1986 Volvo 740 GLE 2.3 petrol

Summary:

Daggy old thing fit for a queen

Faults:

1) Front brakes overhauled. Discs needed replacing soon after purchase due to slight grab due to warping when pulling up. This problem is common in 740s. Pads replaced at the same time. ($800 all genuine)

2) Some front suspension bushes replaced.

3) A variety of lights illuminated on the dash, but the problem was tricky to source. I thought it was simply the connections behind the dash, but eventually the car just stopped quite suddenly on a motorway! After a tow back to the mechanic, I discovered an electrical wire from the alternator to the battery had worn and was shorting out. I am expecting more wires to go soon as some of the wiring in the hot engine bay is getting brittle with age. Best to replace before they go. ($180 + $150 for the tow)

4) Catalytic converter just gave up. I am replacing the whole exhaust system as it appears to be on the way out. ($700 non-genuine)

5) Engine cross member cracks. This is VERY common to 740s, but must be fixed as it will eventually snap and is a BIG job to get replaced. Look at the curved joins on either side of the oil sump when on a hoist. I am having mine welded up for next to nothing by the muffler man today.

6) The gearbox and engine are both strong. The gear selector moves a little with power on acceleeration and breaking. I had some bushes/mounts replaced, but it made no difference. I'm going to let it be.

7) I changed the standard tape to a Kenwood CD player. This wasn't too hard and with patience, you can cut out the old player from the dash piece in order to fit the new one in neatly. It looks and sounds great. This is worth doing. Who listens to tapes anymore?

8) Idle problems. This is common to older 740s and difficult to trace. I replaced all the likely culprits myself (plugs, leads, air and fuel filters, distributor cap and rotor), then gave it to the mechanic twice. He replaced the air sensor and cleaned the throttle body. It is much better now, but $500 later, it is still not as smooth as previous when cold. I think some of the problem is related to the wiring harness, which has never been replaced; they have a bad reputation in the early models. Mine seems in good condition, but there is evenidence that it is getting brittle. Nevertheless, I wont be replacing it as the job is big. I have heard that post '88 models have a better quality harness, so I would suggest going for one of these if you are considering a 740.

General Comments:

This was a one-owner company car that had been serviced by Volvo to the book. It had been well looked after and garaged so the exterior and tan leather interior look great. I bought it in August 2005, and I still have it now. I do minor services myself, but give it to a non-dealer Volvo specialist when trouble strikes. They have been very good to me. The car is not driven hard and is not used for commuting. It's been driven to Canberra a couple of times and to Byron Bay once with no problems.

It was $2500 when I purchased it, and I have spent about $2000 on it over the last twelve months, which is annoying, but I guess it is to be expected on a 20 year old car. Unfortunately, as petrol prices have sky rocketted the value of these big old cars have recently collapsed in Sydney; they appear almost un-sellable now. You would be silly to pay more than $2000 for a late model 740 in top condition. As for pre '88 models, don't pay more than $1000.

I like the way these big Volvos drive. It's a bit like driving a mattress - comfortable and relaxing. They are definately under-powered by modern standards; however, it makes up for this by providing a gentle and unhurried driving experience. It has an astonishingly good turning circle, which makes it easy to park, despite it's size. It also feels good on the freeway and cruises at 110kmh at around 2600 rpm. It's great for passengers too as the interior is roomy, light and airy. My friends love it. It's very nostalgic. It's a quintessential eighties machine.

I think most people buy old Volvos in the belief that they are safe and reliable, others like myself enjoy the lazy performance, roominess and nostalgic styling. Another plus is my 740 will not be stolen from the from inner city streets of Sydney! A late model 740 in good condition would be a good buy. As for reliability... take a reality check. The cars are 20 years old, so be prepared for maintenance bills to sort out the problems you cannot fix yourself. Even well kept examples are cheap now, but they will give you some grief, so do don't even consider buying one that has not been well looked after.

Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? Yes

Review Date: 24th October, 2005

13th Jul 2009, 23:14

We have a similar car to that of your own, 86 740 GL saloon. We have not had that many problems with her in the 5 years that we've owned her. Last years M.O.T. she failed on a soft brake pedal, this year it was a tyre, front pads & wiper blades. we tow a caravan most weekends, she pulls it with no problems. That's why we've bought a 89 740 GLE estate, as this is a really practical car with having 2 dogs. The furthest we've travelled is from HULL, in YORKSHIRE up to ALNWICK in SCOTLAND. This was completed with relative ease, including the many hills that we had to clime. We agree that these are strong old cars that just keep on going!

1986 Volvo 740 GLE 2.4 litre

Summary:

Can't kill it with an axe, prepare for electrical glitches.

Faults:

Where do I start? Strangely, I still like the car despite the following...

Rear door handle bracket broke $28.75.

Substantial front passenger floor water leaks required re-sealing of windscreen & removal of planium chamber, lifted carpet & pad & exposed a rusted floor panel $420.00.

Water still leaked, returned for further fender removal and re-seal $175.00. Car still leaks to this day if left parked in a downpour. I gave up and just live with it.

Indicators failure - electrical fault $66.00.

Partial exhaust system @ 191,000 km $265.00.

Strut bar and replace front end bushes $182.50.

Boot/trunk lock failed (containing a week's worth of freshly bought groceries - managed to pull out the ice-cream through the ski sleeve) $95.00.

Car broken into, RH rear 1/4 glass $162.60 (used glass!)

Wiring harness work (car could have potentially caught fire under the dash according to car electrician who showed me a bundle of half melted wires) $don't ask.

Radiator & cooling system work, steering rack ends & boots (clunking sound in front end since purchase, although this hasn't fully fixed the noise), intermittent dramatic loss of power, replace speedo, replace blown in-dash lighting & regular service $1249.00 @ 210,000km.

Alternator blew although car still drove for a day before it failed!

Continual rear lightbulb and day running lamp replacements.

Only one battery in 5 years, due to infrequent use of car at 208,000km.

Power antenna only goes up 1/2 way, however this doesn't worry me.

Front passenger power window weird - use the passenger door switch for down, the driver's control for up.

Headlining was replaced by previous owner.

Sun visors stay up with adhesive velcro dots.

Never a problem with parts despite being on the other side of the world, and then some, from Sweden.

General Comments:

Car still looks better outside than in. Many brittle plastic fittings have broken off and dashboard cracked in harsh sun of Australian climate despite always being garaged.

Great seats, turning circle and visibility.

Reliable engine and starting despite above dramas.

Fuel economy bad in city with aircon on. Exceptional economy on highway with aircon off in cooler weather. Aircon always frosty even when 38 degrees (aprox 100 F) & 85% humidity outside.

Braked heavily once to avoid an accident at aprox 50km/h and the car floated off to the left as if on a cushion of air, barely missing a shop front and terrified shoppers.

Have spent a lot maintaining, however considering modest purchase price and the fact it is almost 20yrs old, still cheaper than paying off & maintaining a fully computerised $50,000.00 car. I have spent so much on it now, I am reluctant to sell it as it is now running fine. I moved from a tropical climate to a cold climate and the car generally runs better. No cup holders resulting in some thermal mug disasters on passenger seat.

Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? Don't Know

Review Date: 29th April, 2005

9th May 2005, 16:25

I feel the same way! I have only had mine for less than a year (9mths roughly) and I don't ever want to part with it. and even TODAY, as I type this, my car is in the shop getting fixed, hopefully. I am a couple thousand miles shy of the 300,000 mark and it was doing good for a while. Then all the trouble started with the fuses blowing and the timing getting thrown off for whatever reason. but I couldn't complain since I had gotten it for such a descent price. Now I stress about paying for the work to get done because I am an unemployed, full-time college student who has too much pride to beg others for help. So now I am looking to learn how to fix my own car. I refuse to let this one go! I wanna keep it forever... Even after I get a new car, I want to be able to restore this car and pass it on to my children because its safe and reliable (when functional). I have said my piece, and I'm out. Enjoy your Volvos, people, appreciate it and it will not let you down (on purpose, anyway).

11th Feb 2009, 15:25

About the leak of rainwater.

I have had the same problem with my 1988 740.

At last I found the problem; it's the shutter for fresh air besides your feet.

Good luck, Chris.

10th Jan 2011, 11:57

Just bought a 1986 Volvo 740 GLE.

It's now 2011, she has 162,000 kms, no problems and runs like a dream. The only thing I had to replace was the headliner. It still has the original windshield and paint which has absolutely no rust. The timing belt was replaced 8000 kms ago in 2007!

So take care of your car and she will take care of you! Whoever owned this baby before me, thank you for well maintaining her!