Comments: 1-15, 16-30, 31-45, 46-60, 61
I have a 95 S10 Blazer with a 4.3 L Vortec. It's been absolutely the best vehicle I've ever had. I've bought it in 1998 with 40K+ miles and now have 140k+, mostly highway miles.
I've had problems with the egr valve also, but mine only acts up periodically and we were thinking of trading for a bigger SUV, but now have decided to keep this one until it drops. So, in thinking that we didn't want to put $300 into a valve, that in my opinion, should be recalled by GM because it is a safety hazard as the brakes are very loose and unpredictable when the valve is causing problems (by problems, I mean engine surging mostly).
To avoid replacing the valve we've paid special attention to when it acts up and have been able to pinpoint where the trouble begins. The only time the valve "acts up" is when we go on a road trip and have long stretches (over 40-50 miles) of steep rolling hills.. and get this, only while using the cruise control. So, now, when we go across the great state of Wyoming and get to the miles and miles of long rolling hills on the interstate (70 mph) I periodically override the cruise and use the gas pedal to accelerate up the hills. We tried this the last two times we went to my mom's and it prevented the engine surges and buying a $300 valve.
So, for what it's worth, maybe it's helpful advice to someone.
The only other problem I've had is minimal. My driver's window button doesn't work now and then. And it has stuck in the "down" position each time. I'm dealing with that right now and haven't determined if it's the wiring or the switch. I have to take the switch apart and play with it, put it back together then I can always get my window back up. This is the only window it's done it with and happened once over a year ago and then 3 times this summer. The guy at the salvage yard told me to check the rubber grommet between the door and the body. Check for what, I'm not sure, but I'll see if there's anything suspicious there.
Other than those two things, my blazer has been very reliable and I wouldn't think twice about driving buying another blazer.
I had fuel pump changed on 1995 blazer. It now runs out of power. The motor runs, but the car won't move. Then all at once it takes off. We changed egr valve, spider injectors, put new muffler system on it, catalyc converter, not lately, but all in the past few months. Just the fuel pump lately. Any suggestions will be appreciated. Thank you. Linda Wilson.
1995 Blazer with 4.3 Vortec. Daughter's vehicle was running fine when she brought it home. Went to start it that night and it turned over great, but didn't even attempt to fire. I thought ignition, as I see from everybody else, I should be looking at fuel. I opened top of spider manifold gave it a shot of ether and it started briefly. Where do I find the fuel pressure regulator??? I took the EGR off (real challenge to get to the bolts with the A/C compressor in the way!!} EGR is clean, so now I am chasing fuel pressure?? Should I be looking at the fuel pump too??
Your knowledge is appreciated. Send help to jeffrey.singer4@verizon.net. Thanks...J.D.
I own a 95 Chevy blazer and also have had problems with the idle. Occasionally the engine light had come on and the garage had said it was the erg valve we run it at high idle and the problem goes away. The last two weeks now occasionally the engine light is not coming on and the car will start, but when we let off the gas it dies. Also twice now it has stalled while driving. I would like to drop off at garage, but am not sure I trust them. Does anyone have an answer to what may be causing this? The first time it happened I went directly to garage and of course when I got there the car was running fine. They said it has to be happening for them to diagnose. Should I go to a dealer? I would feel better if I knew something before taking it anywhere.
Thanks Bob at goodyearc@yahoo.com.
We also have a 95 Chevy Blazer and have nothing, but problems ever since we took a 4 hr drive to visit or son in Ithaca, NY. The service engine soon light came on and rough idling. It was the EGR valve... they cleaned it... it ran OK... then it happened again!!Cleaned it again... this time...it started losing power!We have had it back in the shop and had the fuel pump changed... came back and ran fine!We drove up to Albany (1 hour away) and on way home, rough idling again and then light came on again. Brought it home, shut it off and it wouldn't restart!We did use cruise control on our trip. Now it's back in the shop and they told us it's the spider. Please advise me if anyone has had this same problem and HELP... so far we have spent soo much money on this!Is there a REAL solution to this problem?Are there any recalls?Also the ABS brakes don't seem to always work well.Thanks!E-mail me at:
gemgarnet@hotmail.com.
Thanks again! Cheri.
I own a 1995 Chevy blazer, 4.3 vortec. It is a pretty reliable vehicle even at 142,000 miles. For all of you who are having problems with stalling, rough idling, carbon build up in the intake, and egr valve the problem is most likely your fuel pressure regulator. It is usually called a "spider" on some models of the Chevy blazer. This is most likely the culprit. The part cost about $500.00 from the dealer.
I own a 95 blazer 4.3 4 door 4wd. It has 157xxx and I have beat it every mile. Also I have been in a few minor fender benders, no of which resulted in the disablement of the vehicle. I have used it to haul band equipment (stacked to the ceiling) all around the Midwest and I used it to move my family to the east coast with an overloaded u-haul trailer. While in the Midwest the vehicle experienced (intentional) off road travel on many occasions. It has been very reliable and I still use it to drive around NJ and NY and it seems to handle the traffic just fine. I did have to replace the catalytic converter, the battery, and the rear taillight. The engine has been fine with no major problems except for the tubes that connect the oil filter under the crash panel to the engine blew around 100,000. Recently the vehicle has started surging when cruising around 50 mph and around 80 mph. I have not made an effort to resolve this problem. The interior is much the worse for wear with much rattling of the plastic on bumps, but that is likely the result of the excessive loading and unloading of giant PA speakers. Also I have replaced the driver's seat. The drivers side front window does stay down from time to time, but goes up a little at a time if you leave the switch be for a moment. I assume there is a faulty solenoid somewhere that I need to replace. The seals around the front doors are noisy at speed and the driver's door has a line of surface rust where the upper front part of the door meets the rubber. I think the driver's side door could have a broken hinge weld now. Also there is now a strange smell when running the AC. Over all, considering the abuse this vehicle has experienced, it has been amazing.
I own a 94 gmc jimmy 4.3 vortec motor.. it has had 3 owners. all in the family and keep it maintained. pretty regularly.. It has been running rough. I basically have to replace the EGR valve yearly. I just replaced my Intake plenum last yr because it went bad.. and yet again they need replaced again. so its bout $230 for my egr valve and another $300 to replace my plenum again because they went bad a month past my warranty.ended..i took my plenum off and had gas in my intake.. i know there has to be something else that is causing these to go bad. I know I need to replace them, but if there is something else that can save me some money in replacing them again in the near future.. if anyone could help me or give me some advice it would b greatly appreciated..
I have a 95 Chevy Blazer 4.3 Vortec. Recently it was act like it was going to start, but would not turn over to start, even though it sounded like it would start, and would eventually start, but not willingly. I took it to my local garage and they said it was a dead battery. So I replaced the battery to find it to start fine. The next morning it continued to start rough. It continued this for two weeks after. Once again I brought it to the shop they replaced the fuel filter and the starter. All was fine until the next morning where the original problem revealed itself once again, not turning over and after fighting with it would it start. I called the garage and they say it may be the fuel pump. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what can be causing this as I don’t know what to don't? Thanks.
I don't know what this guy is talking about saying the regulator is 500 bucks. I got mine from the dealership today for $96.96 all you have to do to get to it is pull the upper manifold off. its on the back of the "spider" assy. all I did to get it out is twist a little and pull it out
blazinlowv8 on aim if you need any help.
Henry.
I own a 1995 Chevy Blazer. I recently acquired it and had problems with the ERG valve as soon as I drove it home from where it was purchased.
After having the local dealer replace it, I found information about the Tomco 2-1357 gasket online. After ordering the part from Autozone and replacing the previous gasket, I have had no problems with SES lights and rough idling.
If it does occur, it will clear up within a day. As a result my Blazer is now running better than it ever has before.
I had a starting problem with my 95 Chevy Blazer that was diagnosed as a bad fuel pump. The mechanic replaced the old fuel pump with a new one and it still did not work. The real problem was with relays in the glove compartment. They heat up and corrode the metal plugs. I replace them and it usually stops the starting, surging, and stalling problems that seem like the fuel pump. I do not know what causes the relay problem yet.
I had issues with my 95 blazer... what seemed like a fuel pump issue turned out to be a relay switch. I could never find it until read this site. Thanks.
I have a 1995 Chevy Blazer, and I have been having starting problems. A little shot of starting fluid in the intake however clears the problem up just fine. I have changed the fuel pump, fuel sending unit, fuel tank, fuel filter, the spider, the entire exhaust system and yet the starting problems persists. I am at my whit's end any ideas?
I've had 2 catalyst converter put on within a year. The mechanic says the that my gas is running to rich or it's not mixing with the proper amount of air, so I need a gas regulator. The dealership says that it will cost $515.00.
I'm looking for the best deal possible on this part.. any suggestions?
Thanks,
Jamie.