Just wanted to say from my original post in 2004 that my car is up to 180K in mileage. Here's what's happened so far:
- Had Ford replace ignition lock in 2004 (I don't remember how much, but I was sick of being stuck and just had it towed to their lot)
- Had Ford replace battery cables and timing belt ($700, including a diagnostic to "see" what the problem was)
- Self-replaced front oxygen sensor (under hood) in 2007... pretty easy to do with WD-40 to loosen rusted parts.
- Self-replaced DPFE sensor with hoses in 2007. A special note: the DPFE sensor might be called the "EGR Valve Pressure Sensor". Also, looks like Ford came out with a new part for the '01 models and up, although many of them can still use the old "winged" style.
- Self-replaced EGR valve in 2007.
- Had independent mechanic replace fuel filter in 2007. Asked him to replace other oxygen sensor (past catalytic converter), but he said it was still good and no need to replace now (thank God).
Currently, I'm up for license plate renewal AND emissions testing. Since they're tied in together for Illinois, I have to pass emission before getting my license renewed. Which would be fine, but...
- Check engine light (CEL) won't go off.
When I would check the error code, it was always the same: "EGR valve" and "Oxygen Sensor" errors. Besides the CEL being on, I've been able to startup and run the car. It idles fine on initial startup, but then dies out. Went to Autozone a few times, they would clear it initially and send me on my way. I did the "clearing" thing a total of five times before taking to the mechanic.
Took the car to the same local mechanic and had a tune-up, and everything looked fine. He got the CEL to go off (finally), but then got a reading that said I had a problem with the DPFE sensor. This is weird because I just replaced it less than 6 months ago (sensor should be good for at least 2 years). I told him that I had replaced all parts under supervision and had the supervising person checked everything. When I told him that, he suggested either burnt-out hoses or carbon build-up (back to square one, eh?).
Does anyone have experience with the carbon build-up issue, too? If so, where is it building up?
Hello to all,
I am a automotive locksmith and would like to share some of the methods I have used with the Ford Focus Ing. issues.
The problem of a stuck key : When a key wears it will cause the buzzer to not allow the key to be removed, without using more force than usual. This can lead to bent wafers inside the lock.
Have a fresh code cut key made (not a copy). If your key is well worn it is likely not thick or wide enuf to move the key buzzer out of the way as the key exits the Ing.
You may have a steel or mechanical key code cut first, No transponder in the key. This key will only lock and unlock your Focus but the point is to go to your car and insert this key and remove this key many times and see if it hangs up? If it does not hang up then having your transponder key remade will likely fix your trouble.
If this works for you find a shop or someone who will remove the transponder from your old worn key and put your transponder chip in a new SHELL key and have the cut your new shell key by code. Your transponder chip will still allow your car to start and work as usual. Don't let anyone tell you (Well I will have to reprogram your new shell key and it will cost $$$ extra). IF they say this move on to the next shop.
SHELL KEY: a exact replica key of your current key with a new key blade to be Code Cut and a slot for the transponder chip to be installed into it.
The bar as it is called here is a anti pick/screwdriver device used in other locks with much success but as time has proven not with this Focus lock. When it gets dirty and worn it can also be part of the trouble for removing a key or the key gets sticky and will refuse to turn the Ing. on or sometimes off.
Removing the sidebar or bar will help remove many troubles with this Focus Ing.. I never install a new Ing. in a Focus with a BAR unless the customer request this after we have had a talk about it.
WD40: This may work well in many cases but if you ever have a new ing. installed please consider the use of a Teflon lube that sprays on wet but dries to a wax finish. The wax finish will reject dirt, grime, and many other things that invade your lock. WD40 is a oil based lube and will hold sand and other grit in place to cause wear and gunk the lock up. WD40 works well when applied in the right application.
The Teflon I am speaking of can be purchased at the big box store with a L in the name and is made by the largest name in the Teflon world. Race car on can.
Also, a new Ing. is not always needed, but for most it is the first step to cure many of the Focus troubles. MAKE SURE IT IS NOT A SIDEBAR ING. That is used for the replacement.
I hope this will help someone, and yes FORD does need to step up and make this right for the Focus owners.
There are other problems that ail this lock but these are the most common issues I see in the field.
Truly Yours Sam.
Hi, today my key would not come out of the ignition of my 2006 Focus. It starts (thank goodness) but I have to leave the key in the ignition while it's parked outside in my driveway!
This is the first time it's happened, I'm gratified to see all the help in this thread. I'm going to try the least expensive options first and see what happens. Thanks to the poster above who recommends the Teflon spray, I'll give it a shot first. I will also go to using the never-used spare I received with the car to avoid the possibility that my well-used key is causing the problem.
I'm crossing my fingers that the car will start in the morning for work.
THANKS FORD.
My key was stuck in the ignition and wouldn't come out on my Ford Focus. I put in drive and tried to start the car, then put back in park, started the car, then turned the car off, then the key came out! No problems for weeks now! I think it my be a switch sticking problem. Give it a try, it costs nothing.
Another possible source of the sticking key could be related to the locking mechanism on the steering wheel/ignition lock. My wife's Ford key got stuck and she called the Ford hotline (number is in the owner's packet). A very kind lady told her to apply pressure to the steering wheel as if she were turning a corner and wiggle the key. This released the key. I also had the same thing happen with another car (not a Ford) and the same thing worked for it.
My daughter's car did something very similar today but with a different twist. It's a 2000 Focus we bought used. The key will go in and out fine but will not turn the engine over. Obviously with the key not turning the wheel won't turn and shifter is disabled. I'm having it towed as we speak. Wished I would have tried to Google this before I lined up the towing company and mechanic.
To the person with the Ford that keeps dying. Check the hose near the firewall, it will burn a hole in it. That will keep your car dying to. Also the idle air control valve on mine went bad, which caused the car to die to.
I am currently experiencing it again, the lock problem on my 2000 Ford Focus LX. I have already tried all different kinds of lube. The key won't turn the ignition. Plus the wheel is locked, which sucks. I don't want to do the drill out. I was hoping there is someway I can release the pressure from the steering wheel lock, so I can then maybe hopefully turn the key to the part where I can remove it, and take out the tumblers. That sounds like a great solution for as long as we keep this car. I only have 1 coded key, I read how to disable that to, but probably unwise, if you take out the tumblers. Just to have some protection.
Hopefully someone can respond to this.
Tap it for a little extra help. I did the lube thing, The Teflon is the best idea here, and then tapped it with a little hammer (tapped the key like I'm hammering it in) and that let me turn the key. So far so good till a week later it got stuck, now I have everyone on the family that drives know how to do the tap thing till I can get the tumblers out.
Scott.