1998 Lincoln Continental sedan from North America - Comments

I own a 98 Connie @100k miles. New tires helped the handling issues I had but the rusted tie rods replacements and an four wheel alignment helped a lot more. Reset the rear end height sensor for an even ride while unloaded.

Engine management system said the camshaft position sensor was trashed so I replaced that. It was inexpensive and quite easy to change out. I used my code reader to reset the PCM's codes. I have never seen an hall effect sensor magnetized before in my life.

No.3&4 cylinders died one day and led to an episode of rough idle and check engine light being illuminated. found the seals on the spark plug and coil cover on top of the rear cylinder bank valve cover was a bit flaky. This allowed water to accumulate in the spark plug bore and short out the high voltage from the top of plug coil to ground, bypassing the spark plug. I also resealed the gasket foam that seals the cabin air plenum in front of the windscreen to prevent water (probably from a high pressure car wash) from running down on top of the rear cylinder bank valve cover. I blew the water out of the plug well in the cylinder head and thoroughly cleaned and sealed everything. then I reset the PCM's codes and it's worked out like the champ it is.

A code reader that will also reset the pcm's memory will save you a lot of time and money in the long run. It also makes troubleshooting such complex engine systems that much easier-and allows you to double check any work being done on your vehicle.

My newest vehicular folly involves the HVAC system always blowing hot air, no mater what the temp is set to. And yes the AC compressor turns on as it's supposed to and chills the lines etc. I hadn't found a heat valve and suspect there isn't one. It may be a blend door not moving as commanded by the electronic controller. Does anyone know what color hose from the back of the controller goes to the heat blend circuit?? the manifold is accessable from under the glove box where a six port connector is located. Probably just drop the passenger side hush panel. I can hear valve and actuators moving with a vaccuum tester, but I really don't want to tear into the plastic HVAC housing with out knowing what I'm getting into.

18city to 26 highway is about what I get for economy. Altitude plays a part in the mileage figure here in Denver. On hot and high days, the density altitude can hit well over 9k ft. I get better economy here than at sea level. EEC-V does that. I use regular octane fuel a lot because the altitude limits peak cylinder pressure but at low altitude I run premium. Runs great. I usually get 25 mpg while cruising at 80 mph. nothing to complain about there!

A comfortable, quiet, and roomy car with a huge trunk and automatic leveling. Great highway cruiser. Outstanding audio system. I really like the way the transmission up shifts thru the gears. Too be any smoother, it would have to be powered by an electric motor. Great paint. Good looks.

The '98 Continental is a nightmare for any mechanic, dealer shop or private. These cars are known for transmission problems, air ride problems, and anything that would be a minor repair on any other brand becomes a major dis-assembly issue costing the owner tons.

I will never own another over rated Lincoln Mercury product again.

I changed a transmission in a 98 Continental AX4N. On the ground, dropped the sub frame on the drivers side, loosened the sub frame bolts on the passenger side, and opened it like a clam shell. I work in the industry and looked up book time out of our labor time guide, and its 9.6 hours or more with a hoist.

This car sat for 2 years, found coil spring broken on drivers front strut, (new spring by itself from Ford is $484.00, ouch, not available in aftermarket). Bought a whole use strut assembly from a bone yard for $150.00) amazingly air hide, height sensors work fine. But it over heats. No hot air coming from heater either, I suspect stuck t-stat heater hoses not getting hot, or huge air pocket. I did not have to break open any coolant lines so I suspect t-stat. Where the heck is the t-stat??? I'm a GM guy don't normally work on the "F" words.