1990 Subaru Loyale Reviews - Page 2 of 2

1990 Subaru Loyale from North America

Year of manufacture1990
First year of ownership2003
Most recent year of ownership2004
Engine and transmission Don't Know
Performance marks 8 / 10
Reliability marks 8 / 10
Comfort marks 6 / 10
Dealer Service marks 6 / 10
Running Costs (higher is cheaper) 5 / 10
Overall marks (average of all marks)
6.6 / 10
Distance when acquired31328 miles
Most recent distance32840 miles
Previous carJeep Cherokee

Summary:

This is a good, reliable vehicle with very few frills

Faults:

There has not been a single thing go wrong with this car. I knew the individual who bought it back in 1990 and they had no problems whatsoever.

General Comments:

The car handles well and is easy to drive.

There is ample head room and the interior is spacious.

The engine turns over easily and it runs quietly.

Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? Don't Know

Review Date: 8th January, 2004

1990 Subaru Loyale Nonturbo Wagon 1.8 H6 4 cylinder. from North America

Year of manufacture1990
First year of ownership1997
Most recent year of ownership2002
Engine and transmission 1.8 H6 4 cylinder. Manual
Performance marks 5 / 10
Reliability marks 3 / 10
Comfort marks 7 / 10
Running Costs (higher is cheaper) 6 / 10
Overall marks (average of all marks)
5.3 / 10
Distance when acquired90000 miles
Most recent distance94000 miles
Previous carGeo Prizm

Summary:

A high maintenance snowmobile

Faults:

Brake system issues, replaced front brake hoses, rear wheel cylinders, front pads, rear pads, will most likely need master cyl... Can't think of any other reason, but the pedal still goes to the floor when pushed.

Car leaks lots of oil, its the valve cover gaskets, need replacement. I just use thick oil and check it frequently.

Rear CV joints are shot, needing replacement, rear pass. side wheel bearings also were shot, which might have caused previous problem. Parts are very expensive on the rear-end for whatever reason.

Severe rust damage on the car, rusted through in many spots... Harmless corrosion in engine bay, but very ugly.

Plastics on the inside are too brittle and break easily.

General Comments:

The car is a solid one, and is absolutely unstoppable offroad and in even the deepest snow. However, the car has some poor design features all around. I'll list a few, but there are many more where these come from.

Front blinkers are placed as so they're nearly invisible to anyone who isn't looking at the car head-on.

Engine bay configuration makes it very hard to change spark plugs and perform other routine maintenance (AC compressor sits right over the plug).

These are just two of the problems I've run into while fixing up this car. I bought it from my dad, it had been sitting for about 2 years, I figgured I'd just throw on new oil, air, fuel filters, flush and fill the fluids, and it would be OK.. I was quite mistaken.

The car had developed a brake problem in which the pedal would nearly hit the floor before the brakes kicked in. A friend of mine suggested we change the rear wheel cyls and front hoses, which I did, at $30 per front hose, and $16 per wheel cyl. Didn't have much of an effect at all (other than draining my wallet a bit). The brakes worked, and after flushing, the problem decreased, but never left.

The car ran like a dream... for about a week. The engine is strong and the trannie shifts well, the 4wd engaged and disengaged fine, but after 6 days to a week, it developed a squeak in the rear somewhere. After some investigation, I found it was probably coming from the CV joint. Now I'm 17, and I'm no car buff, but I figgured it'd be OK for a day or two before I could get the part. I was wrong on that one. Driving home one day, the joint started knocking loud, the wheel was whipping too. I crept over to a friends house and in his garage found the wheel had a big amount of play in it. I hit the wheel nut with an impact wrench.. no luck. I think its the wheel bearings and I don't have the money to buy the CV assembly for $90 and then however much for the wheel bearings. The general concenseous here is that subaru parts are pretty expensive. No clue why, it's a 12 year old car, you'd think theyd be cheap.

It's a great car, just have a can of bondo for the rust, and be ready to baby the rear end a bit. If you plan on sending it to a shop for everything, prepare for a major investment to keep it running. Mine's only at 93k... I read about these people running Loyales until 300k, and I just wonder how.

To sum it up. The car is underpowered, and lurches its way forward with effort when full of bodies and gear. The 1st gear is really a climbing gear and as such its really very short. You run out of gear at around 15MPH and shift up to 2nd, which was really meant to kick in at 20-22Mph. Thus the bottom of 2nd gear puts you down into the 1000RPM range.. and no power at all. The car will leak oil. Even so, its still a fun car, not a race car, but a very capable snow and offroad platform. Just consider what you're getting into if you're not exactly a shop mechanic. It gets by on on highways, buts its really meant for that snow as I said. Mileage is pretty poor, its got a 15 gal tank.. I think I get about 20MPG. Parts are tough to find nowadays, and I'm told they don't even make rear brake pads anymore.

Good Luck.

Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? Yes

Review Date: 7th September, 2002

25th Jul 2008, 00:56

The auto's suck... if you drive a manual you will know. I had one and it was as solid as a brick outhouse.

25th Jan 2009, 17:00

Balljoints cause play as well, and are much more likely to go than even CV joints. They are not expensive, just a big pain to remove, as you will need a spring compressor. Subarus are OK, just not as OK as some other used cars.

Average review marks: 7.1 / 10, based on 5 reviews