You cannot blame the car because it doesn't accept aftermarket crap that was designed 10 years after the car was built, and by a different company. A carmaker could have to be psychic to predict what someone will put onto it 10 years into the future.
My '99 Civic Si has a lot of aftermarket stuff on it. The header cracked (aftermarket), the rear struts blew (aftermarket), and the check engine light goes on once in a while (aftermarket exhaust with stock O2 sensor. None of that is the car's fault. If I'd have kept it stock, I'd have had absolutely ZERO problems with the car as of right now. I recognize that the shortcomings are my fault and not the Civic's.
$27,000 uh huh...
My 95 Acura Integra has been a pleasure to own. Funny how all I have spent on it has been a new timing belt in the 185,000 miles I have driven it.
I don't pamper it either. I keep good oil in it and make sure the coolant is mixed right. Mine is lowered. Haven't blown any joints yet.
Funny how there are very, very few people that would give the car a low rating. Lots of them still on the road too.
This reviewer speaks the truth from what I gather. Honda/Acuras are insanely expensive to insure compared to other comparable cars. Theft is as nasty problem with these cars. Parts are often ridiculously expensive. It's ironic to me how a car that is reliable (meaning fewer repairs than other cars) would end up costing you MORE money to own than something cheaper and less reliable. Doesn't that offset the fact that it's more reliable? Sure, it'll break down less, but the cost to own one (insurance, maintenance, and repair costs) make it hard to justify owning one because it's reliable. Overall cost of ownership is just as valid of a point as the reliablity of a car. If a car is super reliable, what good is that when you're paying an arm and leg to insure the darn thing and god forbig something needs maintenance or repairs...$$$. I think this alone makes Acura/Honda a poor value even with typically high reliability and quality.
Yeah you shouldn't diss them all for a crappy one that you bought. Don't buy a used one from someone who didn't take care of it. If well maintained these cars are unstopable. I am currently at 296,000km with my 1995 Acura Integra RS. And there is nothing wrong with the car, the only thing I have fixed is some minor rust spots on the rear wheel wells. Amazing cars, ridiculous for the price.
I've had my 95 LS for almost 2 years now and I haven't had a single problem either. Even with my aftermarket stereo, speakers & subs, lol. The mounting was perfectly fine for me and the ONLY thing that's gone wrong on the car is a wheel speed sensor making the ABS light go on.. Big deal. The difference: I bought mine from an older woman who took great care of it and I have the receipts to prove it. Chances are, yours just wasn't taken care of. It's not the car's fault.
It's all about how you treat the car my friend, and it's true that Honda/Acura insurance is expensive, and Integras, from what I heard and seen have an issue with the rear calipers, not all of them, but you aren't the first one I hear posting that problem, but I totally encourage anyone who's interested in the car to buy it if well maintained, and of course, the more mods it has, the less reliable it gets.
I bought one with 230k on it and it ran well past 350k; then I passed it on to a family member whom still uses it.
I have a Integra, which is a theft recovery. Has anyone else experienced the issues I have, so that I know what they are, and what to do to fix them?
The temperature gauge uncontrolled readings, my "in-drive" light blinds after the vehicle has been running for about a half hour; there's this awful crunch almost when I extend the brake complete to a stop, and not always at high speeds even; the steering makes a squeak when I turn it.
I know this vehicle has been beaten prior to my purchase. The car wouldn't even start when I picked it up from the insurance lot. I am not here to complain, or say this is a bad car (I love this car just as much as my old Civic). I was just wondering if anyone know what these problems mean before I pay someone to figure it out?
Any input to what these problems are or how to fix them is greatly appreciated. Thanks.
I don't agree with insurance being more expensive by a lot! I had a Ranger and bought ANOTHER Integra, and my insurance went up 50 cents a month.. If that's what everyone's complaining about, then get offline and make some more money!! I LOVE my Integra, and I've had bagged trucks, lowered cars/trucks lifted trucks.. everything you can think of, and I've had a 94 Integra and a 95 Integra LS, and they are hands down the cheapest/easiest cars to repair and maintain. I swear by Acura/Honda.
Fan boys love these cars, and won't believe any negative reviews. I would caution anybody about buying a riced out version, as it was probably abused. I live across from a high school, and have seen they way these cars are thrashed. Engines revved to the red line for extended periods, followed by dumping the clutch for a burn-out (sometimes breaking the diff pin, CV joints, burning up the clutch).
The young owners will pay big bucks for mods, but rarely have money spend on routine maintenance. They can tell you everything about body kits and sound systems, but couldn't tell you if the timing belt was replaced. There's a reason why so many have done engine swaps, and it's not usually just the power upgrade they claim. Plus I've seen junk yards pull out high mileage engines from wrecks and sell them as low mileage JDM imports (a 140 HP 1.8L engine with nearly 200K miles was instantly turned into a 180 HP engine with 40K miles, with a magic paint marker). I wondered how so many old engines could have only 40K miles or 70K km's. You could try a DMV VIN check on the engine if a seller makes a suspicious claim on a second hand engine.
If the car you're looking at buying has been lowered, has oversized rims, dark tinted windows, fart can exhaust, and loud sound system with amps & sub box, then pay a mechanic to do a thorough inspection before purchase. Or run away and look for a car with service records driven by a mature driver (with only one or two previous owners since new).
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