Comments: 1-15, 16-30, 31-45, 46-60, 61
Guys, if you are having trouble starting your S10 Blaze,r give it a shot of b12. Mostly it's a dirty EGR. Clean it up or replace.
I have a 1995 blazer with 185,000 miles. The only problem I have had with it is the EGR valve getting big chunks of carbon stuck in it. I take it off and clean it out in about 20 minutes. This is getting frustrating because I seem to clean it about every 25 miles now. anybody having the same problem please help. jssump@hotmail.com
Hey everyone, I've noticed a lot of people have been having a difficult time locating the Fuel Pressure Regulator on their 4.3L Vortec engines. You have to look on the side of the "spider" injection system. This will involve removing the upper intake manifold, however, it only took me about 30 minutes. After removing the manifold (make sure nothing falls into the cylinders) look on the right (passenger) side of the injector assembly. You'll see the fuel pressure regulator held on by two security star head bolts. You'll have to use a security star bit to remove them (they can be picked up at any local Advance Auto Parts for around $8.00). After removing the bolts, the regulator simply pulls straight out. You can reinstall it in reverse. Regulators can be purchased for about $30-$45 at an auto parts store. Be sure to use a new upper intake manifold gasket when reinstalling the intake.
I have a 1995 Chevy, blazer that stalls when idling, and also at times when running. I changed the egr, valve, but see no difference. I also have a bad exhaust smell? any ideas.
I own a 1995 Blazer and this has to be the absolute worst vehicle I have EVER owned! I am now on my second fuel pump in a year and a half, and yes I change my fuel filter as recommended. Of course they no longer lifetime warranty fuel pumps because of the persistent problems. I was driving down the road yesterday when this one just quit. Only putting out 17lbs of pressure. Have had a clogged radiator even after being flushed out completely which then lead to my head cracking and gasket blowing. Had to replace both knock sensors along with that repair. Exhaust is now new from the manifold back. 4 months later I had to replace the timing chain and gear. Timing didn't act funny it just bogged down my tranny which was frustrating because I didn't know what was wrong until it quit. The seal between the tranny and transfer case blew pushing all of my tranny fluid into the transfer case. Time consuming and a heck of a project for such a little seal. Wheel bearing went out which of course caused the ABS light to come on because it has a sensor in it. Everytime I walk into the parts store I hear "that's a common problem". Asked the guy if it was common for the vehicle to run. The only problem I haven't had out of it is the EGR. I cannot wait to rid myself of this car!
I have changed everything and tried everything I have read. Does anyone have any idea what the absolute fix for this problem is. Every time I fix something, the truck runs great for like a month, then it starts acting up again. This time, the the truck will start, and stall right away, no brakes, and everything listed on the blog is brand new, from the fuel pump to the egr, to the spider, to the ignition harness. PLEASE HELP.
I read the 29th Apr 2007, 10:58 posting in this forum instructing to replace the fuel pressure regulator. HALLELUJAH, it worked!!! My 1995 Blazer has had 4+ EGR valves and finally gave up and just drove it - CEL or not. Today I just went through the trouble of installing the new fuel pressure regulator. I was absolutely shocked at the amount of carbon gunk I found. That's the stuff that plugs the EGR so quickly. Anyway, the new fuel pressure regulator makes the car run GREAT and I don't believe I'll be having trouble with carbon gunk making the EGR stick anymore. Thanks to this forum!
My 96 blazer will backfire and blow up the muffler when starting cold.
Any suggestions?
Mine also blows up the muffler on cold start.
Seems to run OK once started although it is a gas pig.
With the original muffler I noticed the backfire, but it took some time to actually blow it up.
I put in a new muffler and within 2 days it blew the back off the muffler.
I see all these posts and have no plan on putting all these things in not knowing if that's the problem or not or having the same problem a week later.
I need to know exactly what to replace ONE time.
I already have plenty of things I repair regularly such as the front end which has not passed inspection once since I have owned it (6 yrs now).
Every year at inspection I have to do the front end again.
Put in an entire new brake system rotors, bearings and all and still the ABS light won't go off and the brakes lock on wet or snowey roads.
I have learned to deal with a lot and just accept the problems, but I can't do the muffler daily.
Has anybody else had the exploding muffler problem and been able to trace the cause?
HELP this car is killing me!!!
Thanks.
I have sat here reading all these comments from all you Blazer owners and I am amazed at some of the issues this vehicle has, I just purchased a 95 Blazer from the original it has 110,000 original miles on it when I purchased this vehicle it had the ses light on and a poor idle misfire I took it to a mechanic and he pulled the codes and it had a random/multiple misfire he said it needed plug wires cap and rotor we did this and the it ran 100% better. we cleared the code and it ran well for about 40 to 50 miles then it started misfiring again and the ses light came back on. I am now taking it to another shop to have them diagnose the problem, but I am skeptical that the problem can be cured for any length of time I am not as patient as a lot of you Blazer owners out there, I bought vehicle for my daughter and it has to be safe and reliable I really appreciate hearing about the cures and self diagnostics people have performed its given me a lot of information to go on feel free to comment on my comments about this vehicle P.S. if I can't fix this vehicle reliably I am going to buy a Toyota and put this thing up for sale. any takers?
I am working on a friend of mines 95 blazer. I am a master mechanic, ASE certified. The blazer stalls correct? Well, I checked the spark which is easiest to do if you have a bottle of propane. Feed the propane into one of the various tubes sticking from the intake plenum. If no spark, the propane will not allow you engine to run; If you have spark the engine will start and run since the propane if being used as fuel. Now then, I have spark. It is not the EGR valve that is your problem; This would not cause stalling especially at high road speeds. A faulty EGR would cause only rough idle if the valve is stuck open. The rough idle is due to a rich misfire because the exhaust gases that are recirculated by the valve displace the oxygen in the combustion chamber. If the valve is stuck closed the only symptom would be high Nox readings and possibly a failure at the next smog check. But back to the stalling. In October of 2007 I replaced the fuel pump: it was bad;the pump relays were good. The pump was bad because it had high electrical resistance. My next repair was the fuel inlet lines, the lines that have the shrader valve attached. The smell of raw gasoline, hard starting, rough idling were main symptoms. What really told the story was fuel pressure which rapidly bleed off after the key was turned. One of the lines had cracked and was leaking;This repair was accomplished in about mid February of this year. Now the car is stalling and, as some have written, starting up shortly afterwards. At first, I believed it was the ignition module. Why? because a bad module often exhibits the symptom of hard starting as if the vehicle were out of gas. I next drove the vehicle trying to duplicate the symptom. When I got it to quit again, I had my spark tester present. I got a nice blue spark which was what I was supposed to have. Backing up in my story, when it stalled for the first time, I felt it was due to a clogged fuel filter; the filter was indeed clogged since I could not blow through it, but still the stalling persisted.
My next hypothesis was the single injector in the spider. If the resistance is low, the current is high and could cause the computer to open the fuse, when the temperature lowers, the fuse would close and the injector would receive power until the electrical current again went high. I checked the resistance of the injector: it was 1.5 ohms. This was within the specs of 1.3 to 1.7. The fuel pressure seems to be correct, however the poppet injectors open at 52psi. Remember, if an engine dies, more than half of the cylinders are not firing. Fuel and ignition must be the problem. We know we have spark. What is affecting the fuel? We know the fuel pump is good, the filter is new, the resistance of the injector is good, the fuel regulator seems good, what can it be? On this engine, the oil pressure switch (get a Haynes manual, view the electrical diagrams) feeds power to the fuel pump. Perhaps the pressure switch is faulty? Perhaps the oil pump or the clearances of the bearings are causing low oil pressure and the switch, which requires oil pressure to keep it closed is opening, shutting off electrical current to the fuel pump? This is my next check; Pray for me. I will let you know what I found. rgillem@runner.csub.edu.
It's me again. I said pray for me, and you must have;thank you. Well here is the problem in review. 1995 blazer stalling at anytime under any circumstance. Well, this morning I decided to try and fix the blazer. Like I said in October the fuel pump failed due to high electrical resistance and was replaced. It should have had 1.8 ohms or so, but it had somewhere in the neighborhood of 300. Then there was the gas smell which was caused by a crack in the fuel inlet line. Fixing it was a cake walk, but it cost 100 bucks. Two days later the car stalled near the foot of the Grapevine on I-5, and I prayed and got it back to Bakersfield. I believed it was the fuel filter being clogged; I replaced it, but this was not the problem. I checked for spark using propane. The car idled, so I knew the problem was fuel related.
I installed a fuel pressure gauge at the Shrader valve port. The fuel pressure regulator worked perfectly, so that wasn't the problem. Again when an engine stalls, more than half the cylinders are not firing. What can cause this? Basically two
things: spark and fuel. We know its not spark, so it must be fuel. The fuel pump and the filter are good. Next, get a manual a Haynes manual;it tells you the resistance of the injector in the CPI unit. When I measured the resistance in the morning, the car had not been driven in two days, the resistance was within specification (1.5 ohms) I sought out to duplicate the problem. After about 20 minutes of driving it stalled and stopped. I had my fuel pressure gauge held to the windshild, so I could monitor it. When the car stopped, the pressure was solid @ 55 psi. I also had my propane; I used it and the vehicle tried to idle and I heard the rumble of compression; this was not a surprise. Next, since I had my multimeter, I decided to check the resistance of the CPI injector at the connector. You can see it up near the oil filler cap; it has two wires, red and blue. The resistance was so high when I measured it, the meter could not read it. I sat and watched the resistance decrease as everything cooled down. Since I've taken the plenum off twice, I decided to remove it right there beside the road. You only need a 10mm deep socket and a 9mm and a #30 torx bit. I had a friend take me to Kragens to get the CPI unit which cost about 300 scooters. That did the trick. Hopefully someone can use this info. Remember its not the EGR; a problem with this would cause rough idle and a rich smell of gasoline. Also remember you must check things especially electrical components when hot or cold. The resistance of an electrical part increases as it operates. A faulty part increases greatly to the point where it will not allow electrons to flow at the required rate. So long!
Why buy an EGR valve? Take the plug off of it, take a screw and screw it in it air tight. No more trouble. An EGR vale is a waste of space; have had mine plugged up for 3 years on my 1995 Chev S10 pickup. Never had to worry about it again..
You can't plug the EGR valves out here in Cali, won't pass smog.
Anybody's digital dash go out? What causes it. Put a test light on the fuse, doesn't seem to be getting any juice from the fuse, fuse is OK too. Could the computer be out on that part of the dash, anyone know.
Mr.Wizard fixes em and they are expensive, but I'm not sure that's it. He says 9 out of 10 times that's it, but I'm not so sure don't want to spend a bunch of money if that ain't it. Anybody?
mongrelsgear@verizon.net
I too am having similar problems with my '95 LS Blazer. My husband and I bought this used from a guy, and we found out later the miles had been rolled back. Lesson learned there. She idles real rough, but has only stalled once and thankfully, that was in a parking lot. The check engine light comes on sometimes, sometimes not. The reading was that we needed a new O2 sensor, so we paid the $50 for it and there was absolutely no change. The major problem is gas mileage. It's pathetic... my husband put in $25 (gas is a whopping $3.59 a gallon right now) and he went not even 50 miles before he ran out. This is frustrating and dangerous, since the gas gauge gives unreliable readings and the mileage changed on a whim. So after reading everything, I'm thinking fuel pressure regulator? leur_chaton@hotmail.com.