17th Nov 2005, 23:55
To the person with the jumping rpms on the 92 integra. It happened to me, and I think the problem is either your fuel relay, or ignition coil or both. It's a pretty inexpensive problem. If its hot in the cabin, it can get worse, or not start at all. Try simply playing with the relay. It should be near you fuses on the left of the wheel. Also, make sure that when you turn your key on, you hear a click. It a cheap part, and you should change it. Other than that, love your car. I sold mine, and regret it every day since. Just don't let it rust :)
20th Dec 2005, 12:43
I assure you that the problem with your RPM has to be with the electrical coil... it happened to me...
5th Apr 2006, 13:48
Your problem is the Main Relay.
Its the most common problem on these generations of Integras, with a simple replacement it will be the "reliable car" you wanted, oh by the way, I have 180,000 on mine, never a single problem, all depends on the care of the car.
Oh watch out for a leak into your passenger floor, it's a common problem too.
"Your Friendly G2 Know it all"
22nd Apr 2006, 03:19
I owned a 1992 Integra GSR (teal green outside & charcoal inside) for 10 years before it was stolen... great car... the only time it let me down is when a small electronic part in the distributor burned out every 45-50K miles... the first time the dealer fixed it on the warranty, paid for my towing and apologized profusely. The next time I was on my own... had it towed to a repair shop and it was the same problem with the same part. It cost $300 to replace. When the part burned out, the motor just died until it cooled off, then it would start again, but I couldn't get very far before it died again...
20th Jul 2006, 00:02
To the gentleman with the shuddering problem - one of your rims might be bent. I had the same problem on my '92, and the mechanic said the rim sort of "warped" over time. It got so bad that when I pulled into the shop I noticed that three of my lugs had broken and only one lug nut was holding the wheel on.
If that's the case, have fun finding a rim. They are hard to come by.
17th Aug 2006, 18:07
Is the shuttering a constant or a varied move? if it's not constant get them to check your tranny or transfer case, mine (which should have less than one litre of tranny fluid in it) had a 4 litre ice cream pail worth, it means a seal has gone and if you catch it in time very cheap, let it go for a while and you need a new transfer case and tranny.. big bucks. To the one who's car starts then second later starts it self.. check your wiring harnesses, grounds, and if you have a CD player your wires behind, I went through over 20 fuses trying to figure it out, I checked my harnesses-clean- checked my grounds-clean..behind my CD player and one of the amp wires had lost its plastic coat causing wire to touch metal thus causing my short!
6th Oct 2006, 13:26
I had the same rpm jumping problem it was my ignition coil after that my car, all of a sudden died out and started back up again, but when I pressed the gas it died out then it died out forever, it was my igniter module.
23rd Oct 2006, 20:08
I need help I started my car this morning and it turns over, but wouldn't start. So I checked the spark plugs, they were dirty so I replaced them. But still it turned over and still wouldn't start. So I check to see if there was any sparks coming from the plug. But there was none, so I thought it might be the Distributor. So I open it up and check. I don't really know if it's the problem. Because the rotor is spinning normally I think it's the ingition coil and I am trying to make sure if it is the distributor. Can anybody help me??
13th Nov 2006, 01:19
A water leak was mentioned as common. My daughter has a 93 Integra and rain leaks into the passenger compartment, through the heater fan assembly. I have tried sealing the plastic cover that supposedly seals off that area by creating a gasket with silicone. No success. Does anyone have the fix? Is there a drain that might be plugged?
1st May 2007, 11:49
I have also had some of the similar problems with my 1990 gs Integra. When you said that it seems like the engine isn't getting enough fuel you are right, its the fuel relay. The fuel relay is a very cheap and easy fix you should invest in it, but the RPM jumping I don't no wat your problem is besides maybe ur clutch is slipping.
11th Aug 2007, 13:42
I have a 1992 acura integra GS 4 door with a 1.8 engine. I went to start it one morning and the engine turned over, but would not start. So I tried it again and I did not hear the fuel pump prime. So I figured the pump was bad so I took it out and tested it and the pump works just fine. So somewhere along the line the pump is not getting any power when I try to start the engine. So if the pump is good what would be causing it not to prime? I was thinking it would be the fuel pump relay, but I am not sure. And if it is the relay where is it located?
28th Aug 2007, 14:17
Recently, I had a bearing go out of the distributor on my 1.8l Acura. It caused a loud grinding noise and caused the engine speed to fluctuate about 100rpm. Yes, the distributors are junk. It is the first time I have ever seen this problem. Other than that, I love the car. It has 108,000 miles.
30th Aug 2007, 12:05
The early 90's Acura vehicles have three very common problems, the distributor (igniter) will cause either erratic RPM operation or fail to start. test for spark if none make sure the unit has proper power source before replacing it. The distributor also are known to have internal bearing problems. The main relay (located on the drivers side by fuse panel, brown in color, about 1.5x3x2 inches has the words Main relay on it) if it has failed it will not direct battery power to the ECM or fuel pump. Test for correct power and ground feeds (the Haynes repair manual has a good diagnostic procedure in the fuel section) if test confirms the failed part replace it. The fuel pumps don't last forever, but they should be tested along with the main relay, if the relay is working properly and power is supplied to the fuel pump, but it has no fuel pressure test the pump. Once you have bench tested the pump and confirmed it has failed replace it. I recommend to anyone I know though business with these cars if they don't know the service history to replace these three items for years of break down free driving. one other note to add, the timing belts should be changed every 100,000 miles, when they break it makes a nasty mess!
I hope this helps.