Comments: 1-15, 16-20
I can't believe none of the other reviews here have mentioned trouble with the fuel injectors. The injectors die all the time, because they are buried deep in the engine, which makes them get ridiculously hot. The symptoms of bad injector (s) are a rough sounding engine that has less power than normal (it sort of 'sputters'). This problem can be intermittent and weather dependent.
In about 1994, the dealer told me I had a bad injector, and it was replaced under warranty (I had to pay the $200 labor).
In 1996, another injector went bad. I did the repair myself, and found 2 of the 6 injectors were bad. They're very expensive items, $150 each or more just for the part.
Moved to a new state and about 4 years later, 2 more injectors were bad. This time I replaced all 6 (myself). About 1 month later, an injector went bad. The dealer replaced it under warranty, since I had just bought all 6 from them.
I still had to pay $200 labor.
A friend of mine bought the same year/model used in about 1999. Sure enough, his had bad injectors too.
Between my friend and I, he replaced the radio, which requires a full replacement, since the bose speakers are independently amplified. I just live with its problems.
I nursemaid my antenna, cleaning and lubricating it 3 or 4 times a year with brake fluid. It usually works, except in sub-zero weather.
The clock is dying slowly but surely. The lights on the shift box don't work or work intermittently on both my friend's and my car.
Recently I just had the water pump die, which possibly was related to the water plug falling out of the radiator, causing the engine to overheat. $700 repair, since I had the timing belt and other belts replaced with the water pump.
Its a good car overall, but the fuel injectors are a pain in the!@#%%. The other problems I can live with, as they're relatively minor. I mean, get a watch or a velcro clock if you really need to know what time it is.
Very spacious, and smooth riding.
Newer (1995+?) models apparently shouldn't have the injector problem since they aren't buried in the engine where they can overheat.
No cupholder either. : (
I am just now seeing the rough idle and power loss and have been hunting down the problem. I have suspected the injectors, but haven't ruled out the ignition module. How did you figure out which injector it was? Please respond to censo69@aol.com
I have taken my '94 Maxima to the dealership at least 3 times with terrible hesitation/stalling problems. Every time they say they cannot duplicate the problem. A few days ago I was entering a highway and had terrible intermittent hesitation problems - cars honking at me from behind - it was a nightmare, and very scary. Took it straight to the dealer and same old story - they can't duplicate the problem and say they have not heard of this before. Doesn't matter if it's hot or cold, uphill or downhill - it acts like it's not getting any fuel and just seems to lose power. Please help! Nissan won't do anything.
I own a 1992 Nissan Maxima se with auto transmition. Ever since I got the car I noticed that it has a problem such as a power loss. I currently replaced the engine due to a clog in the oil system from previous owners repair. But still the car doesn't seem to want to move. Only when I first start the car it rides normally fast and can even burn rubber on the road, but then it slowly dies out as the engine gets warmer. I have noticed that in winter since it takes the car longer to warm up it the power lasts longer, but in warmmer days it just dies. Symptoms include very slow acceleration even if you floor the pedal the car won't accelerate faster from starting position. Then at higher rpms it picks a bit of speed. I don't know what it is, I am suspecting either catalytic converter (which passed emitions test) or the knock sensor. I took it to dealer they told me that nothing is wrong with injectors and only cleaned them for me. And till this day it rides smoother acceleration and engine performance when cold, then it dies and can't even spinn wheels with V6 190 hp. Please send your responces to Sardarabad2000@yahoo.com.
Thank you.
1990 Nissan Maxima SE 230,000 miles. We purchased this car back in November 2002. On the way home in bumper to bumper traffic the top of the radiator blew off. The gauge never read anything over C. Spewing anti freeze all over the windshield and hood. Engine seems fine as it started when turned on to place on tow trailer. We towed the car to our mechanic who replaced the radiator and cap with a new one, but he said there was still pressure building up. More than what is normal, I guess. He will search for the problem Monday; but if anyone has had this problem please let me know.
Unfortunately my Maxima had tons of problems. The alternator went bad four times, the power steering hose ruptured, the ignition system went, the cooling fan blade broke off, the a/c went, the rear lights melted, the radio didn't work, the clock flickered, the transmission went out four times, and the impellers on the water pump literally corroded to nothing! Of course, the injectors (all six) went out as well! I have to say that I was quite dissapointed. But at least the car was comfortable (despite no a/c) and looked great!
You guys are too much. Drive a freakin' car into the ground and then complain... Take care of the beast. These are great cars, I have one. Use an occasional bottle of fuel injector cleaner. Buy good gas, CHANGE THE OIL. You can easily get 300,000 MILES out of these babies.
I couldn't agree more with the above comment. These are not bulldozers or tanks. If you take reasonable care and change the oil, filters, timing belt, and keep the radiator cap tight on the stupid radiator (I don't believe for a minute that it "blew off" on it's own), it will last much longer than any domestic variety while providing relatively trouble-free transportation. Also, EDUCATE yourself on the caveats of the car... what commonly goes wrong.
I made one of the above statements. I have to say that we took excellent care of our Maxima. All the maintenance was done, it was NEVER raced or driven extrememly hard. It was given 3,000 mile oil changes, practically all parts were OEM and top of the line premium fuel was ALWAYS used. The car had less than 70,000 miles when most of the troubles showed up. Don't judge others based merely on what you think.
Buy a factory service manual, I did for my daughter's 1990. It suddenly wouldn't run right very bad loping like a burned valve. Following the very detailed and excellent troubleshooting steps in the manual, I read the computer trouble code lights. These lights are on the side of the computer which is behind the console on the right side. With engine running, screw is turned clockwise full and wait for three flashes, turn back full counterclockwise and read code red lamp is tens and green, ones. Five flashes red and one flash green is 51, the injector circuit. Using an ohmmeter and following the detailed steps checking harness connectors, I located the dead #4 injector. Injector resistance should be 10-14 ohms. All it was was green corrosion on the injector and connector terminals. After cleaning, ohmmeter said all OK and car ran like silk. I don't know if other cars have a self diagnostic computer mode, but this one does, and if the check engine light comes on, it tells the problem area and can save a lot of green.
I have to agree with you. My wife drives a 91 at Tijuana Mexico and at 185K miles she started experiencing rough idle when warm (Japanese cars are more expensive because of longer life). Looks like a new O2 sensor for me, to check ECU (Engine Computer) for trouble codes and start diag mode, warm up car, and take out the ECU module (89-91 model go under the driver's dash, 85-88 under passgr seat), insert small screwdriver into hole at right side of module, turn fully counterclockwise. Now you can check codes. Green flashes are one digit, red flashes the second digit, example 12 is one red flash two green flashes.
11 - Crank Angle Sensor /Circuit
12 - Air Flow Meter/Circuit
13 - Cylinder head temp sensor
14 - Vehicle Speed Sensor
21 - Ignition Signal
22 - Fuel Pump Circuit
23 - Throttle Valve Circuit
31 - ECU control circuit
32 - EGR Function
33 - Exhaust Gas Sensor
34 - Detonation Sensor
41 - Fuel Temp Sensor (87-88 models)
42 - Fuel Temp Sensor (89 models)
43 - Throttle Sensor
45 - Injector Leak
54 - A/T Control Unit
55 - Normal Operation (No problems found)
When you do repairs, turn screw fully clockwise, then turn counterclockwise to erase any codes, your Nissan should be to the max
Good Luck!!!
I used to own a 90 Maxima. About every year or so two or more injectors would go. After having to replace a total of 8 injectors I went to Nissan looking for answers. They said its my problem not theirs. After this I will never buy another Nissan. I have a 1983 Toyota Supra which still has the original injectors. Nissan knew they screwed up, but just wouldn't admit it. I have made the switch to Toyota and will never go back.
I own a 1990 Nissan Maxima SE with over 291,000 miles. Never had a major problem. Mostly just stuff that one needs to replace anyways. I replace the spark plugs with Bosch Platinum...HUGE MISTAKE! The car hardly ran. Sputtered, stalled, and was hard to start. Something with the resistance being wrong. Had to buy the factory NGK plugs (10 bucks each) and have yet to experience the hesitation. Car just started to leak a little oil from the rear.. not sure what it is yet. Window regulator in the rear busted. Thirty dollar fix from ebay. No big deal. Overall, this car is, for lack of a better word, PERFECT.
I have a 1990 Maxima that needs new injectors. I can buy all six at a reasonable price, but is this something that I can do myself?
I used to have a 1990 Maxima. The thing looked great, but it's relyability was, at greatest, substandard.
I drive a 1992 Maxima GXE and my gas mileage sucks 3/4 to 1/4 like 187 miles. I put unleaded regular into the car so what should I do upgrade to unleaded premium. So, what is the best service station to get gas from?