Try one, then you'll buy one
Battery over charging.
Went on a 5800 kilometer tour through Europe with no problems whatsoever.
One of the most comfortable and enjoyable vehicle I have had the pleasure to own and drive.
Loads of room for four adults and baggage.
Can keep a steady 100 kmh all day long.
Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? Yes
Review Date: 20th August, 2012
Ford is the best work vehicle!
Starter.
Ford makes absolutly the best work vehicles that you can buy. I've got this E-250 and it has absolutly been the strongest thing I have ever owned. The transmission will move this heavy vehicle up a steep incline without even giving it gas. I have owned a chevy, and dodge, and I am telling you from experience, ford cargo vans are the best. I put down eight as far as running costs. It is not good on gas mileage, but not doing expensive repairs makes up for it.
Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? Yes
Review Date: 14th January, 2006
A hearty truck, but with a badly designed front end
Aside from the usual (Tires, Oil Changes, Brakes, Etc.)
In order of appearance:
The first 80,000 miles were unremarkable, but at about 80,000 miles the engine blew the rings on #7 and #8 cylinders.
This gradually got worse until I replaced the motor with a rebuild at about 100,000 miles.
Around this point the seat springs and back latch started having problems, so I swapped the driver's and Passenger's seats. Bad seat would not latch in the fully upright position.
120,000 miles, left front wheel bearing suddenly goes out. Replacement bearing, rotor, and spindle have to be installed.
Around 140,000 miles, the transmission acted weird, no reverse with reverse making it drive forward!!? I got a bit angry when I was stuck and rev-ed the engine while dropping it into reverse, all of the sudden it worked correctly again. (stuck valve?)
At about 160,000 miles in short order the water pump, alternator, and fuel pressure regulator failed. I am told that I need a new drag-link, kingpins, tie-rods, basically a new front end.
A little later, the steering goes haywire, turn to the right OK, but you have to be He-Man to turn to the left. Solution: New Steering gear.
By about 200,000 miles the engine was once again having a problem with rough running. By this point the transmission (still original) was leaking about a quart of fluid every month.
By 216,000 (present mileage) cylinders 5 and 6 have no compression, and the A.O.D. transmission no longer has a reverse gear. This may be the earlier problem revisited.
Also at some point the back floor rusted through, near the wheel wells. I never noticed this tho, because of the rubber matting that covers the floor.
All in all the truck has been good, and I'm sure that almost any brand of vehicle has it's share of horror stories.
The biggest beefs I had with this truck were:
1 and 2 spark plugs are in a totally inaccessible location, I had to remove the transmission dip stick just to get to them, and then I needs a wrench with 80 universal joints to be able to remove them.
The truck had, for most of it's life, a squeal under the hood, especially in wet weather. Sounding like I had a psycho cricket on steroids in the engine compartment. A new belt would only cure this for about a month or so before it would return.
Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? Yes
Review Date: 17th May, 2003
A reliable workhorse
Blower motor at 100k.
Universal joint at 115k.
All tie rods at 130k.
King pins at 130k.
Drag link at 130k.
Front brakes at 130k.
Blower relay at 130k.
U bracket for exhaust 115k.
Battery at 120k.
Very small oil leak from somewhere and it's inconsistent. The only aspect I've been able to attribute it to is at a high RPM when hauling heavy loads.
The van seems to have developed a steering problem. From my research, this is common on Ford trucks. Not only is there play in the steering, but after having the alignment done twice, it still pulls to the right.
The passenger side door does not shut all of the time.
I only paid $1500 for the van. I use it for my band for touring. Putting 8000 miles on it in 4 weeks and then having it sit for a month is pretty common. It has never stranded us. It always starts. It has plenty of power for a 6cyl, even with 6 people in it and all of our band equipment. It even handles pretty good.
I'd like to keep it up to about 200k miles and then maybe the label will buy us something fancy like a bus that someone else can maintain.
Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? Yes
Review Date: 16th January, 2002
Your ball joints are bad. If you look at the steering box you will see a nut and a screw with a flat blade head. Break loose the nut and turn the screw in all the way. Tighten the nut. This will adjust your steering play.
Just thought I'd give an update sine I just hit 170K.
- Engine sounds just as quiet as it did when I purchased it
- Steering is acting up again. I'm going to try the advice of the commenter above. It's still not as bad as it was before 130K.
- Valve cover worked its way a bit loose dripping a bit of oil. It has since been tightened and no more oil loss.
- Had to replace a section of the exhaust because of rust.
- Flushed heater core and now the heat is blazing.
- The air intake has fallen apart for some reason. It's not a big deal to fix. I can fix it with piping from a hardware store, but still kinda odd.
- Something small went in the transmission causing it to slip. It cost about $50 to fix and had worked flawlessly since. BTW - I have the C6 three speed auto w/o OD. I know it's kinda weird.
Other than regular maintenance, everything has been pretty smooth sailing.
Upcoming plans include:
- Power steering flush
- brake system flush
- trans fluid flush again
- radiator flush again
- looking for captains chairs from a yard.
I have a 1991 E-150 5.0, that I dearly love, had 18000 miles on it when we purchased it, back in 1995, now has over 131000.
Just yesterday had the timing chain replaced and water-pump.
Need to do something about the steering, a lot of play.
AC makes a lot of noise, but still putting out cold air.
Transmission has a shifting problem.
Let me tell you about the original paint job, it still looks like new, don't know what Ford did, but sure did it right, this van still shines like a new one.
We keep thinking we should sell and go new, but love the idea of no payments. It has been a very dependable ride, has never let us down.
What does it mean when the "check engine" light comes on? I just purchased a 1991 Ford Econoline E150 and don't have any idea what to expect. I had a 1986 Ford Country Squire wagon and when the check engine light came on, it meant to check the oil.
It usually means a sensor isn't reading correctly. Often it's the oxygen sensor. Any competent shop can tell you why the light is on if you bring it in.
I have 2000 E150, troubles are starting, both exhaust manifold gaskets, new ball joints, steering box intake seal replaced, check engine light on mine was thermostat problem, only 140 dollars... 89000 miles now. All these repairs, cheaper to buy new and make payments.
6th Oct 2003, 18:49
To change out the #1 and #2 spark plugs use an extension through the right front wheel well. Its relatively easy.