2000 Nissan Maxima SE from North America - Comments

I would first like to say "Thanks" this forum was very helpful for me. I have a 2000 Nissan Maxima SE and my Service Engine Soon light came on about a month ago. This was the first time that my SES light had come on since I purchased the car brand new. I have a 106,000 miles on my car. My car continued to run great even after the SES light came on, so I kept driving my car. After reading the comments in this forum I disconnected the negative cable on my battery for 15 hours bought a new Gas Cap for $6.00 and a new Air Filter for $9.00. The next day I put on the New Gas Cap and Air Filter then I reconnected the negative cable back to the battery and my SES light was off and it has never come back on.

*Note: I found out what trigger my SES light to come on. I gave a friend a boost with some Jumper Cable because his car wouldn't start and that trigger my SES light. So from now on I will not give anymore boost to anyone.

To the comment on Feb. 1 about your daughter's car "bogging down". I had similar symptoms with my 2000 Maxima and after three weeks, my mechanic finally figured out that it was the Mass Air Flow unit. After replacing it, my car ran fine.

I've owned 3 Maxima's in 7 years because I love the car.

Unfortunately 2 in a row have been lemons. I bought my 2000 used in 2005 with 75K.

Problems with cold-start went on for over a year with no one being able to diagnose the problem. I would have to keep my foot on the gas until it was warmed up in order to avoid a stall. Eventually it got worse and was stalling in 55 degree weather as well. Engine light was always coming back on even after all O2 sensors and coils were changed.

**Take note: Recently found out it was a gasket on the upper intake (a $600 job).

It's one month later and the check engine light is back on. At 1st it seemed to be a tranny problem because it was skipping gears. Unfortunately it's not just the tranny computer. I'm waiting to hear the damage, but I'm officially through with Maxima's. I guess I'll have to find another favorite car... : (

WOW! Have read most of the 100+ comments and like some have stated, I feel somewhat better knowing that what I have experienced with my 2000 GXE (85K) is not uncommon. This car has experienced the stalling at idle, rough running in low RPMs until the engine heats up, and of course, the intermittent issue with the Check Engine light. It's back. Re-tightening the gas cap which did the trick about 6 months ago, did not remedy it. Other than the rough running on a cold start, no other performance issues. Haven't yet thrown the big bucks at the problem as others have, at least yet. I am amazed at the lack of responsibility Nissan has taken with these recurring issues. This is the first and last Nissan for me, and as others have said, my Hondas and Toyotas have never disappointed me like the Maxima. Just hope there's a market for this vehicle.

I have a 2001 Maxima SE. Last night my car stalled while driving and now won't stay started. I can't get it home and me being a woman I am very scared of mechanics. I have been ripped off in the past. I gave someone a jump start about a month ago and the SES light came on until I refueled then it turned off. But now my car left me stranded. Does anyone have any suggestions? I would appreciate it.

Sometimes if you car stalls on you, it could be myriad of problems, as noted on all the previous posts. That said, if the car won't start again after it stalls, give it some gas, about 1/4 throttle, and turn the ignition. Hold the throttle for maybe 10 seconds and see if the idle holds. If it does, you can drive off and find someone who can help you with the car.

I have a 2000 Maxima SE 5spd and do almost all my own work to the car. I have had a few problems, but none that a person with knowledge of modern day emissions and fuel delivery systems should have too many problems with. Here's a few things I've learned:

1. Loss of power / stalling - it is important to identify a loss of power as soon as possible. This is usually caused by a bad mass air flow sensor. You can order a new one on-line for ~$100. When you do, you will received the updated sensor and will need to have the ECU reprogrammed at the dealership to match up with the new part (about another $100). If you do not get the ECU updated to the new part#, you will get false oxygen sensor codes (P0430/P0420). It may be fine for a while, and you will instantly have the power back, but you will eventually get the oxygen sensor codes (again, trial and error). If you wait and drive the car as is (like I did for a while) it will run lean on fuel and cause the loss of power/stalling to get worse. If you run it like this for a while, the exhaust gasses will be much hotter than normal and can damage your catalytic converters and oxygen sensors, and that can be very costly. Spend the ~200 and have your car run like new again.

2. My coil packs were all replaced under an extended warranty after 1 went bad, and and I pointed out to the dealership the TSB that recommends all are replaced at the same time. The new coil packs do not have the same problems the original ones had.

3. The fuel filter assembly is located in the tank, which is accessible through a cover located under the rear seat. At 100,000, I replaced this. It was very dirty, cost ~40 at the dealership, and I did the swap in less than 1 hr. Caution!!! you are working with gasoline and gasoline fumes. Use only a brass or plastic punch to remove the retaining ring, and do all this outdoors with all the doors open and windows down to avoid a catastrophic event. I did this right before I replaced the MAF sensor and it greatly helped the stalling problem, until I realized it actually was the MAF that was bad.

These are the only key events I have had with the car, besides routine maintenance items. Otherwise, the car has run a great 125,000 miles and counting. If you let the local dealership do all the work for you and don't want to get your hands dirty, them be prepared for some large and greatly un-necessary bills.

Hi all I'm experiencing some some of the same problems, ie car stalling on cold start, low idle, and sometimes erratic idle at park. My car has 78k miles. Now I'm going to follow some of the suggestions above such as replace MAF, and clean IAC valve and throttle body.

Looking around the web it maybe that I might need a new ecu as well. I have read about the federal law stating that Nissan is suppose to replace that under warranty for 8yrs/80k miles (or else its $1000). Has anyone actually got Nissan to replace that under warranty? Also if I change all the parts using a different mechanic rather than the dealership, will they still cover the ecu under warranty if it is in fact true.

Thanks for all comments, the car has been very reliable up until this point.

March 11, 2007.

I have a 2000 Nissan Maxima and the SES light constantly stays on. At first, I was told it was the OC2 sensor that needed replacing. This did not fix the problem. Then I was told this was an emissions problem associated with the type of gas used. I have only used premium gas and the problem continues. Within 4 hours of having the computer reset, at a cost of $175.00, the SES light came back on. After reading the comments on this site, I am convinced this is another manufacturer rip off. This is my first and last Nissan.

I have a 99 Maxima with 117,000 miles.

On Saturday, the car died on me right on an exit ramp and luckily a police officer was nice enough to push me off the road. I opened the hood and couldn't believe how corroded the battery and cables were. I scraped them clean and tried to jump the battery and it did start, but would stall again after a few minutes and not start. It definitely needed a new battery and I replaced it and so far so good (only 20 miles later).

My question is - could it still have a bad alternator? On old/american cars, you could start the car and unhook the hot cable to the battery and if the alternator was good, it would still run. I tried this on my Maxima and it quit. Does this mean it needs a new alternator or does this test not work on more modern/foreign cars?

OK here is the solution to all of you that have a problem where your car stalls when its idling. I am going to try to do my best to explain it, sorry if its hard to understand. I have thought, from the comments posted here, that it would be one of the three problems.

1. Spark-plugs and the coils

2. MAF mass airflow filter

3. Oxygen sensor.

In the end I spent a whole day at my mechanics, and found out that the problem is a lot smaller. The is a "shutter" that lets oxygen into the sensor that has a stopping point that is controlled by this little screw. The screw is not going far enough to properly stop the shutter, so every time your engine is idling or is near that, that "shutter" goes back too far, which results in lack of oxygen going into the engine.

If you open the engine you will see the wires that are connected to the gas pedal, I don't know the proper names for these. Right near that is that "shutter" for oxygen. Again, I am very sorry that I am not putting it in right terms, if you know cars a bit you will figure it out, if not, have your friend or somebody who knows read this.

Also, if you are going to replace your spark-plugs your self, the front three are under the plastic cover that says V6 3000.

Coils, coils, coils. I don't know why someone has not taken Nissan to court on this issue. I have had Mazdas and Hondas and have never had problems like this.

I bought the Maxima 2000 in 2004 with 48K KM on the clock and have had various problems over that time. First the alternator at $700 (only Canadian dollars) and now I'm on my second failure of a coil, one week after replacing the first one. Why they didn't find it one week ago I'll never know. I guess the diagnostics weren't done properly. It should have shown two codes P0301 and this latest one P0303.Nissan should have done the right thing by issuing a recall in the first place. I guess they are hoping these problems will go away with time. Too bad Nissan I'm going back to a Honda next time and will convince everyone I know that Nissan does not stand behind their product.

I have an Infiniti that has had the stalling issue for the past 6 months. My family never had a problem with the car, but 3 months after I bought it from them I had my first stall in traffic. I've taken it to 2 mechanics and the dealership with no luck. The dealership denied ever hearing of such an issue even though Infiniti is owned by Nissan.

I found a mechanic who fixed my car and worked fine for 3 months before stalling again. I brought it in last week and he replaced the NOC sensor for around 475 with labor and parts. Hopefully this time it works. Initial problem was that the thermostat was busted and I needed a new one. He did two parts replacements, which also happened to be the cheapest fix. He said there were 3 issues, but he didn't want to milk me for a fix that is probably not needed. The third issue was the NOC sensor.

Worst part is after it stalls I have to shift to Park to start it up and leave it in park until I can shift in Drive and gas it, otherwise my car continues to stall. So far spent close to a grand on the car and still not fixed. I've only spent a grand on my original Toyota after driving it for 10 years.

I bought my 2000 Maxima almost a year ago and about a month ago my service engine soon light came on. Went to Auto Zone to have it checked and it read LEAN. They thought maybe there was water in the tank at first so I put some Sea Foam in the tank. That didn't work so I went back and they told me it was probably my O2 sensors. I thought I would try premium gas first because someone told me that might be the reason since that car is recommended you use premium. A few days later the light went off. Then within a couple of days the light came back on and has been on ever since and I'm only using premium. I've decided not to do anything about it unless the car starts running bad.

Now another problem, yesterday I tried to turn on the air conditioner, it doesn't work now either! It just worked last summer. Along with the window not working and my key less entry not working I'm not very happy with my car. Don't get me wrong, the car runs GREAT!!! I love the way it drives I just don't like all the problems!

If anyone else has had problems with the air conditioner please let me know! Thanks.

Thank goodness for the post on 8th Mar 2007, 21:19. I have an 2000 Infiniti I30t, basically a glorified Nissan Maxima. Aroun 60K miles I realized the vehicle had lost power. I went to the dealer and they told me is because of the age of the vehicle, 60K miles are you kidding me? I replied. He suggested we do a fuel injection flush for around $250 dollars, since I loved my car I went ahead and did it anyway. Well it went downhill from there after that here is the milestone:

60K Miles - Loss of power, replaced battery and did fuel injection flush, and replaced they fuel filter. It didn't really fix the problem.

85K Miles - Engine light is on, it must be the 02 sensors they said, so they replaced them.

100K Service - replaced belts, spark plugs, changed oil, and all the standard crap dealership do to rip one off.

110K Miles - Engine is stalling every now and then. I take it to the dealearship and I find out "one of the Catalytic converts is bad." Yes my friends this car has 3 Catalytic converters. So this did solve the problem.

135K Miles - The engine is beginning to bug me, sometimes it feels like it has more power than all the other times. Also the transmission once in a while shifts hard, so I am getting scared. I take it in, and they say it is the Mass air flow control. They also found out that the radiator had a hole on the neck where you screw the cap on, so I need a new radiator. This also explains why the heater was no longer working, because I didn't have coolant. Oh and don't you guys hate the fact that the lights on the clock go bad? Also a couple of buttons on my thermostat no longer have light at night.

So there is something in common between all the problems I have had so far: 02 sensor, catalytic converter, transmission hard shifting/lagging, and Mass Air flow. I am beginning to think that this are all symptoms of the main problem. I think the main problem all along was the Mass Air flow control. This messed up my 02 sensors and Cat converters. My car is still at dealership, and yes many hundreds of dollars are going to be spent once again. Why the heck should I buy a Nissan/Infiniti again? I think I am switching over to Lexus.

Oh by the way, why in the heck would some cheapskate steal my infiniti emblem from the front grill? I would understand if it was a BMW, but please, it's an older car.