26th Nov 2005, 19:51
Well, VOLVO engine is designed to burn high octane gasoline, not 87... That leak from seals on turbo oil return tube is result of high blow-by created mostly as result of using cheap gas... VOLVO cars are sometimes extremely abused. People think that by buying a VOLVO they can escape the regular maintenance that every car needs. So be careful when buying a used car even VOLVO…
30th Nov 2005, 20:26
A modern engine will produce more blow-by when burns low octane gasoline. Let get into consideration two-three facts. First the front of flame inside the combustion chamber will move rapidly instead of moving slowly and burning the whole air-fuel mixture. The unburned amount of gasoline will dilute the engine oil. The diluted oil will not help the piston rings to create a good seal around the cylinder wall, then more than normal blow-by will be produced. Furthermore the diluted oil will not protect well the entire engine anymore. Second as result of using low octane gasoline more carbon will be created into the combustion chamber. Some of this carbon will be build up into the piston-piston ring area and will not let the ring to expand well in order to create the necessary seal. Third in every engine the PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) system is designed to allow a certain amount of blow-by gases into intake manifold. When the amount of these gases is higher than normal, pressure is build up inside the crankcase. This pressure will damage engine seals and push same of the oil out from the seals as well.
30th Dec 2005, 13:33
I have a question. How do you turn off the service interval light? I am not talking about the check engine light, but the one that comes on after 10,000 miles or so many engine starts.
2nd Jun 2006, 16:31
To turn of the service light you need a device that will hook up to the OBD computer (located under front-armrest), they are pretty expensive (>100 bucks).
I have also noticed these engines run hooottt. I don't really care though.
Also, why didn't Volvo mandate 93 Octane if the engines need them!!! They say 93 is recommended, but 89 is O.K. What do you think your average person is going to buy?
20th Nov 2006, 12:33
Well if you really care about your volvo like me you'll spend that extra 15 cents a gallon.
3rd Jul 2007, 15:24
My 1998 volvo S70 GLT owner's manual says 91 octane is recommended and 87 is the minimum (these are AKI numbers, the avg of the two octane rating methods). Some cars can detect the octane being used and adjust for it, perhaps reducing power output. Does the S70 do this?
31st Jul 2007, 14:30
The Volvo S70 turbo engine requires premium gas. It simply won't run at it's best on regular 87, not to mention it will cause engine damage over time. The turbo engine in these cars as well as in the 850 (same engine) is more problematic due to the complications of the turbo systems on this motor. The non-turbo version is an excellent motor and lasts a long time if properly maintained. As for the short brake lifespan, it's true. As far as I know, all Volvos eat through brakes. I was told by my trust independent Volvo mechanic that Volvo chose to use softer material pads, which make the brakes stronger, but wear out more quickly. It's a safety issue and you know Volvo is known for safety. If you've ever driven a Volvo, you know how insanely responsive and strong the brakes are. As for the fact the S70 burns through light bulbs constantly, it's true. It's a design flaw. But replacing $2 bulbs once a month is a lot cheaper than replacing major mechanical components like most cars require. As for the issue of running hot, I've never experienced any of our 3 Volvos (240, 740, 940) running hot. Volvo did purposefully design the temp. gauge to stay at the halfway mark and not fluctuate, unlike in most vehicles where it gives you a true temp. indication. Only if the car is truly overheating will the needle move past the halfway mark.
2nd Oct 2007, 16:50
I recently purchased a 1998 Volvo S70 with 63k miles on the car. I am very pleased with the car, and the dealership did the 60k service on it as part of the deal. They also fixed all the little issues I discovered while test driving the car. Fixed the heated seat (replaced heating element), fixed the driver's door light on the jamb, replaced the wiper motor on the passenger side headlight, rotated the tires, put new brakes on the front and even fixed a few scratches and chips without me even asking. I paid $6800 and think it was well worth the money. The repairs are costly, but the dealership I went to is proud of their work and the cars they service.
14th Jul 2008, 05:22
I own a UK (English) spec 1998 S70. It has been laid up for a couple of years (engine started to keep OK). I tried to move it the other day and found that the left rear brake was seized.
Took off wheel, removed pad retaining pins and tapped to release them (assumed surface corrosion caused binding), re-assembled and tried to move. Still seized! bought service book and found hand brake has brake drums!!! Does anyone have suggestion on a fix that doesn't require disc caliper removal or any useful ideas to simplify the fix?
16th Aug 2008, 17:39
VOLVO S70 1998 Model (U.K. spec)
Further to my attempt to fix L.H.rear brake seizure, I have now tried brake caliper removal. Manuel says "remove wheel timing peg and PULL off disc/brake drum housing. I have resorted to wacking it but no joy!
What ealse can I try?
17th Sep 2008, 21:11
I am looking at a used 1998 Volvo 570 GTAS, with 111,000 miles, 2.4L I5. They are asking $7,490. Is this reasonable? I've never had a Volvo before, and I know some really like them.
Any input would be helpful! You can respond here or:
3rd Oct 2009, 22:16
This is the second review posted for my car that now has well over 100K. The first review was posted in July 2005 after 6 years of ownership. It is a 1998 S70 GLT.
The headlight issue was fixed by the additional harness per the recall. The bulbs burn out with no greater frequency than on any other car I own.
I run 89 octane per the owner's manual recommendation and have not experienced any oil leaks. The performance is better, however, with 91. I do change the oil and filter every 5K as recommended and only use full synthetic motor oil and Mann filters.
The rotors lasted 100+K and the front pads wear at +/- 50K intervals. This seems like normal maintenance to me.
In fact, except for replacing a few too fragile interior plastic bits and the door panel insert problem, no repairs on this car strike me as other than normal maintenance.
No car is perfect. No machine will continue to function at peak efficiency without replacing parts subject to wear.
Bottom line is that I am more pleased with the design, engineering, build quality and performance of this car than I was four years ago.