Faults:

Electric window switches.

Steering arm broke under pressure when locked at 45mph resulting in major crash.

Over-drive temper-mental.

General Comments:

This car is fast as hell, no mods, this car has done the 120mph on the clock without clicking on the over-drive. Very ass-happy with the RWD. This engine is something special.

Faults:

Only things to go wrong with the car.

Tail gate electrics packed up completely.

The clutch slave cylinder blew, easily repaired.

General Comments:

I bought this Volvo as a cheap hack and intend to run it into the ground towing large car transporter trailers around the country. So far the swedish brick has defied all my attempts at its destruction. The engine still runs like it is new, consumes no oil and never overheats.

Fuel economy is also excellent, I get atleast 30 mpg if I keep the revs very low and drive gently (not towing of course!). These cars have a bad reputation for drinking fuel, but mine is not at all bad in my opinion.

The cars I tow with the volvo are for racing and frequently I race other volvo estates. They are fine for relaxed cruising, but drive on agressively on a track and you run the risk of it rolling over! These cars can become very unstable when abused!

240000 miles and still going strong, I am amazed at this car. The abuse and weight it has to carry and it still comes back for more. At this mileage it is on borrowed time, but still shows no sign of dying. It has covered many thousands of miles towing more than its own weight without needing to stop to cool off or breaking down.

Soon the car will be consigned to the banger track like its cousins as serious rot in the door pillar and top of the sills has taken hold. Rust on these cars is uncommon, but for some reason 1987 models seem to be a lot more rot prone.

They are very comfortable cars, quite fast and very roomy. Driving the 240 gives you a lot of confidence. The brakes are excellent and so is the steering. Easily the best car I've ever owned. Only problem is, they are slightly boring!

As soon as this one is consigned to history I'm going to buy another. I would reccomend them to anybody.

Faults:

Very little.

Routine replacement items only.

General Comments:

VOLVO 240 - Not as Thirsty as Most People Think.

I have noticed a number of reviews and comments from people complaining that the 240 has poor fuel consumption.

I disagree, and having owned or serviced several over the years I would like to pass on my tips for ensuring economical running.

1) Everything assumes that the engine is in good condition mechanically. Check the compression. 150psi is good, 125 acceptable. Investigate any discrepancies of more than 10psi. Pour some thick oil down the bores to determine whether the wear is in the rings/bores, or the valves.

2) Set the valve clearances accurately. The engine is sensitive to errors, because it alters the timing if a gap is wrong.

3) Fit a new timing belt. Don't exceed 40,000 miles anyway, but an old belt stretches and alters the timing, also it causes the camshaft to dither if the belt is stretchy. Check that the marks etc are aligned correctly, including the distributor drive sprocket.

4) Clean out the carburettor thoroughly, and check all rubber bits for leaks or flexibility. Replace the the needle float valve, and check that the float pivot is not worn. Wear here can cause the float to stick momentarily, causing either a flat spot, flooding, or mysterious cutting out.

5) Clean out all flame traps, breather pipes, etc, and pass a suitable drill bit down the suction fitting in the inlet manifold.

6) Check that the idle bypass valve is clean, and operates with a snap when voltage is applied. Follow the book for checking the other electrical valves and vents attached to the carb or to float chamber breather pipes.

7) Check the operation of the manual choke. Make sure it really is fully off when the knob is pushed in, and that the fast idle screw bearing on the choke quadrant is set correctly. If necessary remove and file the quadrant to restore its progressive shape. (The first movement of the choke knob should increase the idling speed, but not give excessive enrichment)

8) If you have the version that injects air into the exhaust, disconnect it and block up the pipes. The valves are very subject to rust and sticking, and it is not worth messing with it trying to make it work. A symptom of it not working is popping in the exhaust, sometimes explosions that can blast the silencer to bits.

9) File and set the ignition contact points before every major journey, ie every few hundred miles. In my experience this is the bigest single cause of poor performance and increased fuel consumption. I strongly recommend fitting luminition, and then you can forget about this chore.

10) The second is forgetting to keep the carburettor dashpot filled with oil. Use engine oil, not ATF as advised, as it is thicker, and check it every hundred miles. Keep a little squirty bottle handy.

11) Fit an overdrive gearbox, and use it. It is so much easier than a 5-speed box.

12) Finally, remember speed counts. The most economical speed is 55-60 mph. Let the car slow up on hills, but give it its head going downhill. Over 60, the economy drops off sharply.

If you do all this you should get 27mpg on average, 30 or more on a long careful run.

I hope this helps someone.

Cliff Pope.