1997 Holden Commodore VT from Australia and New Zealand - Comments

Comments: 1-15, 16-30, 31-45, 46-57

5th Sep 2007, 06:05

I still own a 98 VT purchased in 99 and currently has +230000kms.

My auto kicked the biscuit at around 170,000kms. Couldnt reverse, and lost 2 of the forward gears (can't remember which ones. Cost me around $2300 for a rebiuld. One of the gears had its teeth completely shaved an I was told by the transmission repairers that it was a common occurrance with the VT due to the poor quality parts they use. In the rebiuld they used aftermarket parts that were more heavy duty then factory items.

Alternator Wiring Harness - Took the VT to have a new battery put in my key. They had dramas coding it and put it down to a faulty BCM module/card. approx $200 for a new BCM module. Take into account there was nothing wrong with the immobiliser before hand. In the end I allowed the work to go ahead. At the end of the day I receive a call from Holden saying the Alternator wiring harness was "completely burnt out" and needed replacing and needed my authority to go ahead and put a new one at the cost of +$500. I'm like hmmmmmm. Don't do anything until I see for myself in the morning. Next day I have a look and the "BURNT OUT WIRING" turned out to be just a slight discolouring on the insulation near the lug. I am an electrician by trade and have seen proper burnt out wiring and laughed when I saw what was supposed to be "burnt out wiring". At that stage I told them I want my car back, and they wouldn't give it back unless I signed a release saying that I was fully aware of the fault and that I couldnt hold that Holden Dealership responsible for anything that may occur. I signed it and took the VT home. It appeared the cable was really tight with the way the alternator was mounted. I Disconnected the lug and chopped the cable back to where the insulation was fine and re lugged it. I took the alternator off and repositioned the end shields so that the cable wouldn't be so tight. End of story.

Other issues

Power steering problems x 4

Way too frequently of not only changing out lamps for brake lights but also for headlights.

Poor quality plastics.

I'm in the process of selling the ole VT since I've purchased a new car. Its been a serviceable car and despite some of the major dramas it has been a good car for myself and family.

My only problem is the way I was held ransom by the holden service providers. A similar thing occurred when I owned a VL back in the day and I sincerely hope its not a standard practice for Holden Service providers to con their customers out of forking out unnecessary money. My advice is if they seek authorization for any unplanned work always have a look yourself or get a second opinion. Its for this reason that I will never pay for a Holden ever again.

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21st Sep 2007, 05:31

I have a 2000 VT Executive Series II.

I have owned it for the past 2 months and I have come across a few problems which are only minimal though very frustrating.

Handbrake warning light and sound consistently kicks in while turning corners, hitting the brake, going over a bump, you name it.

A/C lights don't light up, and the brakes squeak as well, it is not the pads though the squeaking comes on and off.

I have come across another problem which I haven't looked into because of work, but I have to keep refilling the power steering with a whole bottle of fluid once a week.

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23rd Sep 2007, 00:44

Hi.

I bought my 1999 VT Commodore Berlina in November 2006. I bought it with 130,000kms, and its now sitting roughly at 170,000. The previous owner kept it in perfect working order. Since I bought the car I have had several problems.

* 2 x Airbag Warning light issues. I took it back to a Holden dealer who reset it on both occasions, and said that there was no fault, it was just a common code problem.

* Power steering fluid leaks constantly. Before it was repaired I went through a bottle of fluid every month.

* The power window buttons failed, and needed to replace them.

* The boot leaks everytime it rains, or is wet. (I have a stock spoiler)

* My breaks constantly squeak.

* The plastic on the bottom back of the front seat (near where a rear passengers foot is) has buckled and come off, as has the front passenger side plastic.

* The velour seats constantly pill, no matter how much cleaning I do.

* The automated antenna has just broken, and will no longer go up or down. The motor still works for it, but the actual mast will not retract (even manually)

BUT

Overall I love this car to death. I am shocked at the power I have, and the pleasure this car is to drive. I will look at updating in the future, but for now, it serves its purpose.

I would still recommend the car to anyone, if your happy with the depreciation.

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3rd Oct 2007, 16:50

G'day all, sounds like it's hit or miss with the VT; I have had a mixed run with mine. It hasn't done 100,000 yet and the air/con packed it in, leaking onto the engine mount, and that needed replacing.

It has been back to service 10 times now for a strange shudder around 50-60kmh that you can feel on the auto trans shifter. I keep getting told that all they can do is pack some thing with grease?? It stops it for a week, then it's back again. Service dept keeps bluffing me I think, and puts a bandaid on it??

Heaps of rattles plastic bits broken here and there; shocks only need doing now @ 85000, but overall, so far it's not too bad.

It sounds like I will have fun after 100,000km's; going to stop using overdrive, it only kicks in at 70kmh, and I don't do 70 much.

Any hints on my shudder would be great.

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27th Nov 2007, 09:08

I purchased a 99 VT Acclaim in Jan 07. Only minor problems such as tyre wear (improved by camber kit). Recently I have started having trouble with a major water leaking problem. Left rear floor pan fills with water. I have located the problem as poor rubbers on the door. The rubber starting at the window level at the back end of the door is where water initially enters, before it travels down to the bottom of the door before flowing over the seal at the bottom of the door, flowing under the rear seat and onto the floor. New rubber may fix this. Not yet sure as yet to fit.

Problem with leaking boot. On the underside of the boot, along the bottom of the boot, you can find two small metal overlaps at the seam. These overlaps (one on each side) are blocked. If you drill a small hole through this soft seal, water that collects in the boot lid is able to run out onto the rear bumper whilst the lid is shut. A small amount of water will still remain in the boot, but it is dramatically reduced.

Cheers Andrew.

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28th Jan 2008, 02:40

My wifes vtII wagon could be doing a 100km and will just not go and slow downs to 60kms before taking off like nothings happened till it gets to 65km and that's it time after time it happens if she pulls over and and waits for 2 seconds its good again for awhile sometimes 10mins sometimes 10days the engine light comes on most of the time, but does not seem to be at the same time.

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13th Apr 2008, 02:08

I disagree completely with some comments (first comment) I have a 97 VT Commodore Executive. I have had no trouble with it except for the air con, which I have not had replaced yet..

Other than this, I give the car a bit of a flogging and it still runs very well. Tyre wear seems to be great, and brakes; have had them replaced two times... the car has a little over 270 000ks. My interior is in great condition, like brand new...

You obviously don't look after it well enough.

The VT is a great car for me

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9th May 2008, 00:07

Yeah, mate, um first of all my VT Commodore is 10 years old now and its interior is in mint condition, the tyres don't wear that fast at all. The rubbers are still good from 10 years ago, maybe it wouldn't have turned out the way it is if you didn't leave it in the sun all day and maybe lost some weight so the tyres and seat foam lasted longer. Yes the speaker grilles will break if you stick your shoe through them on the way out, perhaps you need some co-ordination training, and yes if you open the boot and it's raining guess what happens!! water gets in there!!! I reckon the problem is you and the way you treat the car...

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9th May 2008, 00:09

To the bloke three comments up, Don't DO DRUGS...

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17th May 2008, 21:43

H, I have a 1998 VT Executive sedan. It's a good car and I love it to death. Just recently my right back brake lamp went out, and I went to change it. Took off the two screws that are holding the light, but when I looked inside there are two clips that are locked in position. How do I take them off without breaking it? Any suggestions would be welcomed. Thank you.

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15th Jun 2008, 19:09

I've had my VT 99 Berlina 5.7 litre now for 5 years from 70000km and now just hitting 100000km over this time I've had the following problems.

Left steering bush

Cambelt

Power steering clips leak

Cats rattle

L/HrRear power window switch doesn't work

Drivers plastic side seater cover came off

LED display for temp gauge doesn't work.

The car is kept in the garage most of the time, and we only use it in the week-ends. I've been able to fix most of the problems, but a bit annoyed that the steering bush and cambelt need attention again, even though I had this problem done through Holden NZ. Apparently I got them to service the car at 80000km. After this the power steering fluid clip wasn't attached properly and leaked onto the cambelt, and started squeaking. Took it back only to get hit with another $400 bill for replacing the cambelt, so due to them servicing my car and then creating a problem later, and now this coming back to be dealt with again, I've lost total respect for any Holden service station.

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11th Jul 2008, 23:11

Hi all, I bought my 12/97 VT acclaim in May 04 with 107,000km on it. Currently has 177,000 on it from driving in town (not city) and highway including dirt roads. Some stuff written in the service manual (occasional services) when I bought it, but only one major thing of pads and plugs etc replaced at 60,000km.

Since then I have done an oil change every 5,000km (tops 7,500) using either Penrite HPR15 or Castrol GTX3, and also the general 40,000km service (air filter, fuel filter, plugs). Also did the coolant change.

Had the auto transmission looked at around 120,000km as service on it is due at 110,000km (found out later), but guy at Holden said no issues, though I thought they may have been trying to trick me so that I would need a new transmission at 140,000 or something, but at 177,000 I still have no problems with it.

Speaker covers - LH front cracked due to bottle of oil falling over on way home from shop :)

Leaking boot - drill holes through sealant in 2 points along edge (near metal joins), drastically reduces boot swimming!

No issues with tyre wear (I often run 32-34psi), having done 55,000km on current ones and still good tread left.

Brake squeal is occasional but annoying all the same. I have been informed by a mechanic friend (not Holden) that it is due to people braking too softly and a subsequent build up of dust. His solution, stand on brakes occasionally to remove build up. I want to replace pads soon just because it hasn't been done since I bought it (done 70,000km/4 years).

Fan belt replaced at 121,000 due to signs of fraying, but no major electrical faults that were not easily fixed. These included: rear dash brake light not working along with one rear - replaced a switch under dash near pedal.

ABS and Trac light remaining on at startup (only occasionally though) - turn key until lights come on, then go off (a few seconds) then turn key further to start engine. I have been told that this can also be due to cold weather and ABS trac unit not being ready :)

Throttle Positioning Switch (TPS) - thankfully didn't have to replace this as several hundred dollars. Turned out there was dust/bugs in mesh/metal filter (not a filter really just a bit of metal with holes through it) that is housed between the air filter box and the top of the engine. The air flow meter is housed behind this and if any slight bit of dust gets in there, it spits up the drivetrain light in the dash instrumentation and code errors at Holden. Also drive becomes sluggish and gear shifts are crappy if occurring at all. Answer is to clean this metal filter yourself when doing the air filter!

No issues with air con, steering or suspension, although I think it can be a bit floaty at times compared to dad's AU falcon, especially at speed on dirt roads.

Car has been a pleasure to drive and looking at keeping it for many more years.

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