1979 MG Midget Mk IV review from North America

Loads, but most can be attributed to age. Alternator, starter relay, various electrical issues (thank you, Lucas!), and the usual smattering of leaks.

Admittedly, it was a drivable project car from day one. One of the first thing that needed fixing was the old top: The rear window had nearly separated from the vinyl and was quite foggy. These little cars are known for leaking tops, and mine was no exception. My advice is to use turnbuckles at the lower corners, right behind the window glass, of the top, as the earlier versions did. This is far better than the cheap and non-effective velcro strips. Takes a bit of time, and you have to be willing to put a couple of new holes in your top and cockpit surround. Do this, and replace every weatherstip in the cockpit, and you'll have a nearly airtight drop-top!

One problematic area with the front ends is the lower trunion pin for the kingpin: They seize up and pretty well destroy the control arm if the maintenance has been neglected. Such was the case with my car. I had to replace both kingpins and control arms because the trunion had siezed to the kingpins and worn out the arms. So... a fair chunk of money and time later, the entire front suspension was new. Fortunately, the problem is common enough to make the parts both inexpensive and easily aquired, either through Moss Motors, Victoria British, or Winner's Circle.

Next was the tired engine and transmission. Overhauled both, though I'm still finding small issues with the work the machine shop did to the crankshaft: The number 4 conrod was not sized correctly, and promptly destroyed its bearing insert after only 300 miles. The crankpin didn't get a good finish on it either, but a bit of 800-grit took care of that. The transmission got a new set of bearings, synchro rings, layshaft, gaskets, and seals. No issues with it since.

One other little weak point was the rear axle under these things: They were made for the Bugeye originally, and its original 948cc A-series engine. The Triumph 1500 is simply too powerful for any real spirited driving... I've had to replace both halfshafts after they broke at the differential. They're not cheap!

And lastly, that blasted US-spec Zenith-Stromberg carurator! It finally kicked the bucket last year, so the car got a new pair of Mikunis from PRI, using an earlier 1300 non-smog manifold. Definitely worth the money, and not nearly as expensive or difficult to tune as the Weber DCOE. Parts are readily available at any motorcycle dealer or aftermarket supply.

Fantastic handling, when you upgrade the anti-roll bar and add one to the rear, as well as swap in poly bushings. You feel as though you're geared right to the ground! A bit of lowering makes a pretty dramatic impact, as well. Even stock, they'll suprise the heck out of more modern "sports" cars. But they do take some getting used to, as their handling is quite 'nervous'.

The power is rather anemic as delivered from British Leyland, in no small part thanks to the US's bastardizing just about everything on four wheels. But eliminate the smog equipment, swap the carb for a better one (Weber, SUs, Mikunis, Keihins.. anything, but Z-S), lose the cat and install a header, and upgrade the exhaust is enough to put it squarely in compact-car territory. The days of getting blown off by Neons are over!

The gears are too short for much highway driving. Swap in 3.7:1 gears and run 165/80R-13 tires (Toyo makes a splendid tire in that size) for an approximate 400rpm drop at 70mph.

If your seats are in good shape, they're quite comfortable, even for the taller folks! One thing the Brits knew well is how to make 'em cozy. And the heater is certainly top-rate... though it doesn't really have to work hard!

My car is used as a daily driver, accumulating about 150 miles per week. Routine maintenance is a breeze and parts are readily availble from any good parts store. I did upgrade the alternator from a stock unit to one used for a 1991-1994 Saturn. The fitment is almost perfect (you have to re-clock the housing, obtain a V-belt pulley, and replace the old connector with the GM-style) and they put out over double the amperage! Gives you a lot of extra power to play with for foglights, stereos, and such. I also relayed the headlights, to avoid putting so much power through the switch and greatly reduce the voltage drop. Not only does this make even standard headlamps considerably brighter, it's saved the headlight switch from certain death.

Overall, fantastic little car, if you're a tinkerer. Not at all difficult to upkeep, nor are they particularly expensive for most items. They are very rewarding to own and uncommon enough to attract a great deal of smiles and comments.