1998 Ford Explorer XLT 4.0 SOHC V6

Summary:

OK, but can require some expensive repairs

Faults:

Ball joints wear out (every 60,000 miles). This is due to them being "maintenance free". They cannot be greased. Therefore, you have to replace them about ever 50k - 60k miles. Plus, to make things worse, the upper ball joints are part of the upper control arms so you have to replace the entire assembly. About $200-400 per occurrence.

Radio display quit working. This is due to the worst designed heating system I have ever seen. Heating system you ask? Yes, that's the real problem here. The heating vents are directly over the radio. Because of this, and the fact that the dash board does not "breath", the radio is subjected to large temperature swings. Eventually, a few resistors/capacitors on the radio's power board will break loose. It will still work, but without the display. You can fix/replace the radio, but it will happen again.

Need to slam on the brakes to get the heater to work. Again, this sounds really strange, but can be explained... You see, there is a plastic arm that controls the blend door (it controls hot vs cold). It tends to break which may leave the blend door to swing on its own. I have found out that if you slam on the brakes, you can get the blend door to move to a position that will allow hot air to come through. As long as you keep the heater fan on, it will stay in that position. Luckily, though, Max A/C can overpower this so I am left with either full heat or full A/C. Unfortunately, its about a $1200 fix because only the dealer will do it (due to air bags) and they have to remove the entire dash board. The newer Explorers use a more durable material for this arm.

Transfer case needed rebuilt (twice). Apparently, there are a few plastic parts in the transfer case (a pretty stupid idea if you ask me). I have managed to melt these parts twice so far. Each time has left the Explorer with only 4WD low. First time was about a $1600 fix. Second time was under warranty from the first time as it happened only 6 months later.

Transmission needed rebuilt. The transmission died about 2 days after the transfer case (above). I believe it was because of it. Another $2200 fix.

I have had many other (minor) problems that are to be expected of any vehicle. What I have listed above are what I consider major design issues. If you have a 1998 Explorer, you should expect similar problems. I have talked with others that have this vehicle and they seem to all have some of these things in common--especially the radio.

General Comments:

Other than the design issues that I listed, I really think this vehicle is all right. It is comfortable and quite powerful and is very nice to drive through the mountains. I have had it on a few true 4x4 trails and it does okay. It has low ground clearance which limits it quite a bit.

I have kept it for about 130,000 miles so it really isn't that bad. I would say that I spent about $5000 total on repairs that should not be necessary. Most of that was when the transfer case/transmission died. Still, I don't think I would buy another one. Just too many stupid design flaws.

Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? No

Review Date: 4th October, 2003

18th Jan 2005, 10:43

I have a 1998 Ford Explorer. To comment on a few issues hat have been mentioned here I have similiar problems.

The heater control valve stopped working, fortunately enough I had the heat on when it did. I have contacted the dealer and was told that I could find the HEATER CONTROL VALVE on the underside of the engine compartment/passenger side. Auto Zone does sell this unit which at last check was only $16.95...

Now as far as the transfer case, I am experiencing some grab after the thing is driven for awhile. I am going to check underneath and check my fluid level. (Hopefully before I experience a more major problem)

As far as the radio is concerned I too am without a display, BUT every now and again the thing all of a sudden works and I get full display. I noted once that I had display again, but when I activated the cigarette lighter it went out immediately. Hmmmmmmm...

There are a lot of preventitive things you can do to this SUV, but it is up to you to get it done right.

When working under the hood of this thing it is ALWAYS BEST to disconnect the battery to avoid deplyoment of your airbags.

I had to change my serpentine belt yesterday and I found it EXTREMELY simple. I first removed the top plastic cover (over the top of the engine) then removed the breater hose from the air intake body and filter housing. This gives you access to the tension arm located on the passenger side midway down the front of the engine. Routing is simple and somewhat self explanatory. When installing the belt it is easier to route it around all other pullys leaving the idler for last. Yes position the belt around the tension arm before the idler because you can easier slip the belt under the idler (since it is smooth).

If you don't know what you r doing it is best to consult your dealer. After it is their product and I have found that they are very willing to help out when neccessary. (advice wise, your going to pay for their labor)

I want to touch on the lousy way FORD has designed this truck with NO LUBRICATION POINTS on critical areas. SEALED SEALS! NUFF said! BLAH!

TIP: I shop at Auto Zone online and they have a section for repair with photos. It has come in handy several times, but some things are not explained. Again check with your dealer!

28th Jan 2005, 11:45

The heater blend door problem is very common in vintage Explorers. When my door broke a month ago, the dealer quoted $850 to fix the problem. Fortunately, there is a simple workaround that can be done in about an hour by a do-it yourselfer. The workaround restores full function to the heater door, and requires one finishing nail. (Materials) If you do a Google search on "Explorer Heater Blend Door", you should find several web sites that detail the repair.

11th Jun 2007, 15:51

I wouldn't buy this car again. The radio display quit working, rear door lock broke ($250 to fix), thermostat went out, along with minor, but expensive, repairs/maintenance to the tune of around $3000 all before 60,000 miles. At 60,900 miles the front and rear timing chains and tensioners need to be replaced as well as the left cylinder head - at least a $4000 bill. The mechanic says I should consider a new engine ($5400) because they don't know what else is going to go wrong given the problems they know about. When I pay $37K for a car I expect the engine to last more than 60K miles! Ford Customer Service says they are real sorry, but they aren't going to help out. This is the last Ford I ever buy.

1998 Ford Explorer Limited 4.0L

Summary:

A bomb waiting to explode!

Faults:

Front end was making strange noises at the time of purchase. The dealer had this fixed, but a few months after the warranty ran out, the noise came back.

The turn signal switch had to be replaced.

Various problems with the electrical system over the past two years.

The radio caught fire and needed replaced.

The four wheel drive system makes awful noises when turning and I am scared to use it.

General Comments:

I like the looks of the car. The inside is very nice and it used to drive like a dream. There are just too many problems with the vehicle.

Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? Don't Know

Review Date: 5th June, 2003

17th Jun 2003, 00:48

The 4wd system is not designed to be used on road. Occasionally I forgot to switch it over going from off to onroad and when turning there's some jarring and clonking. I think because the diff locks when in 4wd.

Even offroad on fairly solid ground where the tyres can't slip so easily, you can get the clonking noises.

21st Jul 2003, 09:04

I lease a 1998 Ford Explorer Limited. I agree with the ticking time bomb comments. From day 1 I have had problems with the front end suspension, for 2 years now my local ford dealer says there is no problem. My 94 caravan with 135 thousand miles on it rides better. Lucky for me I bought the extended warranty. The radio illumination system does not work (not covered) I have have had the front rotors replaced 3 times. Thank god - January 2004 I'm out of this lease.

26th Jun 2004, 21:08

I would have to agree with the bomb theory - A large lemon just waiting to drain your wallet... buy japanese.

13th Oct 2004, 15:11

Help 1998 Ford Explorer, creaking noises started when turning. Anyone know anything? I am clueless.

Karen Ostby.

19th Oct 2004, 11:01

I recently purchased a 98 Explorer Sport after three happy years with a 93 Explorer XLT. I checked out two Sports before settling on the second one. Both of these vehicles had broken driver's side seat recline levers which I thought (at first) was an odd coincidence. It was only after I purchased the necessary part and installed it (rather than pay Ford's $110 installation fee) that I found out how flimsy this piece really is. In no time, it is bent almost completely in half, and bending it back into shape will only hasten its fatigue and eventual break from its support. I believe this problem must be endemic to Sport models and should be recognized by Ford as such, prompting a recall or refund at least.