean1@hotmail.com.

I have a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee and I've been experiencing some of the same problems as well. Last summer, both front window regulators broke and the front windows fell in. I had one replaced at the dealership... not worth it by the way. I saved about $150 just putting the other in myself (it's a two person job). There are websites you can go to find rebulit ones and how to install them. It seems to be working fine so far, but I suspect I'll have to replace the rear ones eventually. I also had to replace a solenoid valve in the transmission. Since I have no clue about tearing apart my transmission, I let Jeep do it for about $700. That was fun.

As for the tail light, it is not a circuit board problem, at least in my case. A friend of mine (electrician) noticed that when my driving lights were on, my left brake light would go out when I stepped on the brake pedal. He suggested there was a faulty ground. Sure enough, he was right. I did some research and found out that the heat from the light bulb warps the plastic ring support for the ground contact inside the tail light assembly. With the plastic melted, the ground contact is pressed further down and separates from the bulb contact.

I fixed it myself and it took about 15 minutes. All I did was remove the tail light assembly as if replacing a bulb, and I disconnected the wire harness for easier access by unlocking the red tab. Then you can take the bulb socket out and you'll notice three metal contacts on the plastic rim inside the tail light assembly. You'll also notice that the contact near the top away from the other two is pressed into the melted plastic. All I did was use a small flathead screw driver used for glasses to very carefully pry up the contact. I just wedged a small piece of plastic under the contact to raise it up. This should fix the brake light issue.

2000 jcl. passenger side door quack. I bought the harada dla-01 door lock actuator that some people said replaced the original with little changes. I am either not seeing it or they were wrong. I took the door lock out of the door and it seems to be made one piece or is the actuator elsewhere and I'm not seeing it.

Does anyone have pics on replacing with one of these harada aftermarket jobs?

I had the same brake light problem with my 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee. All was fine without the lights on.

However, when I turned the lights on, the middle brake light came and stayed on. When pressing the brake, the rear lights went totally dark and the middle (high) brake light intensified.

I found the solution here: I pressed the contacts in the rear/brake light socket and voila: the whole thing worked properly.

I had previously replaced the brake switch, cleaned contacts, talked to people at AutoZone and others. Nothing worked until the above simple solution took about one minute per side!

Thanks for the help.

Chris.

My wife and I own a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee. She had the problem with her left rear door "quacking" when it locked.

It cost $200 or $300 to fix.

Also had the left tail light problem too. Everything is fine with no headlights, but when you have headlights on and step on the brakes, the left light goes out.

I followed the post from Jan 1 2005 and fixed it in about 10 minutes. Ultimately the ground contact in the tail light assembly gets pushed back and doesn't make good enough contact. I just pulled it forward so it was flush with the rim and the other contacts. Problem solved!

Because of the problems I have encountered with my 2000 Grand Cherokee, I will never purchase another Chrysler product again. The fact that just about every owner of the same vehicle has had all of the same problems, shows I just didn't get a lemon, but rather a victim of Chrysler's poor build quality.

That being said, here is a list of SOME of the problems I encountered, as did most of you.

Brake light assembly (had to replace whole assembly)

Infinity tweeter replaced

Door weather stripping (first driver side replaced, month later passenger side)

6 disc CD changer (still not working correctly)

Door lock Mechanism (first rear hatch replaced, now driver side is acting up)

Various Leaks (3 times so far)

Headlamp discoloration.

These are the ones I can remember.

My last vehicle, a Ford Taurus, while not as good looking was in 1 time in 6 years for a broken bracket that the dealer welded at no charge. That was it.

1998 JGCL Yeah - most of the above. Have replaced all of my door lock actuators. Started at driver door and moved around the truck till all were replaced. Now on my second cycle. Driver door again. My left side rear signal lamp problem stems from arching of the bulb contact. Used dielectric grease. Speed sencore, transmission surges after engine off, etc. etc. Warranty replaced rotors after 3 days of ownership.

Wish someone would make a better lock!

This is a beauty site. I have ~140k on my 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4 and have experienced many of these problems throughout the years.

The thing has eaten brake rotors like its it's job. I got some rotors from frozenrotors.com which lasted longer, but they ended up warping too. I have just kind of learned to live with it.

I have fixed or replaced about 1/2 dozen window regulators. Most of the time they freeze up which I eventually found I could fix by taking apart the motor and cleaning and re-greasing it. Sometimes though the plastic tab breaks off where the cable connects to. I look for good deals on ebay for the regulators.

I had done the fuel pump fix a while ago which fixed the long cranking for a while, but it's back. Just living with that too.

My AC was not getting too cold and I realized that the electric radiator fan was not working. Fixed that and a leaky water pump at the same time. That was a neat job, not!

At ~120k it started shifting funny and would trip a check engine light when you passed a certain MPH. Took it to Advanced Auto to read the code and it turned out it was my vehicle speed sensor, but this was sort of my fault because I hadn't changed the tranny fluid in so long that iron filings had built up on the sensor's magnet preventing it from sensing the reluctor wheel. :)

When I changed the oil the other day I noticed both CV joint boots were split. Can't say this is unusual for a vehicle with this much mileage. I'm undecided yet as to whether to replace the axles or just get new boots and grease.

The reason I found this site was because I got pulled over for a taillight out sometime back. I forgot about it until I went in for an inspection last week. I normally do 99% of auto repair myself, but I figured they couldn't mess anything up replacing a bulb. It took a while and when I asked what was going on they said that replacing the bulb didn't do it, that they had to replace a fuse too. I called BS since I knew that each taillight was not on it's own fuse, but I let it slide because they only charged me $15. Last night, less than a week after the inspection the Jeep died going down the road. Pulled over and it would crank fine, but would not start. Had my buddy tow me home since I was only ~1/2 mile away and when we got there we noticed that the third brake light was on when the brakes were not depressed and when I did press the brake, all three lights went out and took a long time to come back on when the pedal was lifted. So I guess I will take the tail lights apart and pry out the ground connector as mentioned a few times here. Also when we got home the Jeep started right up again. I don't think the lights are related to the no start condition, but have also found here that the crank position sensor tends to short out which would definitely do this so I'll try replacing that since it's an easy and cheap fix. I am hesitant to take the Jeep far from home now though. If I find it to be something else I'll check back in.

Thankfully I have not had any quacking door locks. No door lock problems at all (knock on wood). If I do I'll be retrofitting some universal actuators as I have not seen them for less than ~$75 each. As long as the drivetrain holds together I'm willing to fix all these problems that are more of a nuisance.

My 2000 Jeep GCL has had both brake light assemblies replaced, 2 door lock actuators and 2 window regulators, 2 rotors replaced. Now my latest issue: after leaving it at the airport for 2 days, I got in the Jeep, started it and hit the highway. On the way home I flashed my bright lights at a car with its lights off and all hell broke loose. The speedometer began to reel back and forth, the odometer began to flicker, and the brake and ABS indicator lights came on. When I got home, I turned the car off and attempted to restart it. There was no power at all, not even the interior lights when the doors are open, the power locks, etc. Battery has 12.5 volts, but no power to any systems. I haven't had much luck finding troubleshooting help on the internet so far. Maybe someone here can offer advice.

My 2000 JGC with only 65K miles has eaten brake rotors like a meat grinder. They were replaced twice under warranty and a third time about 12 months ago. Brakes are again getting rough!

I am having a problem with the interior lights not coming on when it is cold outside. If I slam the door open a closed a couple of times they will start to work. I believe its somewhere in the door switch, but they are not visable like the old time plunger switches. How do I begin to look where to fix this problem?

Just started with the quacking doors and now the pistons that hold up the lift gate and the hood don't do their job when its cold outside.

2000 jgc, this is my 4th jeep I have owned and will be my last. I have bought all my jeeps new and have had more problems with my 2000 than any other. My biggest problem with this jeep are my breaks. Have had many trips to the dealership for this. Warped rotors, replaced shoes and pads. Replaced three times under warranty and twice on my own. That was cheap...Ha. I only have 82,000k. The water pump went out at 40,000. Should have lasted twice that long. Tail light going out, and an occasional quacking on the door- locks. I have had all shocks replaced which stopped the front-end noise. Sounded like something loose. My most recent issue I have is when I put it in reverse to backup, it stalls, I give it a little gas and nothing. It obviously is not engaging. Put it back in park and try again and it works. Has anyone else had this problem. I'm worried my transmission is going out? Thanks! Rhonda.

Like many of the people listing their tail light and door lock problems, I too have a 2000 J.G.C. with the same issues.

I recently email Chrysler asking for a recall on this parts, since as a consumer I was feeling very frustrated that this company wasn't taking any responsibility whatsoever. I haven't had any response yet. But I still think that the more people that contact the company, the more chance we'll have to get a solution.

I invite anyone who feels the same way I do to contact the company by any of these different ways:

Telephone

1-800-853-1403

M-F 8:00AM - 8:00PM (EST)

Mail:

Chrysler LLC

P.O. Box 4639

Oak Ridge, TN 37831.

Or through their website www.chrysler.com/en/ (contact us link)

Thank you and good luck for all!

My 2000 JGC will not turn over. I have replaced the battery. I have all instrumentation and lighting. When I turn the key it just clicks. I have even tried starting it in neutral, but it won't turn over. It appears that all fuses are good. Please email any help to weeks192@msn.com.

I have an JGC Laredo 2000. My driver's door and rear's hatch lock haven't work for a while now. last few weeks, whenever I try to start my engine, it would start for few seconds and shut off. I live in the northeast, though it would be a cold weather problem. I went to pep-boys to get one of those full engine system cleaning thing, and added with a full tank of gas. That's seem to solved the problem for liked ONE day. Tonight, I stopped my car at the red light and the engine stall and shut off on me. When I restarted the engine, both of the speed odometer and RPM odometer kept staying at zero even-though I was driving. can anyone help me with this? PS: this will be the last JEEP or Chryslers product I will ever buy.

Thanks.