24th Nov 2004, 10:49

Greetings,

I have a 1995 Road master Wagon. My Rt Rear window has the broken slider issue. The part mentioned earlier (roller) is not the part for the rear windows track. I bought one and saw it. This may be for the front window actuator? I did buy the complete assembly($180) and found this slider part cannot be removed, it is riveted to the actuator arm. Finding a junk car would be the lesser of 2 evils. Perhaps next time I will make one out of aluminum and bolt in the actuator arm?

Regards Dick M.

3rd Jun 2005, 15:15

The plastic slider is pressed onto the metal stud. You can use a clamp or vice grips for this.

The plastic will snap right on if lined up properly. It will take some force to do this. I have done several.

5th Jul 2005, 21:47

Thank you

The window roller part GM No#9666748 save me a lot of cash. It was just 23.00 for a pack of five.Drill the hole open just a little bit. And bent the track (open just a little to FORCE the roller in) Then bend back. Saves time from drilling rivet out at end of track. Lube Track when done

Good luck.

Daddy30@yahoo.com.

5th Jul 2005, 22:12

Hi

Rember all rivets can the removed. In the window case. Use a 1/4 inch drill to removed them. Place a piece of wood on the back to hold the rivet to knock the center out to drill it. Replace the with a 1/4 bolt/lock washer/ and lock tight (blue)

daddy30@yahoo.com

31st Aug 2005, 15:55

Part # 9666748, as referenced, did not look like the plastic pieces that broke in my 94 Roadmaster Estate Wagon, front passenger window. However, when I sized up with the channel track, the new plastic parts fit perfect. The new ones are round plastic pieces, versus the elongated original plastic parts that broke. Based on the design of the originals, I can see why they broke, since they cannot spin, but only can slide in the channel, causing stress points when the grease goes away. New parts as mentioned were available from gmpartsdirect.com. $22 when you include shipping, for a pack of five. I only needed two, but five was smallest pack. Will probably need some for the driver's side in due time.

Recommend that you drill out the rivets to remove the channel, and cut approx 0.25 inch off one end of the channel since both ends are crimped. This will also provide easy access to remove the broken slides in addition to sliding the new ones on without bending the channel. No need to recrimp, since the slide would never get past the rivet/bolt at the ends of the channel anyway. Taking out the channel will also provide better access to grease the channel.

When popping the plastic slides onto the studs, I recommend you do this AFTER sliding the plastic slides onto the channel and placed in the door. This will provide a better foundation to pop the plastic into place. The channel is heavy enough that you shouldn't bend it. I popped both on with a regular pair of pliers. No heating of the plastic was required. Replace the rivets with 5mm bolts, tension nuts and Loctite (blue) to connect the channel to the window assembly. Placing the nuts behind the channel is a little nimble, so be sure to place the window in a good spot for easiest access.

This is a case of ggmpartsdirect.com coming through again. Although a special order that took over two weeks, it was worth the wait.

1st Sep 2005, 11:55

One correction... part # is actually 9666748.

6th Apr 2006, 07:03

There's a great website that explains how to do the rear window (front is similar) regulator fix at: http://www.impalassforum.com/tech/interior/windowfix/index.htm

It's easier if you drill out the door handle rivets just to get access to everything. It's not that hard. Vacuum out all the drilled out stuff so the door drain holes aren't plugged.

Great pics on the website. It's for a Chevy Caprice, which is the same in this department. I found it was pretty easy to use a Dremel tool to grind off the pinched window channels, I didn't drill out the rivets on the window channel.

Something that took me awhile to figure out was: On the front doors, if you undo the two screws that hold the door handle, and the other one or two that hold the door panel lower part on, and then pop out the lower part of the door panel, you can reach up underneath and release the long switch panel that holds the window and seat switches. This is way better than the usual poking for 5 minutes with a small screwdriver to release the switch panel. That way always results in breaking out a chunk of the front of the switch panel.

Another thing about power window switches: You can take them apart. The chrome button with the black part it snaps onto can be taken off. That's what breaks often. I replaced the driver's door switch, and the old switch gave me enough parts to fix two of the single ones.

Here's an oddball: If your cruise control stops working on your Estate wagon (or sedan, though less common there), there's a good chance it's the rear center brake light. A bad bulb there or bad contacts where the light rear glass door meets the lower door are often the cause of a loss of cruise control. The cruise system is grounded through the rear brake light. No one knows why. There is a permanent fix via adding a 390 ohm resistor that is mentioned in a technical bulletin that GM brought out that few people had done. I plan on doing that.

I figure in a few years the car manufacturers will convince everyone that their SUV is too high up, and they'll bring out a long, low, V8 powered vehicle that has great seats and power everything. And it will get 25 MPG highway. Sorta like my '92 Roadmaster...

15th Apr 2006, 11:18

This thread saved me a bundle. The Buick dealership wanted $400 + to replace the ENTIRE window regulator in the right rear door of my '95 Roadmaster sedan. All I needed was the plastic slider. Thanks, Everyone!

2nd Jun 2006, 09:43

Has anyone had a problem with the engine stalling out? Our 1995 Roadmaster wagon runs and looks great, but just started stalling out when it is cold (not too cold, though... we live in Florida). The Level 3 Diagnostics state that it's a "Code 16 - Loss of low resolution signal." We've had one service shop tell us it needs a distributer kit, and another tell us it's probably the ignition module. Before I spend $1000+ on repairs, I want to get it right. Any help out there? Thanks!

1st Jan 2007, 16:03

Re: Stalling out when cold.

I had the same problem with my ’95 at about 150,000 miles. Every time it would get cool and damp, the engine would just quit. 10 minutes later it would start. You can imagine what a PITA that is during an Indiana winter.

My shop (not a dealer) replaced the “distributor” assembly and the coil. The parts and labor should cost about $800. But while the front of the engine is apart, you should consider replacing all the belts and plug wires. If the water pump is seeping, do that too. By the time you get done it’ll run $15-1800.

Be sure the shop will give you a 1 year warranty on all parts and labor, or walk out on them before they touch the car. Ten months and 20,000 miles later, my wagon started pinging and bucking on acceleration. The shop had a devil of a time trying to figure out what it was, because no codes would be stored. They finally replaced the primary ignition system again, at no charge, and the car has been running great ever since!

Morgankhat@aol.com.