1998 Dodge Durango from North America - Comments

I recently picked up a 99 Durango with 130K miles on a 5.2L. Lately the oil pressure gauge has been dropping to zero and a few minutes later coming back up to normal. More recently though, the oil has stayed more at zero than at normal. I could turn the truck off and restart it and the oil pressure would return to normal for a little longer. Today I was driving home and the gauge dropped to zero, and wouldn't come back up, and when I got home, there was a noticeable tick. Have I ruined my motor?

"I recently picked up a 99 Durango with 130K miles on a 5.2L. Lately the oil pressure gauge has been dropping to zero and a few minutes later coming back up to normal. More recently though, the oil has stayed more at zero than at normal. I could turn the truck off and restart it and the oil pressure would return to normal for a little longer. Today I was driving home and the gauge dropped to zero, and wouldn't come back up, and when I got home, there was a noticeable tick. Have I ruined my motor?"

Yes, very likely. These things have been out long enough now that everybody has finally learned to recognize their problems. From what everybody says, this dropping oil pressure issue is a real thing, not just the gauge. The two common causes seem to be either an ill-fitting gasket that allows oil to burn off, or the oil pump pickup screen gets clogged with carbon and starves the oil pump so oil doesn't circulate through the engine. Some people have changed that intake manifold gasket, others have removed the oil pan to clean the oil pump pickup screen. BTW, that is the long name for a single part, the "oil pump pickup screen". Some have suggested that the screen gets covered over with carbon as a result of using high octane gas because the higher oxygen promotes carbon buildup--don't know, myself, if that's true. One possible cheap fix may be to run a kind of engine flush through the engine--something you add to the engine oil that dissolves sludge and carbon buildup. Others suggest adding some diesel fuel to the crank case, which they say does the same thing. Adding "Marvel Mystery Oil" may do the same thing. Don't drive the car any more until you at least try the engine oil flush. If you are very, very lucky, the ticking might only be a hydraulic valve lifter that is starved for oil, and hopefully it is not an actual knock that indicates a spun bearing or connecting rod about to blow. If the engine is shot, shop around for a machine shop that will rebuild your engine before you pay huge money for a dealer to install a new engine. You'll probably save a couple or even several thousand dollars that way.

What is the procedure for flushing the motor to get the carbon buildup and sludge out? For the Marvel's Mystery oil? For using diesel fuel? I have a good feeling about flushing the motor. If that doesn't work, I think the oil pump replacement will do it. Is there anyway to replace the oil pump myself in my driveway? I read something about having to lift up the motor. Are there any shortcuts around it?

"What is the procedure for flushing the motor to get the carbon buildup and sludge out? For the Marvel's Mystery oil? For using diesel fuel? I have a good feeling about flushing the motor. If that doesn't work, I think the oil pump replacement will do it. Is there anyway to replace the oil pump myself in my driveway? I read something about having to lift up the motor. Are there any shortcuts around it?"

If you go to any auto parts store, you can find a solvent that you add to the crankcase oil. There are different brand names, just explain that you want an engine oil flush. Typically, you pour the can into the oil fill tube, start the engine and let it warm up to operating temperature and maybe let it idle for 15 or 20 minutes. Because this is a solvent that dilutes oil and dissolves sludge, you don't actually drive the car because putting the engine under load could damage it. After the idling time, shut off the engine and do a standard oil change and filter change to drain out the solvent. There will also be directions on the product. I would suggest that when you put in new oil, use fully synthetic oil for ever after in case you have scored bearings or other effects of oil starvation. Just see if the tick is still there, and note what the oil pressure gauge does. You may want to keep doing the engine oil flush procedure over and over until the oil pressure returns to normal. It may cost you some oil, but is cheaper than a new engine. I'd also make it a routine to change oil every 2,000 miles for city/stop-and-go driving, or 3,000 miles for highway driving. Don't pay any attention to anything that says you can go 5,000 or 7,000 miles between oil changes. That's probably one of the reasons why the oil screen is clogged in the first place.

To reach the oil pump pickup screen you'd have to take off the oil pan, and there is lots of stuff in the way--cross members, tie rods, the transaxle. Maybe you could lift the engine instead, but then you have to unbolt the motor mounts and find a chainfall or hoist that will lift it up, and it might still be touch and go as to whether you could slide the oil pan out. Anything can be done, but it would be best to give yourself a full weekend in a warm garage. The oil pump may or may not actually be bad. Don't make the mistake of going through all the work to replace the oil pump, and leave the pickup screen in the same state. The pickup screen is a large, flat, circular disc that rests near the bottom of the oil pan, so when you get the pan off, it will be jutting down. The pickup is attached to a long metal tube that threads into the oil pump, so you have to remove the oil pump before you can unscrew the dog-legged pickup. Clean the tube and screen scrupulously, soak it in solvent, scrub it with a stiff toothbrush or bore brush, maybe even run a swab down the tube. Wipe out any sludge in the oil pan. Maybe you can find a procedure that makes it as easy as possible, but it won't really be "easy" easy, and I think you'll be looking at some substantial time and work to get it off, and I don't think it's a job you'll want to tackle out in the driveway with the car up on those little car ramps.

Jay, I just purchased a 2002 durango with 35K miles. So far so good. I have read all numerous articles and such online about these vehicles and as a result am getting the recalled parts replaced (upper ball joints and the fire causing electric thingy). While at the dodge dealer I asked about the sludge issue, the response was they found penzoil was bad to use on dodges. Basically that is all they said. I am a female in the military so am far from people I know and trust to do anything on my car. Can you tell me exactly what I need to do to avoid experiencing the sludge problem. I need step by step, I am confused by all the information and what applies to cars with problems already and ones you just want to prevent them on.

I have a 2002 Dodge Durango. I have to replace the wiper blades every 3 or 4 months due to squeaking and dragging. The blades still look good. I have tried every brand and price. Any ideas what is wrong?

PJ---Kansas City

Hey Jay I am having problems with my Durango. I just replaced the oil sensor today. I was wondering about the gasket you were talking about where is it located and how hard is it to replace?Also what should my oil pressure gauge read in the truck? email me back and let me know it will be very much appreciated thanks. panama_city_florida@yahoo.com.

Sincerely,

Todd Harvey.

I bought a 98 4x4 durango a few weeks ago and have noticed that if the door is locked and my son tried to unlock it for me while sitting in there and I also try to use the keyless entry, it sets off the alarm and it takes forever for us to get it off. We're not sure even how.. we just push the locks button in both places until it finally quits. Any suggestions would be helpful because it is embarrassing to ride down the road with it honking and carrying on like it does. Thanks

abstract.women@yahoo.com.