Did you guys actually do a diagnostics test with a scanner before changing the oxygen sensor. check engine lights do not always mean bad oxygen sensor besides they have 2 oxygen sensors and you need to figure out which one is bad.
I also have a 2000 and it's terrible. Like others, my oil is disappearing. The dealership is shifty and unreliable. They say they fixed an oil leak once, but still the oil goes away. They say they replaced an O2 sensor once, but still the check engine light is on and my local Jiffy Lube tells me the computer code indicates a bad O2 sensor.
I am utterly convinced that my dealership put off my problems until it was out of warranty so they could soak me.
I am hesitant to give them my car for fear they will patch it without fixing it so that they can continually bilk me.
I know nothing about cars, but am thinking about replacing the O2 sensor myself. Can anyone tell me if this is difficulty and/or give me some pointers?
My wife owns a Santa Fe and the dealer informed me that it is acceptable for a car to use 1 quart of oil per one thousand miles. To me this is a bull. I will be contacting the North American Headquarters regarding this because I doubt it is in the owners manual.
Hi.
I own a 2000 Hyundai Accent that I picked up for $300.00 because the transmission was gone at 140,000 km (about 90,000 miles).
The gentleman who owned the car previously had destroyed the transmission by getting stuck in a snowbank, and shifting rapidly between reverse and drive with the pedal to the floor. The car would only move in reverse, making for a very interesting trek across Barrie at 1 am in reverse through downtown bartime traffic. Somehow I managed not to get pulled over.
After replacing the transmission (bought a scrapyard unit with 80,000km for $700 and dropped it in), I certified the car at work (I work at a transmission shop pulling transmissions in and out for the builder), putting in new ball joints and tie rod ends (one was just about to break; every time I went around a right hand corner I could feel the front drivers side wheel tuck way in and the car would jump to the right; kinda scary), new front pads and rotors, a new flexpipe, new shoes and a new wheel cylinder in the back, and a couple bulbs, plus 2 front tires the car was finally safetied.
The previous owner was a 19 year old college student who absolutely abused the car and did not follow the maintenance schedule whatsoever. The oil hadn't been changed for almost 20,000km; transmission service had never been performed, and the front tires had been destroyed from taking corners too quickly.
All in all, over this car's first 140,000km in hell, it survived pretty well. It runs excellent and is great on gas (even though its slow as hell). Everything that broke was broken because the car was abused, except the flexpipe, which cracked when I unbolted the last transmission mount came off and the engine dropped slightly on its one remaining mount.
The car still does have some issues; The check engine light is on because of a transmission fault code. The scrapyard tranny did not have pulse generators in it, so I got a set from work off of who knows what. After installing them the problem stayed. I put the scanner on the car and the code was "undocumented transmission fault." I had a feeling it was a pulse generator code, so I ran an input/output speed sensor test, involving driving the car with the scanner connected, and watching the pulse generator readings on the scanner. The output speed sensor is not reading anything, but the input works fine. These are not the correct pulse generators for the car (I found them in a big box of wiring harnesses, and they looked close, so I figured I'd try 'em), so its understandable that the transmission computer is having a fit. I have the proper sensors now, but haven't had time to install them.
Also, there are several common reasons that the check engine lights in these cars come on. Most likely is the throttle position sensor, which there is actually a TSB out for. The solution is cheap on parts, and can be repaired in your driveway in under 10 minutes, even if you don't know what you're doing. Just replace that sensor. Faulty tps can cause rich or lean conditions, which may actually bring up an oxygen sensor code rather than a tps code. The other major reason that this light comes on is because of the pulse generator wires shoring out.
Also, transmissions that stick in third gear, do not shift into overdrive, or do not shift into first gear are usually pulse generator issues. The pulse generator wiring is very prone to shorting out on these cars, so make sure that the wires going to and from the blue 4-wire connector that plugs in the pulse generator are good. Use a multimeter and check for continuity. If you don't have continuity, then electrical signals can't travel to and from the pulse generators, explaining the check angine light and also explaining why the transmission goes into "limp" mode (only 2nd and third gear will work, and the only way to engage second is to manually shift into it.) Also, a transmission that is in limp mode raises line pressure to force the transmission to go into gear so you can drive it, so shifts are very hard, especially going from drive to reverse.
I have driven my Accent about 7000km since I got it, and it has served me well so far. I'm fairly happy with it, and pretty impresses at how well it held up after almost 100,000 miles of little to no maintenance and aggressive driving.
I hope some of the information I've provided will help someone.
Cheers
Andrew Nicholson
Lifetime Transmission
Barrie, Ontario
1-705-726-7406
I installed the new pulse generators.
Don't let the Hyundai dealer try and talk you into them.
The ones I got for $45 from Part Source work fine.
The car works perfectly now, the transmission works exactly how it should.
Yeah, I live in IL, I have a 2002 Accent that I bought about 8 months ago - it's a 5 spd 1.5L SOHC with ram air and a performance muffler - it runs fine.
You guys really need to make friends with your mechanics.. 300-400 for a 02 sensor replacement; those things cost like 60 bucks and only take 5 minutes to put in...
Also your automatic transmissions; they are bad for some reason. Only the Accent auto tranny is bad, very bad, but the manuals are fine and the trannys in the other hyundai cars are good... What can you expect for a 10k car?
Anyways, my car has 80,000 and just recently I need to get my rear control arm bushings replaced; they're just old and rotted off. It's gonna be $150 for like 40 diff parts to replace, and my mechanic said only 50 bucks LOL. So $200 for new bushings, which are a pain to replace.
Also my check engine light is on.. probably cuz my old ram air had a hole in it. I replaced it and light didn't go off, so I noticed that my motor makes a loud exhaust tone noise under it. This I need to have checked out; I assume a exhaust manifold or flex pipe leak is setting off the sensor.
All in all, to get all this work done, it's only gonna cost me like I assume $400 at most, and then I should be good for 40 plus thousand miles.
Oh yeah, you guys should really use synthetic oil and K&N oil filters, and for little more power and torque to get your automatic transmission users up those hills, put a ram air on :)
I have a 2000 Accent; it's cheap with decent gas mileage. So far I've replaced the windshield wiper assembly, the pivot point rusted solid, and I lost the AC because the pulley on the bottom of the engine rusted solid. The previous owner had the vehicle serviced at the dealer; I do my own service mostly.
A repeat problem I have is water shorting out the ignition wires. Every time I drive through a rain storm, I cringe because if it's a bad enough storm, water collects in the recessed spot for the 4th spark plug (near the transmission), shorts it out, then I end up driving on 3 cylinders. I guess this is what I should expect for a car I paid $1500 for.
I have a 2000 Accent, we bought it new for our son. He has moved on, and now has a Jeep, so we got the Accent back. It is great on gas, about 33 MPG, but last year, just about Thanksgiving, the automatic transmission went out (no reverse). I called a local shop and was told they could fix it for about $1000 so I took it in. Well $2200 later it still doesn't shift right. I have taken it back several times, and as you can imagine, each time they find something else wrong. The last time the guy did tell me the problem was in the wiring. Now after reading some of the comments, I do believe him.
So far after having the transmission rebuilt, I have had to replace the axes, struts, radiator, new tune up (plugs/wires and the works) both O2 sensors. Oh did I also mention the new brakes and tires.
Talk about a money pit. This is it.
I bought a 2000 Accent 3 years ago (used). It had 78000 km. The day after I drove away the engine light came on. My code reader said it was the MAP sensor or mass air flow sensor. I don't know how they get MAP out of that. The used car dealer paid the $500 for the part and the labour.
When the weather turned cold about a month later the wipers didn't want to move. The mechanism needed replacing $200. A common problem according to the dealer. So was the MAP sensor. Quite honest people.
I had to have one synchro and third gear changed on the 5 speed transmission at about 136,000 km. My fault for shifting without the clutch. The transmission shop recommended that the clutch be changed while everything was apart for $300. Total bill $1100, again mostly my fault.
I had to change a hinge on the hood. I did it myself.
The latest is $400 to change the valve cover gasket, oil pan, gasket and the oil. Many rusted bolts were extracted using a torch. Time is money at the dealer.
I had an evaporative system engine code once. I changed the gas cap as this was cheap to try. For $80 the dealer found a cracked evaporative system hose and cut the bad piece off. Problem never came back.
The body is in good shape so I put an electronic anti corrosion circuit on it. Its been a year now and I still have no holes and the paint still looks good.
All in all I can't complain. I paid $6000 and now have 190,000 km. I didn't add in tune ups and maintenance since all vehicles need that.
In the summer I get up to 50.5 MPG (Canadian gal.) on the highway. I have never measured less than 45 MPG with this car. Not bad for a four wheeled motorcycle (1500cc). It has no power steering and it's a 5 speed manual transmission, both help.
My engine light is on. The reader says O2 sensor. After reading the above comments there are 2 sensors and even more to check.
Would I buy another one? Probably not. After driving for about 1 hour and a half I have to get out and walk around. My right leg goes dead and my butt is sore. The seats are the pits and there is no cruise control. My old Ford tempo had excellent seats. I could sit in those for 6 or 7 hours no problem and no cruise either.
The rear suspension on this Accent has creaked from the day I bought it. All I can say is drive it till it drops. I need to replace my '96 Ford Windstar van first it has 280,000 km. That's a topic for another day.
I loved the story about bringing the car home in reverse. I just about fell off my chair.
Luc
Sudbury Ontario.
I have a 2000 Accent, and I have one problem that doesn't seem to go away, or it does, but then it comes back. My check engine light comes on, and then goes off, then it will stay on for a long time, and then go off. Can anyone help me figure this problem out or is anyone dealing with the same thing. We checked the oil, and a lot of other things as well, how do we fix it. : (
I have a 2000 Accent 5 speed with 140,000 miles on it. The check engine light deal is usually the flex pipe needing replacement. The manual tranny isn't slick, but works as does the car if you maintain it i.e., oil and filter every 3000 miles being the most important thing you can do. As to bringing a used car that is no longer under warranty to the dealer for repairs - you are asking to get hosed. There is a lot of info out there. It would seem that most of these things are obvious to anyone who has ever driven a car. If the car burns a quart of oil every 1000 km, the engine is probably toast. All I can say is that either I'm the luckiest man on the face of the planet (unlikely as I own a Hyundai too) or you should be very careful when dealing with a dealer as they are "only in it for the money." Finding a decent repair shop would be a good start, but it sounds like most of these cars were not maintained properly and that is the root of the problem. I have done maintenance religiously and gave the car away and bought and totalled another and my friend gave me back the Hyundai which is still going strong at 140,000 getting around 38 mpg. It is important to check the oil and keep on top of maintenance with this car. If you do, you can drive it for quite some time and repairs are minor and inexpensive compared to a more upscale car. If you buy second hand, you inherit someone's good car or problem car - a crap shoot. Expecting the dealer to tell you which car is good without having it independently (at least pressure tested) is plain stupid. No offense intended. I learn from mistakes - now you do too. Be very afraid of the Service Shop at the Dealer. Their intent is to part you from your money and I have dealt with a couple when my car was new; each being worse than the last. I now do some maintenance myself and of course check the oil regularly and I too would endorse the K&N filters (especially the air if you like to drive above 65) FWIW.
I have a 1999 Excel with 135,000km on the clock.
I had a very annoying, auto transmission problem, which took me some time to find the fault. It was shifting out of first gear late, at 3500 rpm, & back to first at 30 kph with a jerk. I took it to transmission place & the guy said it was driving normal. Unsatisfied, I took it to another, he serviced it & was angry because he spent 4 hours trying to find the fault, which he did not find. So I had to fix it myself. It was related to speed of the car, VSS was OK, & no codes on ECU. I changed the pulse generators with second hand units from wreckers for $20. They read the speed of the auto in & out, for shift timing. THIS FIXED THE PROBLEM. The reason there was no codes, is the coils & wiring in the pulse generators were fine, but the output generator had a shattered magnet in it, & would not create enough volts to send to TCM for vehicle speed.
I hate taking my cars to mechanics & do all servicing myself, because they do not think outside the square & cost money for nothing.
I think Hyundai are good car if looked after. Mine runs very well on LPG, & is very cheap to fill up.
Thanks from Dave (Australia)
My daughters 2000 Accent is a great car, but I just started having a problem with the overdrive switch; the tranny shifts rough, but it seems OK, but it won't go into O/D. Any ideas?
I also have a 2000 Accent and I am having transmission problems. It randomly slides and really forces to accelerate... and that's not talking about the electrical problems I have; my dashboard lights don't work and lights that are not supposed to be on, turn on and drain my battery... my Dad has spent hours trying to figure out the problem.
I'm afraid it's going to cost me a lot.. the car was cheap but the repairs are not.. I have many other little problems, but those are the most annoying ones... it's not a bad car, but I guess it's getting old; 8 years old!! And it's rusting a lot!!
Re warning light flashing on and off. I had the same problem with my 2001 Accent. I could go for weeks with no problem and then it would start flashing, or just stay on. It seemed worse when it was cold, especially cold and damp and the car would idle rough. I took it in to my wonderful mechanics yesterday and they are replacing the ignition wires which were burned out.
I am getting my car back today, because I had a lot of other maintenance stuff done which I have neglected, but I've been going to these mechanics for years and they always find and fix the problem; I've never had to bring my car back for something not properly fixed. So it might be your ignition wires.
Also, my windshield wipers stopped working as per other posts, and that is also being repaired/replaced.
Hope this helps.