14th Nov 2007, 20:19

GM P/N 2036-9895 is a guide assembly, plastic guide mounted on a bracket, which is the same shape plastic guide as the one that breaks in the '94 Roadmaster. One needs to pop out the plastic guide from the bracket prior to snapping it into the cars' regulator assembly. I didn't need to remove any rivets, just straighten the crimps at the end of the rail. As others mentioned, no need to re-crimp the end of the rail. I positioned the rail/window so that I had best access to the guide and used a C-clamp to apply pressure to snap the guide on; it is easier that trying to maneuver a pair of pliers it such tight quarters.

On another note, I needed to have the rear air adjustable shocks replaced. Last time they were replaced was in 2000 at the Buick dealer and they were covered by a lifetime warranty. This time the Buick dealer told me that they no longer make the shocks that work with the auto-level adjustment; they installed a replacement where one needs to manually pump air using an air valve like on a tire. Looks like the one shock that is no longer available is P/N 22064630. For auto load leveling the car had 22064630 and 22064603; now they replaced the 22064630 with 19167561. It only cost me $50.00 for the re-routing of the air line; the rest was done under warranty.

25th Jun 2008, 03:19

Sounds like good information.

6th Feb 2009, 16:11

I just got me a 95 Buick Roadmaster station wagon estate for free.

I ran into a problem with the power steering pump, but that wasn't the problem. It always started right up and ran every time, but the mechanic said the other mechanic let the car run out of gas.

Now the car was an old car and hasn't ran for a year. I end up putting 10 gal. of gas back in and the car just won't start, and if it did start it would die out after three seconds. The mechanic told me it might be the fuel pump. Can I try some gas treatment or will I have to change the fuel pump.

Somebody please help me.

24th Jul 2010, 02:53

You should change the fuel pump and the fuel filter also.

24th Aug 2010, 07:47

Hello all of you Wagonites!

Wow, I am blown away with all of the good things that the Buick Roadmaster Estate Wagon has. I am new to these treasures. I have never driven one, however I will very soon. I had seen some of these cars in the Chicagoland area over the years. I have been driving a 04 Chevy Suburban for a few years, pulling a 22' trailer. OK so here is my question. Have any of you ever pulled a big travel trailer with the Roadmaster? It seems like it has the stuff to do it. Also, I am looking at all of the Roadmasters from 91 to 96. It seems like 95 & 96 are the favored years due to the LT1 engine. Are there many other differences that I should be aware of?

I am so excited and am hunting any used car site that I can find. Any comments about the Roadmaster will be appreciated. Thanks.

Pete, pdsphoto1@mac.com.

7th Nov 2010, 19:17

I pull a car hauler with my '95 Buick Wagon routinely. There is more than adequate power. Be aware, mine has the trailer towing option and the "Touring" Suspension. Chevy calls the same feature "Sport Option" In any case, the upgraded suspension also helps the towing experience.



8th Nov 2010, 09:36

We just bought a 96 Roadmaster. Have a 92 with almost half a million miles on it. Original engine on the 92, runs like new, and does not burn oil.

For years I have made my own slides for the window problem out of a block of nylon.

The new car had a broken slide, and I bought a few of the new slide/wheels suggested. No way that part would fit the channel. Perhaps GM has the wrong part at their local office for the part number suggested. Wound up making my own slide again.

There are air shocks that fit perfectly the original for the wagon. We get ours from O'Reilly, formerly Kragen, auto store.

I have lots of experience with this car. It is perfect for the business, and for our lives filled with dogs. There is no finer car.

Joe P38rc@aol.com

28th Sep 2012, 16:35

1995 Buick Roadmaster Wagon tailgate glass: My rear hatch glass unlocks when the car is in neutral. It will continually click until I put the car into gear. The problem is the window is not fully closed. I can lock the window once I've turned the car off.