1991 Oldsmobile Cutlass Reviews from North America - Page 5 of 7

1991 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme 3.1

Year of manufacture1991
First year of ownership1997
Most recent year of ownership2002
Engine and transmission 3.1 Automatic
Performance marks 9 / 10
Reliability marks 5 / 10
Comfort marks 6 / 10
Running Costs (higher is cheaper) 7 / 10
Overall marks (average of all marks)
6.8 / 10
Distance when acquired100000 miles
Most recent distance240000 miles
Previous carAudi 5000

Summary:

Typical GM

Faults:

EGR valve went 2x, both times this caused it to fail inspection.

Air conditioning went at 150000 miles.

The digital odometer went when I hit 200,000 miles. Cost $150 to fix.

Rear brakes (calipers and rotors) replace 2x.

Replaced the alternator and starter 2x.

Struts replaced on rear at 150000.

General Comments:

This was a fun car to drive, but when it broke down it was expensive to fix. I got it originally for a very good price, but I paid in upkeep.

The 3.1 engine was good running, but the brake system was a subject of class action suit (combine braking and emergency brake functions on same caliper)

Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? Yes

Review Date: 4th October, 2002

1991 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme 3.4L DOHC

Year of manufacture1991
First year of ownership1992
Most recent year of ownership2002
Engine and transmission 3.4L DOHC Automatic
Performance marks 8 / 10
Reliability marks 8 / 10
Comfort marks 10 / 10
Dealer Service marks 5 / 10
Running Costs (higher is cheaper) 3 / 10
Overall marks (average of all marks)
6.8 / 10
Distance when acquired50 miles
Most recent distance87000 miles
Previous carOldsmobile Delta 88

Summary:

If you do not have dollars to maintain it, go buy yourself a Honda

Faults:

First I need to stress that I have owned this car since it was new. One of the first major problems that I had was the alternator went bad. The first time it was covered under warranty, as well as the 2nd, 3rd and 4th times. To date I have actually put 6 in the car. The ones that were not covered, cost 450/incident. The alternator on this car is positioned in a manner which requires the engine to be dropped from the car, hence the cost. Now I must tell you what not to do. NEVER UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES give anyone a jump-start with the car. The cause of all the problems is using the car to jump-start (or getting a jump start) causes the diodes in the alternator to fry. Since I learned my very expensive lesson, it has been 3 years since a replacement. I now carry a portable jump box.

Second major problem was the transmission threw an axle at 28,000 miles, again covered under warranty. This issue was traced to the broken clip, presumably from when I racked up the front end.

Third major problem was throwing the timing belt at 50,000 miles while passing on the highway. In case you were wondering, I was doing 85 MPH when it happened. This is a $700.00 job due to the fact that the CAMS needed to be repositioned.

Next major issue, was an aluminum intake coolant fitting cracking in the block. Cost of this repair $200, due to the fact that the top half of the engine needed to be removed to re-tap the inlet.

Next major issue, power steering pump leaking, causing fluid to leak onto the timing belt. Cost of power steering pump $150. Cost to replace the timing belt that went shortly thereafter (at 80,000 miles) another $700.

Lastly are the front brakes. A set lasts about 12,000 miles. Since I learned to do them myself, these only cost 25.00/set and about an hours work.

General Comments:

Although this car is requires a lot of maintenance, on the fun-to-drive scale it is a 10. It?s top speed is 123 MPH (governor limited) and when you get it above 80 MPH the aerodynamics of the car cause it to squat down and stay firmly planted to the road.

The interior is functional and the digital dash is really cool although some people have has serious problems with them.

Due to the high maintenance costs, this is not a car to buy for the kid who is off to college.

Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? Yes

Review Date: 17th June, 2002

22nd Feb 2004, 11:03

First and foremost if you have put a new alternator in this car yourself you would know there is no reason to drop the motor. The space is tight, but dropping the motor would not do any good. So if you got charged by someone who says they had to drop the motor then I would go ask why. I have put a alternator in several of these 1991 Olds. Cutlass Supremes. As far as jumping this car or using it for jumping. The risk is there to burn out the diodes. But it is not always the case. You diodes could of been weak to start with. I have used mine to jump start and not a problem, now when you do put a new alternator in you must make sure you have a *fully* charged battery or you will damage the diodes. Rich.

Average review marks: 7.3 / 10, based on 25 reviews