About once a year I have replace worn front brake pads. The dealer where purchased charges at the wazoo, I now have a regular place that does all mech. type work, I take all four of my cars to this place.
Little things like the gas gage moving up and down (bringing on the little yellow pump icon) when the gas level reaches a level of just below full to half full. Below half full it does nothing.
The drivers side window control panel has come loose and will not stay put despite what ever measures I try. All the clips come off the posts and the panel just flops around.
Whenever it rains hard or I wash the car water does store in the hold built for the top. After a day or two it leaks out, so far it hasn't made it into the car itself.
There is good news and bad news here. On the bad side is the car is black and is like a magnet for everything on the road. I have been run into at intersections (less than a year from new) causing me to run with my lights on all the time. Parking lots, people back into it as if they cannot see it, and wildlife, last year a big deer ran right infront of it. This car is no stranger to the body shop.
The good side. During the past year, say about 85,000 miles it starting running better than when it was new. We took it on vacation last year, sort of stretched its legs and since then it is like the engine got broken in.
The car looks great when cleaned up and I try a keep it maintained. I live in Georgia so despite all the little problems it still is a great ride down south.
Your window controls sit in a piece of molding called a switch bezel. You can go to your local Chrysler dealership and get one in the proper color. Just remove your switches and place them in the new bezel. It just snaps in, the cost is less than $20.00 and you have no more aggravating window controls to flop around.
Since I posted in Jan. 04 I have since learned how to use a hanger and clean out the drain plugs underneath the frame. Since I have done this (months ago) water has never collected as before. This was a good tip and thanks for the dealer part tip as well. I will try that. 8/28/04.
I absolutely love my 96 Sebring, despite some petty issues I have had. I bought the car with 98,000 miles from a pay on the lot in Texas. It's first repair, 1,200 dollars, was a water pump, timing belt, cam and crankshaft seals. (done as a packaged repair since everything is in close proximity) The tires are pricey, too, the top is flawless as far as operation, but it is a convertible, and tears and rips are expected with the use I expose it to. (HEAT, raising and lowering, etc.) The motor mounts cost $116 dollars each, I was able to do the repair myself, about a 2.5 hour project. (Shop wanted nearly $900 dollars) I did experience a "no start" condition one time. I determined it to be a fuse, after it consistently blew "5" times. In between changing the fuses, I thought I would check the starter relay. I did pull it apart and found NOTHING wrong It has not done that since. I also have experienced a flickering oil light. It's the symbol of a oil lamp with drops coming out (lol). Anyway, it's possibly a bad sending unit. It takes fits. I have no problems with oiling, or leaks, so what gives? (Christine!) Also, I hate the brakes on this car, they feel under assisted. I replaced the rear self adjusters, and shoes, wheel cylinders, and turned the drums. Better now. The brakes still feel a little mushy to me, but who knows, I think it has something to do with the weight of the vehicle? ABS is fine, and performance too. The heater knobs cracked on the inside, requiring new ones. (Haven't bought yet). The 96 model year to me will always be special because of what it is! I see it as owning a piece of history. Long live the Sebring!!
Damn Sebring! It is so unpredictable sometimes. It travels well on the highway, yet it keeps having trounbles with the heater resistors (the component under the glove box that the heater motor plugs into.) It has had two of them installed in a month's time! What gives? Also, I keep replacing the right front rotors on this car, they keep cracking, ironically, the car seems to always brake evenly, (not pulling to the left or right when applying brakes). Oh well, please tell me if I am overlooking something on this car! e-mail response to Retrotex71@yahoo.com.
2/20/05
Jxi now has 107k.
Knock on wood, still runs very strong. Have been "looking" for another car for over a year. I have looked at, RSX, TSX, G35, Maxima, G6 and Impalla SS, but never get beyond test drive. Why take on car payments again as long the JXi is doing well?
Fixed the driver side switch housing and replaced a broken air control knob. Replaced the trunk lift supports. Now have an annoying fuel gauge problem that has the needle gauge flipping up and down until the tank becomes less than half full. I fear an inside the fuel tank sensor problem.
Oil pressure indicator comes on if the tach. reads below 500. But it doesn't happen often when it does I turn on an accessory and that kicks the revs. up. Dealer had replaced the oil sending unit and that made no difference.
Last time I replaced the front pads (4 months ago) they have squealed off and on. Next time OEM pads.
Still shines up real good and the black paint and black top still look good, spring is just around the corner!!!
I also have a 1996 sebring jx and I also have been experiencing the fuel gauge going up or down and the low fuel sighn comming on, I realy don't want to put any more money into it I already spend almost $2,000 in repairs this year excluding ball joints failure which is a recall item and chrisler picked up the tab on that one ($3,945.00 that included body damage when they snaped off.
I also have a sebring.. and have the problem with the door switches coming loose.. I just used a little super glue and have never had the problem since.
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