1987 Mazda 626 LX 2.0L

Summary:

Best car I've ever driven!!!

Faults:

Alright not many things have gone wrong with this car.

When we got it the engine blew.

Seats have worn VERY badly.

That's pretty much all that's been wrong with it.

General Comments:

This car is very fast if you know how to drive it.

Very roomy and comfortable on long trips.

Not the most good looking car, but I like it.

Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? Yes

Review Date: 1st May, 2006

1987 Mazda 626 LX 2.0L

Summary:

Best car I've owned not to mention I only paid $300 for it

Faults:

The heater core was leaking when I purchased the car.

Clutch was replaced at 224,000 miles.

Heater blower motor failed at 230,000 miles.

General Comments:

This the second 626 I have owned.

This car is very comfortable for long trips. Driven from Seattle, WA to Phoenix, AZ three times in the last three years.

This not a performance car, but is by far the most reliable auto I have ever owned.

Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? Yes

Review Date: 10th September, 2005

1987 Mazda 626 LX

Summary:

Never says die!

Faults:

Revived car from being parked for several months, seems to have very little of the seals left. Changed oil, and it blew a huge cloud of smoke for 2 weeks every morning.

Left strut blew out top of housing, repaired. Awaiting similar fate for the one on the right.

Voltage regulator went bad, blew up 3 batteries before quit listening to other people. Cost the price of the car (300) to procure new alternator and install. (I had to order one from halfway across the USA. No one has parts for this vehicle in stock anymore)

Clutch is going, I anticipate this will be what stops the car. Since the motor doesn't want to stop.

Rusty gas filler line. There's also a leak somewhere on the tank, it smells strong of gas when I top off the tank. (so I don't)

General Comments:

I love this car. It's old, but can still snap my head back. There's plenty of push-you-in-your-seat as you go up the transmission.

Great mileage, pulls between 30 and 35 mpg. Which is still better than a lot of new cars.

It's not pretty, but it's comfortable and drives very smooth. As long as nothing goes wrong with it (slipping clutch!), I anticipate plenty of time for me to save up to get a newer vehicle.

I've driven several cars over the years, and few have been as reliable and durable as Mazda's have been. This nearly 20 year old car included. It starts right up on the very 1st crank by the starter. I love the manual steering. You get a great feel for the road with that type of steering. I love this car.

Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? Yes

Review Date: 25th July, 2005

1987 Mazda 626 (base model) 2.0 4 cylinder FI

Summary:

Incredibly dependable, long-lived car with some rust issues

Faults:

Clutch, 170,000 miles.

Mufflers and exhaust systems tend to rust out often, once every two years in midwest US.

Water pump, finally leaked at 220,000.

Rear struts replaced at 130,000 miles and at 190,000. Front struts started to feel bouncy around 255,000 after car sat for a while.

Rear strut towers are the Achilles' Heel of the body. Don't buy an older 626 unless you've inspected these areas thoroughly. They can rust out pretty badly, even so that the whole tower tears loose.

General Comments:

This is the best car I owned, and I would be driving it now if the rust hadn't pretty much ruined the rear strut towers.

At 250,000 miles, it still made a round trip from Minnesota to South Texas without problems. Always used 1/2 a quart of oil in 3000 miles, never more and never less.

Had a very smooth, precise 5-speed manual shift.

Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? Yes

Review Date: 2nd March, 2005

24th Jan 2008, 18:50

I have owned 5 626's, 1983 through 1987 (2 new) and have become quite adept at fixing them. The rear strut towers fail from rusting because they have a horizontal seam in the wheel-well that is caulked from the factory. Eventually the caulk loosens and water/salt do their thing to start rusting the seam apart. Using sheet metal I fabricated a patch panel which I attached with many 1/4-20 nuts and bolts instead of welding. On the '87 which I still drive (158,000) it has held up very well. I am now replacing the in-tank fuel pump ($133.) This will be my last '83-'87 as you just cannot find any that have survived the rust issues here in New England. All in all they were above average cars and I enjoyed each one.