1997 Mercedes-Benz Vito 110 TDI from Belgium - Comments

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Comments: 1-15, 16-30, 31-37

11th Jan 2006, 19:19

I purchased a 108cdi Vito in 2000 and had a freezer conversion fitted. I have had a number of things go wrong such as ball joints, premature wear of the exhaust, numerous drive shaft boot kits, glow plug problems, etc... But the biggest problem with mine is the body work. I have rust everywhere and not from stone chips. When I asked MB about it their reply was " where do you have you vehicle serviced "?

To which I replied " what effect could a non franchised garage changing engine oil & filter possibly have on the paint work "? Their reply was suitably negative.

On a better note, the freezer unit has been well behaved over all.

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30th Oct 2006, 10:40

Vito 108D 1997 converted to a seven seater Taxi 197000 head gasket went central locking no longer works, slight problem with the head lights had to rewire headlights and a few other electric problems nothing major, rear brake caliper siezed. apart from that I can't really say to much bad about the 1997 Vito. This Vito works 70 to 90 hours a week and coming up to christmas it will be working longer (2 drivers Father and son)

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18th Dec 2006, 12:57

My 110cdi has cost me over £4000 in the last 3 months due to water getting in the diesel some how causing the injectors to be replaced 3 times and the diesel pump replaced 2 times, no garage can find the root to the problem can anybody help?

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12th Feb 2007, 04:39

Hi all.

In December 2005 I bought a 1999 Mercedes Vito 110 CDi, After 3 months the trouble started. The most common occurring fault is the head where one screw (screwed directly into the aluminium head) holds a fork that holds the injector into place. Because of the 2 different materials (steel and aluminium) they become less effective keeping the injector into place, causing them to leak which then causes the head to carbon up. This is a well known problem both with MB as with customers, but MB keeps this a secret and according to the dealers it never happens only to your vehicle. The same problem with the glow plugs, they are very long and also screwed directly into the aluminium. 9/10 they seize up and if you try to remove them they snap resulting removal of the head and appropriate MB hourly labour charge. I found that nobody wants to work on a MB vito apart from the stealer ships who love to see you coming. At £60 per hour + V.A.T they surely must love this problem vehicle.

Other problems apart from engine:

Ball joints

Transmission

drive shafts

Rust, Rust And Rust

heater blower

Brakes/ Brake lines

Power steering.

All the money spend, including purchase I would have had a brand new Toyota Hi-ace. It's less nicer looking, but it is Bullet proof and that is what you need if your income depends on your van.

For me never a Mercedes again.

Regards Jan Pieter Meijer.

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4th Jul 2007, 15:35

Unfortunatly Mercedes rely on their reputation, but a little to heavily with the mark 1 vito. like most Mercs the cosmetics have a habit of breaking and falling off, (they are not 2 hot at producing things from plastic). However these can be replaced by yourself easily. Rust is bad unless you keep drains clear and wax oil. watch out for pooor quality dash electrics. Economy is good especialy if you play with gearing and wheel weight. Best looking van around.

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13th Jul 2007, 01:58

I have a Merc Vito 115 cdi, on purchase it was a fairly high mileage at 60,000 miles, but I thought the merc reputation was something, along with the fact that the van has twin side loading doors, to me a very important feature, (the more I talk about this the less important it becomes) I honestly can't remember how many times it went back into my local merc garage, under warranty for things such as ABS controller replacement, knocking noises etc, now I am out of warranty and the drive shaft near side rear has broken the part alone is £405.67 + vat plus fitting. has any one else experienced this, I never buy new vehicles the vehicles I usually buy are high mileage low price old cars and not one of those have given me as much grief as this nearly new van, if any one wants to let me know anything re the drive shaft let me know kb.aerials@talktalk.net.

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4th Aug 2007, 08:10

Bought my vito 110cdi from new. had turbo's go, injectors go, central locking packed up, Head gasket went a week after rossetts serviced it (Full Service History), now I've got rust coming out the door trim on the drivers door, does anyone know if I'm covered under there warranty before I go in there to KICK OFF!!

Let us know at southdownceramics@gmail.com

Cheers People.

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9th Sep 2007, 16:50

I Have a Mercedes 108 on a T plate. Just had all four injectors replaced. The service guys had to take the engine out to get the injectors out as they were so well stuck in. Prior to this work being done it ran fine, but is now stuck in limp mode where it limits itself to 3000 revs (Sunday driver!). The garage that did the work say it it not their problem and I should replace the on board computer. Anyone got any ideas?

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14th Sep 2007, 18:40

Hi, I have the same problem with the engine being limited to 3000 rpm when it warms up. when cold and start it is OK. clutch has been changed and also the glow plugs light stays on for a about a minuet when engine is warm. can anyone help please. I was told that it is probably the clutch switch? where is this? any help will be appriciated as it is really embaressing when on the road citroen 2cv overtook me:-)

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16th Sep 2007, 12:25

Mine is doing the same too and is becoming a real pain.

I had been told about the clutch switch problem too so replaced it, but alas it didn't make any difference. By the way its located just above the clutch pedal and cost about 8 quid.

Had mine connected to a diagnostic unit at the weekend. It supplied two fault codes: P0703 Brake Signal through CAN and P1470 Charge Pressure Control. However the engineer was still none the wiser because he didn't know what they meant, and no one else in the service department could be bothered to help either. So if anyone can point me in the right direction, eg. where can these sensors? be found and what they actually mean, I would be very grateful.

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14th Nov 2007, 08:52

I bought a brand new vito in 2005 the first day it leak water from the heater into the passenger side 3 weeks later I got it back waiting for parts from germany.the vehicle as done 59000.00 km it using a lot of oil. I think the piston rings are gone. it's a poor show for mercedes benz. the driver window as gone crazy and opens and closes when it feels like it. one would think that you are buying quality the problem the vito is not assembled in germany, but in spain. maybe they should change the name to vita ole. from MR M ALCARAZ EMAIL wetherfield@mwebbiz.co.za.

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13th Dec 2007, 07:14

I have a Viano V-Class Ambiente 2.2 diesel. X-reg. It has been nothing but continuous problems since new. Now done nearly 120,000 miles, but costing a fortune to keep on the road; £4000+ this year. Full MB service record, but MB seem to be good at finding (new) faults and bad at fixing any of them.

I also have a 2001 E-Class CDE diesel 3.2. Just 34000 miles from new, but again problem after problem. All discs have already been replaced and the dealer now tells me they need replacing again! Also, the turbo recently failed leaving me with no power on the road, and a very hefty repair bill.

I will NEVER EVER touch an MB again. I would rather walk.

G McSchroot.

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1st Jan 2008, 16:45

I have a 110 Vito diesel van that will not start. Fuel system bleeding out o/k. New injectors, heater plugs, crank sensor fitted; still won't start.

Any Clues?

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30th Jan 2008, 17:39

Purchased Vito 108 on 51 plate. Very disappointed. As all the other comments, glow plug light stays on (sometimes for half hour) heater fan packed up, drive-shaft boots need changing nearly as often as the van needs diesel, and the knocking on the front end!!! been told its the steering rack, still goes through mot, but safe or not WHAT A DIN!!

I will never touch another M-B.

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7th Feb 2008, 00:57

I have a 2003 Vito. Under warranty it has been in twice for relacment of injectors. Symtom's, just won't start, but there is a slight warning preceeding this. That is it gets hrder to start, especially when cold. The dealer would only replace 1 injector at a time (not as a set). They say they don't have any simlar problems.

The car is heavy on break wear and tires, especially front. Tire fix is to use Good Year commercials (much, much better millage).

While in for repair the dealer lost a mag wheel. Also 3 out of 4 seats were damaged (the mag was refitted by a steel one). They thought I wouldn't notice and denyed liabilty for it. Had to go to a lawyer. Very poor attitude and service Mercedes Benz.

Foam fad under front mats break down, big argument to get it replaced under warranty.

Then the glow plugs failed, actually the relay. Replaced under warranty.

Now the car dies again. Out of warranty I decided to fix it myself. Unfortunatly this is while I was off work, in/out hospital for major surgeory.

Will not start, same symptoms as previous injector faults. Ordered some reco injectors, making shure that they were the upgrade that Mercedes deny. Different part number, as advised by the guenuine Mercedes workshop manuall (on disk and normally not available to the public). In disassembly, found a bolt holding the cam cover plastic cover on was broken in the hole. Also the bolt holding the injector #1 in was broken and remains seized in. 2 of 4 injectors were also seized in. Cleaned up corrosion, removed broked part of bolt, finding that it was corroded in now leaking water. Made a custom insert and fitted. Reset Obd codes (but also reports that, is not Obd compliant). Legislation requires vehcles of this year are to be Obd compliant. All asembled, would not statr. Battery on charger, using areo start, motor would splutter. Finally blead fuel through by exessive cranking and it's alive. Only revs to 3000, but it runs. I have to calibrate the injectors. I have found also the battery is iffy. The car won't start unless I put a charger on it. When sitting the battery measures 12.8v. When charging the charge current varys quite substatially (within seconds).

It seems you need a good battery, or replace the ECU. Expect to replace injectors and brakes AND, don't drive too far. Say beyond you'r first dump site (leave it there). This was my first new car and never again MB. I'll stick to the less reliable pommy cars!

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