30th Aug 2003, 07:29
Twins? How about triplets. Exact same problems My transmission housing even cracked open because the gears beat it up from the inside.
8th Sep 2003, 13:34
We are also having transmission problems with our 1997 Ford Taurus. I think the transmisson wil need to be replaced very soon.
19th Dec 2003, 15:26
I have a 1997 Ford Taurus G with only 83,000 miles on it.
Replaced the power steering pump twice. Replaced the auto transmission at 70,000 for $2000. Unfortunately, it didn't completely fix the trans problem, because the trans still act up when going to 2nd gear. It likes to leak engine oil, trans fluid, and coolant. Oh, I forgot.. The coolant expansion tank cracked at 50,000 miles, needed a new coolant expansion tank. The CV boot failed at 40,000 miles.. cost to repair, $400. I replaced the radiatior at 60,000 miles, but the engine still runs hot.
The Ford dealer said it is normal for the 3.0 Vulcan engine to run hot. I brought a 2003 Pontiac Sunfire to substitute for this Taurus, because I was sick and tired of making my mechanic rich... I spent over $5000 in repairs (with my own money since I didn't buy a warranty... although the warranty offered by the dealer at $1500 seemed cheap now).
So far, the 2003 Pontiac Sunfire had no problems at 40,000 miles... The Pontiac is so much more reliable than the 1997 Taurus, it is ridiculous...
I also have a 1993 Ford Explorer and it didn't rack up $5000 worth of repairs like my lemon 1997 Taurus.
Stay away from Ford Taurus, unless you want to contribute to your mechanic's retirement stock account.
26th Jan 2004, 00:10
The Taurus is a good car however, the 96 and 97 models were just terrible. The 24-valve (duratec) has better performance, gas mileage, and reliability. Unfortunately they are rare and 99% + 12 of a 1/4 of all Tauruses from 96-99 have the stupid 12-valve Vulcan engines. The models with the Vulcans have the most reported problems, plus they have poor gas-mileage and make too much noise. I brought a 97' (GL) with the Vulcan and have went through a reservoir tank and of course a transaxle. The transaxle problem resulted from Ford's poor decision to use the Mazda 626's transaxle for the entry level Taurus and Sable. Big mistake.
22nd May 2004, 17:18
Have owned cars for 25 years, but this was the first time purchasing Ford vehicles.
Own a ‘97 Taurus wagon with 55k miles and ‘99 Taurus sedan with 60k miles. Bought the ‘97 off a two year lease with 24.5k miles, and the ‘99 one year old with 18.5k miles (the ‘99 was a Hertz rental car). Simply put, the ‘99 is acceptable, but the ‘97 is a sad statement for “Job One Quality.”
Problems with the ‘99: 1) Radio display only works reliably with the headlights activated. 2) 55,826 miles: replaced gas cap that failed NJ state leak-down inspection. Note that MIL light was NOT activated as a result of failed gas cap.
Problems with the ‘97: No failures during the 36K warranty period. 1)Almost immediately following warranty period, failure of passenger-side rear (mid) power window. This has not been repaired; on the “to do” someday list. 2) 42,110 miles: Battery needed replacement. 3) 44,628: One “General” brand tire developed waddle; probably internal belt separation. Replaced two tires to keep set uniform. Note that prior to failure, tires were rotated properly and kept inflated to correct pressure. 4) 047,182 miles: Car developed warped front rotors (would shake and steering wheel vibrate during deceleration, especially from highway speeds; considered the condition a danger to my wife that uses the car). Replaced with Ford original parts. This cured problem 100%, but now the car has almost 60k miles, and problem has reappeared, but not as severe (probably after a few more thousand miles will require replacement again). Will try non-Ford parts for second replacement. 5) 049,151 miles: MIL code P0133. Replaced the bad bank 1 O2 sensor (on firewall side of engine; on exhaust manifold). This cured the problem. 6) 050,444 miles: MIL code P0340, camshaft position sensor. Replaced this part and it only lasted a few months. This is a pain to replace, but since it reoccurs, the distributor is probably going to have to be removed. Probably a worn distributor bearing. This looks like a terrible job; one of those kill the entire weekend things or worse. The sad thing is that the car functions 100% fine with the failed sensor. 7) Other things: The car has developed a small but annoying oil leak. To-be-determined if it is the pan gasket, the front seal, or the rear seal. Even the pan gasket on this car is not an easy replacement.
Positive comments: When the car is working properly, it is a joy to ride. Quite satisfied with the ‘99.
Conclusions: Forget Ford. Not sure who to purchase, and would like to purchase an American automobile. Maybe a Saturn?
27th Jun 2004, 14:12
I have a 1997 Ford Taurus GL 166K miles. I have a small problem with my car; it starts when you turn on the key everything works fine, but it won't go into gear neither backwards of forward. What could be the problem in this case???
28th Jun 2004, 15:19
I was at the light in my 97 taurus gl and when the light finally turned green my car would not go at all.
2nd Aug 2004, 14:23
I have had similar problems with my 1997 Ford Taurus also. The interior lights that won't shut off. A transmission that slips occasionally. A broken coil spring. A seized pulley for the serpentine belt. A pinhole in the coolant overflow.
20th Aug 2004, 08:55
I am having a serious problem with a 1997 Taurus GL, it was doing fine when we bought it with 49,000 miles on it. It now has 70,000 miles on it. We have gone through 2 batteries in a year. We had to replace the starter, and now the service engine soon light came on. and if you take off from a stop, my get the RPM's to about 2 grand, the car starts jerking, and then the engine will just rev like the transmission is going out. I am trying to talk my sister into selling her car before the transmission goes out.
23rd Sep 2004, 20:08
I have a 97 Ford Taurus G L, it is at 88,000 miles, one previous owner before me. I am having Transmission problems, seeking a reasonable estimate, I suddenly have about 19 mpg city driving, and moisture contamination in all the fluids.
I have maintained the car with perfect timing, yet everything seems to be going wrong all at once.
I love my car, but am seeking some answers. Finding this site has helped tremendously.
23rd Nov 2004, 21:26
The interior light staying on is an easy fix. Look at the little button on the door jam that the door pushes in to shut the light off. These switches are notorious for being sticky. Squirt a little WD40 into the switch and work it back and forth a few times. This was passed onto me from another posting and it solved the problem for me. An easy cheap fix!
19th Dec 2004, 06:03
With regard to the interior lights staying on, the switch on a '97 Taurus is inside the door above the latch. To lubricate it, shoot some WD-40 inside the latch "up" toward the door handle. Then slam the door several times. Doing this a couple times a year prevents future problems.