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Comments: 1-15, 16-30, 31-45, 46-60
I have a 99 Rodeo as well. I bought it when it was 3 years old. It's given me every single problem the I read about except for the Back Windshield Wipers. My ABS system went out, my gas gauge doesn't work so I'm constantly resetting my miles when I put gas. My check engine light is off and on again and my transmission slips into neutral (and back to drive) when I'm driving. Now more frequently than before since I'm doing a lot of stop and go driving. I remember this past summer I was having to add oil like every 6 weeks. What's up with that? It's a very nice vehicle... still looks good, but the problems are ridiculous. Yeah, it gets on my nerves to... but what do you do??? I paid a lot of money for this car, so I have to keep it.
It hasn't broken down on me yet, so I've been lucky. But with everything else that's going on, you have to wonder what's next? Austin, TX.
Ditto to the ABS, Gas Gauge, Check Engine Light. I had the ABS module replaced for $265 by the dealer and the next week I got a recall in the mail for that part. When I called the dealer about it they said it wasn't a manditory recall so they weren't going to refund me. After calling other local dealers and reporting them to BBB, I got a refund check in the mail.
I had previously paid to have the gauge fixed during a scheduled maintenance, it was about $400 for the whole deal.
I have always had idol problems - It likes to rev up at stop signs.
Tighting the gas cap used to work on the engine light, but not this last time.
I bought my 1999 Rodeo new and I have about 118,000 miles on it. I also have experienced most of these same problems. The oil consumption problem has been a real concern. The oil consumption is worse on long trips. There are no oil drops on the garage floor and I don't appear to be leaving a cloud of smoke behind me... so where is it going?
I just took it to the dealer and was told that sometimes the EGR Tube gets clogged. When it does get clogged, pressure is unable to escape. This build up in pressure causes the increased oil consumption.
So, for $110, I had the tube cleaned out. I just had it done today, so I cannot say whether it has fixed the problem or not. We'll see.
I am starting to experience the faulty gas gauge problem also with my 2001 Izusu Rodeo with 44,000 miles. Might try some of the tricks listed above, but figure it will end up costing me anyway. We all need to push for Izusu to issue a recall on the Fuel Sending unit / Fuel pump.
Also, just had a tune up and I still get engine pings (misfire) sometime when accelerating or on incline.
Took it back in for them too look at and could nott find anything wrong. Said maybe that it could be bad gas.
Been meaning to write my Senator about “the high price of bad gas”. I think these oil companies are
Really taking us to the cleaners and could be damaging our car engines.
Guys... Let me tell you something VERY IMPORTANT AND PLEASE FOLLOW ME.
This is about your gas gauge issue. YES Isuzu Manufactured these cars with defective sending units. NO you do not need to replace your FUEL PUMP. ALL YOU NEED TO REPLACE IS YOUR SENDING UNIT.
SENDING UNITS ARE EXTREMELY CHEAP! I bought mine for 45 DOLLARS and got it replaced within ONE HOUR. My gas gauge has been fine for 4 years now.
I'm TYPING IN CAPS TO SAVE YOU GUYS MONEY. DO NOT BE FOOLED, SENDING UNITS ARE CHEAP AS HELL, I'll try to find the car dealership I purchased it from, but I doubt it since its been 4 years.
DO RESEARCH AND Don't WASTE YOUR MONEY!
Re: the 1999 Isuzu rodeo gas gauge problems... we listened to the local mechanic and had the sensor replaced in the tank, which included installing a new fuel pump... the first time I filled the tank up after the work was done gas spilled out from underneath the vehicle... it is now back at the shop where the pump was replaced- I was afraid to drive it and had it towed there. also, yes, same problems everyone mentions... living without a rear wiper, without intermittent wipers, with having to adjust wipers when cutting them off so they are down, and with a constant check engine light on... even after fixing the fuel gauge, and the egr valve being replaced. latest thing is flashing interior lights... going on and off at random...
I recently purchased a 1999 Isuzu Rodeo. I have had the gas gauge issues. Now I just fill up every 100 miles or so. I don't dare wait much longer than that.
This morning while I was driving to work, the check engine light came on and stayed on. When I left work this afternoon, I stopped at a gas station, checked the water, and checked the oil. Of course, it was a quart low. After adding oil, the check engine light stayed on. I think I was very close to having a panic attack all the way home. The whole time I was driving, I was listening for any noises. Thankfully, I made it.
I am also having issues with idling. If I let it run for a few minutes before driving, it will often calm itself down. Then and only then will I drive it.
It's so disappointing. This is the first time I've been able to buy myself a good car in years, only to find out it's not so good.
I guess misery loves company. I wish I had found this board before shelling money on this vehicle. To make make matters worse for me the Great State of IL lost my title, transfer, and check and I can't get rid of it until I work all of that out. Today it started shifting hard, and I checked my oil last week and put 2 quarts in,, of course I have the gas gauge issue, and the engine light has been going on and off since I bought it 6 months ago, usually it is a gas fill up thing. However if you want mine I will sell it to you reasonable price.
June 10 07 I have had all these same problems with a 99 rodeo. no rear wiper (tried replacing wiper unit and switch-no fix. it needs a 200$ board of some sort. I don't use it enough to justify buying it. my fuel gauge light comes on after using half a tank, so we constantly fill it up with 7-8 gallons. had hard shifting issues as well several times between 2nd and 3rd. And uses plenty of oil without leaking. they should recall these type things instead of the silly stuff. Overall it is dependable driving as long as you don't use your instruments-ha!
I'm so sad to read all these comments! I'm at 105k on my 1999 Rodeo and have had no problems until now. I took it in today and was told I need new brakes (first time they've been changed) and a new serpentine (second time its been replaced). Other than that though I've had no issues and am so happy with my Rodeo. After writing this I'm going to knock on wood 500 times and anticipate fuel gauge and check engine light problems, but if that's all I'll have to worry about...I'll take it! And for those of you who wondered about how many miles per tank... with LA city driving (stop and go, no long freeway stretches) I usually fill up around 225 miles.
I have a 1999 Isuzu Rodeo LS V6. Here are current problems:
- Gas gauge does not work at about 50K miles
- Car seems to keep moving forward when braking over a bumpy pavement.
- Rattling noise which cannot be determined by the repair shop or by a muffler repair shop.
- Loose oil
- Rear Differential needs replacement (recent problem starting at about 75K miles)
I found these links for help on the Gas Sending Unit and others:
http://www.planetisuzoo.com/articles.htm?id=116&Replacing_the_Fuel_Sending_Unit_on_a_2nd_Gen_Isuzu_Rodeo
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/t201477.html.
Supplies Needed
2-3 Ft Vacum Hose
2 Cans Seafoam Injection Cleaner
1 Quart Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer
1 Large Can Gumout Carb Cleaner Spray.
The links in the post above this will be very helpful in your quest for a problem free Rodeo. But here is my story and fixes. I have got a 99 Rodeo LS 2WD with 253,000 Miles and I have been through most of this. Here is how to keep your Rodeo running top knock. First add a pint container of either Seafoam or any Very strong Engine cleaner in with your oil. Run for 5 Mins. Have another can of seafoam or any very strong injection cleaner. Pull off the small vacuum hose under the throttle body. Using a longer hose connected to that port and start the truck. With the throttle raised up to about 2500 rpms slowly dip the vacuum hose in the seafoam injector cleaner letting the vacuum draw it into the engine.. The engine should bog down. Pull the hose back out. Then repeat once more. When the second dip is done drop it back to idle. Then dip the hose all the way in. This should stall the motor after a few seconds. Reconnect old vacum hose and pour the rest of the seafoam back into the gas tank. Let that soak in the motor while you move on to the next paragraph.
Now drain the oil. While the oil is draining remove the large rubber hose from the air box to the filter. Open the throttle by hand and spray it all down with the Gumout. More than likely it will be all nasty and black with carbon. Spray and wipe the throttle flap with the Gumout Carburetor cleaner until clean. Paying special attention to the back side and bottom. It is the only part you can't see and the most critical to clean. The carbon builds up on all of these surfaces and allows additional air to slip by creating a check engine light or CEL. Get a flashlight and with the throttle all the way open look for a tube probably quarter inch around it will be located top left back from the throttle body. Make sure it is NOT plugged if it is blast it with some more Gumout Spray Carb cleaner. If still plugged you have 2 choices remove the EGR valve and use compressed air to blow it out. If this is not an option use a coat hanger and gumout to break it a part. Don't weary about the chunks you break off the will be burnt back up and sent out the exhaust. Spray every where you can get in there with more Gumout don’t be shy with it. This area is another CEL problem. Mine clogged only once and have done this ritual every oil change at 5,000 miles. Dealers call this a throttle body service and can charge over $200.00 dollars for it and would not be as thorough as this.
After you’re all cleaned and unplugged the tube. Put the Air filter tube back on. Now your oil should be fully drained. Put the oil drain plug back in. Fill the crankcase with 10/40 Oil. I know its supposed to be 5/30 But believe me this will be better. Only put 4 quarts in. Then Put a quart bottle of Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer. Oil will now stay in the motor. The lucas is a little expensive a $7.88 a quart, but that one quart will save you at least 10 of oil or more. OK now when you start the Rodeo it will smoke like Hells kitchen. Take it straight out before your neighbors see it and give it a good run that will blow out all that nasty carbon., When I do mine now it doesn’t even smoke.
Now for the gas gauge. They are available through some dealers on the internet. The links in the post above mine should have them. The are like $40.00 and it comes with 2. So you flip a wire on one of the new ones and you have a pair the same. They are not that hard to put in. But I would recommend a repair shop do it for you. You DO NOT have to change the fuel pump with it. Just the sensor.
Now the dreaded rattle that took me forever to find. Mine was towards the back I swore it was the back glass, but as it turned out it was the back seats. Fold down the back seats flat. Now there will be a metal horse shoe looking piece that that the seats lock to when they are in the up right position. Wrap black electrical tape around the horse shoe thing where the seat makes contact. Wrap it about 4 time and go wider than the strike zone of the seats. That should fix one of the most annoying that I have found.
You DO NOT have to replace the Wiper Board assembly. There are 2 Relays on that board that need to be replaced. Anyone that can follow directions and solder should have no problem with this one. I found the relays on the internet for $7.00 each that’s a $190.00 savings over the whole unit. The link below will help you with this project. http://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?t=5608.
I just recently had a code error pop up indicating the Throttle Positioning Sensor was faulty. The sensor itself was $75 and labor was 2 hours. However I did drive it while the error light was lit and noticed the hard shifting mentioned in some of the comments above. Once the sensor was replaced the shifting returned to normal. Of course now I have the fuel gauge problem. My guess would be that they are not grounding their sensors very well and the failure of one takes others with it.
I just ran out of gas because I did not know how much was in the tank due to my gauge not working. I put a gallon in, and it still won't start. I do not feel like walking back to the gas station in this hot Houston heat. Thankfully I ran out of gas before I left the parking lot at my job.
This is my first time reading this forum and almost every problem listed has happened to me. Oil burning, rattle underneath near the back, transmission hard shifting, etc etc. This sucks...
Isuzu should AT LEAST do a recall on the Fuel Sending Unit issues.
We have a 2000 Rodeo which we bought new. After about 3 years we noticed the fuel gauge starting to read a bit off. The problem got worse and lo and behold my wifes' sister who has a 1998 Rodeo has the same problem. I called Isuzu and they swore on all things Holy that there has not been a problem with any other car than mine. I found it odd, but life goes on. At this point now when the gauge reads dead empty I will take about 11 gallons. Hardly empty.The low fuel indicator comes on when we go around a corner when it THINKS the fuel is low, but stabilizes in a couple of minutes. I called a dealer and was told that they have never heard of that problem. I really think that they are lying. So I will follow suit. My next car will surely be another Isuzu. Yes, I'm LYING!!!