1998 Volvo XC70 from North America - Comments

I have had to put nearly $5000.00 Cnd. into my 98 V70AWD in the last 30 days. This does not include the $689.00 tow bill this past weekend (not to mention the stress this is putting on my family).

In June we replaced the crankshaft and bearings etc, as well as the upper control arms, CV Boots, pair of tires, and other items directly related to the handling. Total bill just over $3,200.00 Cnd.

Less than 700 km later the transfer case gave up on the car. This will be another $2000.00 approx.

Other issues, three of the five doors will not lock or unlock, the front passenger door can only be opened from the outside, leaking sunroof, and many other issues too numerous to describe. This was my third and my LAST Volvo.

This car has only 156,000km on it. I will buy Japanese or North American next time???

Does anybody have any comment on the replacement of the crankshaft??? Does it have any effect or possibility of an effect on the now failed transfer case???

Wow, it sounds like you have all been driving my car.

I've been driving a 98 XC70 for almost 7 years now. I bought it in January 2001 with 98000 kilometers, or 60000 miles. It drives beautifully, it looks great, it's really comfortable, and it handles extremely well, but (you all knew this was coming...)

It is the most expensive car I have ever had to repair and maintain (more than the BMW I had previously). I always service my cars at the dealership, even though they are more expensive than repair shops, they can usually diagnose and fix problems much quicker. That being said, I can't show up at Volvo without it costing me a fortune. For example, I've replaced an ABS control module ($800.00), 1 upper and 2 lower engine mounts, many brake jobs (2 brake jobs two years apart for $1000 each - including 4 new rotors each time), just to name a few.

The car has 205000 kilometers on it now and I'm currently experiencing: transmission problems, leaking power steering fluid, burning oil, numerous electrical problems, and I have no heat as of yesterday (I live in Canada!). I also need to replace a bearing on my drive shaft at $1500 to $2000, why so expensive you ask, because the bearing is built in to the drive shaft, that's right, I have to replace the whole drive shaft just because of a worn bearing.

I'd love to be able to say that at 204000 kilometers it owes me nothing... but in 7 years, I've had too many issues with it. I was told that Volvos are good for at least 350000 kilometers - that maybe true, but at what cost.

Strangely (or sadly), I still love my Volvo!

Many of you have described my 98 XC70 very very well. Including the new car look it still has (I do like the style and comfort). What an emotional and financial roller coaster ride it has been. I bought it in 2001. The only experience I can add; a vibration from the rear part of the drive train; the viscous coupling has been changed three times and they do not know what is wrong causing it to keep failing. I would not give the car to anyone let alone sell it to anyone. I would not be able to sleep at night if I were responsible for such pain inflicted on some unsuspecting buyer who fell for the looks of it. I am currently determined to get all of my money, excessive thousands, in repairs back by driving it completely into the ground and dragging it out for as long as possible. Survival with backyard repairs and good old ingenuity has worked well. Although I have been putting it off, I intend to remove the rear drive shaft next. That should get me another year or two with my front wheel drive XC70.

Oh yea-- I will never buy another Volvo again either.

John

I finally gave up on bringing my 98 V70 XC to my neighborhood Volvo dealer for their so called "scheduled maintenance" because these crooks always went the extra mile to write up a laundry list of problems that need "immediate attention". 4 years ago I began taking it to a 3rd party mechanic who repairs Volvo exclusively. Since then my maintenance costs have dropped an order of magnitude, the car runs as well as it always has, and my new mechanic performs the same "all points safety inspection" that my former crooked Volvo service manager use to perform. It's nice to know there are still a few honest people left in this world.

BTW - I pass by my neighborhood Volvo dealer twice a day going to and from work, and I rarely see perspective buyers roaming the lot, which is proof enough for me the dealer makes up for it in bogus repairs.

I also have a '98 XC and have experienced some of the same issues. However, I do not count things like oil changes, rotors, and brake jobs. I will also say that taking it to the dealership is the biggest scam going. The will drag out most of the major problems until after your warranty expires.

I have worked on numerous cars over the years and by far my 98 XC70 is the most HIGH-MAINTENANCE of them all. Here is a list of items that have been replaced since buying the car used at 45,000 miles (currently has 131,000 miles) : front control arms, front struts and bearings, tie-rods, sway-bar links, brakes, rotors, rear-calipers, hatch struts, timing belt, tension, water pump, ABS module, MAF, AC recharge every summer season, front driver's 1/2 shaft, motor mounts (lower and upper)...etc. Fortunately, I am able to install my own parts and have found Grouton's parts supplies to sell most of the parts to me at 1/2 of the Volvo dealer price; otherwise I would not be driving the car today.

My 98 XC has done 290000 km & I have replaced, most of the parts mentioned here at great expense. What is most disappointing is that Volvo must know they have produced a dud yet stand behind their creation & make $$$$ from the carnage rather than support their mostly loyal customers with reasonably priced parts & service. Oh how I miss my old 85 240GL Wagon!

I bought my 1998 XC70 in June (10 yrs old) of this year for about $4000 US. I believe I am the 3rd owner, at 130k miles.

Yes there are the typical problems mentioned here and Yes- I still love my car.

It's looks and handles very well.

I also agree with not including scheduled service, like

oil changes, brakes and regular wear and tear in my list of issues. I consider that upkeep. The regular brake work is unfortunate, but what you get with a heavy, safe, luxury vehicle.

It is now Nov and I have put about $2k into it. I also found a local shop that seems to do a good job and is cheaper than a dealer. I do what I can myself, though I'm

no mechanic. I did some research before buying and expected there to be some regular repairs. I also have owned 3 late 80's and early 90's 240 series. The current 240 we still have. The two are vastly different in terms of the complexity of repairs, but the costs, so far, have been nearly equal. I also think the 240's were built to last.

My fiance was in an accident that totaled our last 240 sedan and her survival reinforced my love of Volvo.

One suggestion is make an appointment once a year at your local Volvo dealer for a status estimate and list of issues or potential issues for the model, year and age of the car. It's usually about a $100 bucks for this. Then you can prioritize the regular maintenance and decide who should do the work and when. I have found researching the issues on-line helps me to, at least understand the service needed.

Not everyone is mechanically inclined, but in terms of a 10 year old car, I think you've got to expect this, though this approach may not be for everyone.

Also, consider purchasing a repair manual like Haynes

(covering the 98 V70) there is a section to help diagnose problems before taking to the shop. I can't speak for owners who bought their cars as new, but buying a used car to save money is almost always going to mean you get what you pay for. I look at it as I paid for $4k for a car that listed in Kelley Blue book as $6k-8k. If I put $2k into it, that's about right- fingers crossed- as I sit here waiting for my shop to call me back. Maybe I should expect more from Volvo, but 1998 was the first model year of this car and that is always a red flag with most mechanical things. I'm sure some would disagree, but I'm not ready to give up on my car.

(last post continued)

Well, after trying to be optimistic... the shop called back.

I brought the car in because the rear right wheel was seizing. After my mechanic pulled the wheel and checked the brakes to find nothing (?) - probably some foreign road debris stuck in the wheel.

That's the good news. The bad news- he heard a noise from the timing belt, pulled back the cover and found it was the original belt (130k) - still had the blue factory paint sealing the bolts. The belt was shiny (wear) and cracked in places, meaning it will go soon. If it goes, it potentially damages the engine. That's another $1100. Since accessing this means access to the idler wheel (that hold the timing belt in place) and the thermostat ($18). Also the flame trap which is responsible for recirculating the combusted oil / vapor is clogged and worn which can lead to other problems. The Flame Trap is one of those very hard to access parts. So total, we're looking at $1600 with a (cross you fingers) yearly PA state inspection for safety and emissions which is due at the end of this month (NOV). So, yeah- I'm in agreement with nearly all the above comments. Buyer Beware or at least be informed.

There must be something wrong with me, because I still love this car, but no doubt it's an expensive child to feed and maintain.

To be fair, the cambelt change isn't the cars fault... they all need changing!