Well a fair few things have needed replacing, but considering the mileage and the amount of years I have owned it, it amounts to very little compared to other cars I have owned.
Both Rear Brake Calipers seized and needed replacing at £200 a side (Beware! will happen on any rear disc equiped older Nissan if the brake fluid is not changed every 3 years!).
Alternator stopped charging below 2000RPM, replaced.
Rear Strut Top Mounts started slightly knocking on rough roads, so needed replacing. (Replaced rear Strut/Shocks Inserts at same time).
Handbrake cable has broken on all 3 parts over the years (Common and around £120 for all 3 parts).
Drivers side Electric Window problems (Turned out to be a dry joint on the windows controller board in the door, if your window clicks and groans rapidly, but does not move, or will move after a few seconds, this is your problem!).
1 Complete Exhaust system, but 3 rear sections (Blows holes in rear silencer!).
Front Anti-Roll Bar Bushes.
Rear Disc Pads (due to calipers siezing).
1 Set of rear tires, 2 sets of fronts.
Both main Radiator hoses (Explode under pressure).
Radiator Fan Sensor/Bulb.
Both CV Joint Boots (split due to age).
Electric boot mounted aerial extended and then fell out, required a modifaction to a plastic peice for a cheap and reliable repair).
Sprung a slight water leak that dripped into the front interior under heavy rain, which caused a damp drivers or passenger seat, depending on angle car was parked at. Was caused by a tiny rust hole in the windscreen mounting area and a loose rubber seal. Fixed with silicone and repaired the rust hole.
Engine mounts are a little worn and will need replacing soon to get rid of slight vibration though body at idle with cold engine.
Tappets need regular adjustment (1500 miles) to keep completely silent, Book says 12,000 miles, but I can't stand any tappet noise period! Luckilly is a quick and easy job.
Oil leaks from rocker/valve cover, very common on CA engines, and caused by the silly screws that hold the cover on as the heads wear. Toss those and use bolts instead, so you can get the proper torque down and will never leak again!
Distributor cap, rotor arm and leads all replaced at 120,000 miles to prevent any future ignition issues.
Oil + Filter changed every 3000 Miles (10w40 Semi-Synthetic), Plugs changed every 9000 miles, other filters every 12,000 miles.
EFI Air Regulator ideally should be replaced, although does not cause me any issues (Engine should idle at 1200-1500RPM on a cold start, but only idles at around 900RPM, this is common and caused by the Air Regulator bolted to the inlet manifold which increases air supply to the engine to match the extra fuel during the warm up period, costs around £70. I have not replaced mine because it is not faulty enough, plus I do not have the other usual symptoms caused by it, which are hesistation when accellerating with cold engine, uneven running when cold and stalling when cold).
I think that's it, as you can see it is very little for 70,000+ miles and 6 years motoring. She has never failed an MOT, in fact the VW Dealership where I have it MOT'ed are constantly amazed at her engine, as she produces less emmisions that a brand new VW Polo! (26ppm HCC)
The interior has held up brilliantly, with no significant wear, squeeks or rattles.
The exterior is near mint condition with only a couple of tiny rust spots on the edge of the drivers door, no signs of rust underneath.
She has never failed to start, always in under 1 second, never had any engine or EFI related issues and everything including all the electrics still works.