1970 Dodge Charger Premium 400cid V8
ORGASMIC FEELING even if your just looking at it :)
Well my Charger is 34years old, so what can you expect? And I am the 20th owners of this car. Al previous ovners have left their mark on the car. Some things are good, but there are also many things done, that makes me want to hunt al the previous owners down, and kill them.
Interior needs a complete remake.
The 727 TF gearbox blew up last September (2003). The mechanic who opened and rebuilt the gearbox just shook his head at first, every single part in the gearbox was shot to hell. But he rebuilt it, so now it will with stand what ever I choose to throw at it during the next 34 years.
Needs a new paint job.
The engine is to LAZY!!! I've found a 440 engine, that engine will be rebuilt to make some 500+ hp.
The electrical system in the car needs to be remade. (The first thing I bought for the car after buying it was a FIRE-EXTINGUISHER. Believe me on this! -Old cars are some what fire hazardous! I've seen a couple go up in smoke..Hmm, even new cars burn, so always have a fire extinguisher in your car!!!)
When you buy a car that is this old, you'll sooner or later notice that things are not what you think they are supposed to be. These old American muscle cars have al been modified in one way or another. So if you want to buy one, make shore you do lots of reading and searching info about them. The most important thing is -When you found your dream car and go look at it. -KEEP your head COOL! Check the car closely, and check EVERYTHING, at least two times!
Here are the trouble zones regarding Dodge Chargers from 1968-1970.
1. RUST!!! Old cars rust. If a seller says the car is 100% rust free, he is lying! The car may well be striped, painted with good rust protective primer, but it will still have damage from rust. Carefully check the WHOLE car, that means to get dirty and check the underside of it as well!
Trouble rust zones are: The lower part of the rear window!! The Kickbox and the lower parts of the body. The undercarriage. The floor, specialy in the trunk. Inside of the doors.
Also check al the bushings and suspension parts.
2. Numbers matching car. Good luck finding one, and if you do, I hope you have the money to buy it! Personally I hate these no. # matching people. It's a performance car for Christ sake! They are supposed to be modified. But modified using your head! and not end up destroying the car.
3. Do NOT believe everything that the seller might say about rebuilds. Ask for receipts or work orders from car shops!
4. Before buying an old muscle car ask yourself these questions and give yourself a truthful and honest answer!
-Do I really want to buy a old car that will brake down in the worst possible situation and when you least expect it?
-Do I want to spend A lot of money for parts that may take years to find?
-Do I have the MONEY?
And the most crucial and most important question of al.
-Is my girlfriend/wife OK with this???
You must have a understanding woman, the reason is that you will end up spending A lot of time in the garage with your muscle car!
If you answer YES on every question, congrats, buy your muscle car and enjoy it.
If you answered even one question with a "Hmm" or NO. Take a deep breath and really do some soul searching before buying an old car!
And a last comment. -Don't buy an old car if you don't LOVE it with al your heart and soul! There are so few of these muscle cars left in the world, so please, if you get yourself one -PLEASE LOVE IT AND TAKE GOOD CARE OF IT! This because the future generations would have a chance to see a car that was built with the awesome recipe -IF POWER IS GOOD, THEN MORE IS BETTER!
Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? Yes
Review Date: 26th February, 2004
27th Feb 2004, 10:08
Sounds like a great car. I own a Mustang with a 351 4-barrel. Now I know you would waste me in a drag (Unless you didn't know how to street race. Them cars will rust in places I guess I would have no idea that it could rust there. I bet insurance is high on it.