21st Feb 2006, 07:59
I have a Blazer 1997...Well same problems... (dying for no reasons, the problem was the Battery terminals and the cable to it..) also the slipping and hard shift from 1 to 2. Brake pads (one got stuck and red hot) and wipers don't work all the time...
19th Mar 2006, 08:58
If you're having the problem of your Blazer stalling at stoplights or while driving, GET IT CHECKED immediately. I was having that problem until one evening the transmission started slipping and the service engine soon light came on. I took it in to the garage the next morning. Apparently the ignition switch was failing, causing the stalling. The transmission is electronic, and was destroyed by the repeated power failures. $250 to replace the ignition switch, $3000 for a new transmission.
15th Dec 2006, 23:10
Hey, I have a 1997 blazer and after reading all this I'm starting to wonder if I should have bought it. it really scares me that the next time I'm at a red light its going to die on me. I rarely drive it out of town and I live in a -small- town, but I do run it pretty hard. I've been having some little problems with the brakes and something in the engine, are all these problems going to happen to me too? man, I hope not, from what you guys are saying, its going to cost me a lot of money I'm not going to have with going to college to pay for this, is there any way to get ahead of the game and know when these problems are going to happen and catch them before they run me into the ground?
14th Jul 2007, 15:02
Does anyone know what tools I would need to remove a power brake booster from a 1996 Chevrolet Lumina.
19th Oct 2007, 13:02
How in God's name to you get the Starter out of the '97 Blazer. By all accounts it looks like they built the engine, and then placed the body over it.
17th Jan 2008, 13:32
To the guy who wants to know how to get the starter off the 97 blazer, I had the same problem, turn it upside down and it will slide right out.
17th Jan 2008, 13:34
To the guy having problems with the blazer dying going down the road, I had the same thing; it was the ignition switch in the steering column, not the key switch. It would turn itself off. Try changing it; it was about 90 bucks, but fixed the problem.
24th Feb 2008, 17:54
1997 jimmy rode fine last night although service engine light been going on and off and ABS light glowing on and off too now it starts fine heat work motors on, but won't shift into drive netural won't shift its stuck in park. if anyone out there can you tell me what you think it is.
21st Jul 2008, 09:42
I have the 97 blazer and have the same problem with the wipers, the hard shift, fuel gage. I found that removing and replugging in the wiper motor wire harness corrects it for a month or so, which leads me to think corrosion on the connectors. I spoke with a chevy transmission specialist, and they said to replace the filter and fluid and it should correct the issue. The fuel gage on the other hand, fuel pump replacement is the only solution. The dieing at red lights? Not here!! It's ran beautifully and it has 112000 miles. I do know that the air conditioning will stop cooling for lack of refrigerant, but no evidence of leakage, but it's the first Chevy I've had in 20 years that ran as good as this does. The other 2 ran me over a grand in parts and still wanted more. I can't complain though with this truck regardless. The only thing major so far is the control arm was left loose by a so called certified mechanic, and he cost me 2 tires from a messed up alignment.
8th Mar 2010, 01:39
Just got a 1997 Blazer - paid $300 for it, and it purrs like a kitten. But just found out that it will cost me $1,400 to get it on road. But after reading this blog, I am hoping to save a few $$$ just on replacing fuel pressure regulator, instead of the spider. And the entire front end seems to be shot. Luckily the guy I purchased it from had already done all brake related stuff and some. Will have to keep my eyes open on the rest, and hopefully not the wallet.
Note: That this will be no more than a part time truck. I no longer depend on a GMC product as I had a bad Hummer H3 exp. summer 2009. * (86"89" 420SEL Mercedes) * (97" S-10 Blazer) Got to have something to haul trash in.
God bless us all, we need it!!!
12th Aug 2010, 21:26
I bought a nice 1997 Chevy Blazer for 2500. 120 thousand miles. Clean as can be.
I have had this for 7 months, and already have had the A/C compressor replaced, the key in ignition alarm removed, fuel pump replaced (880.00), new battery, and the window in the back rattles in the cold weather???
Yeah, now I'm at 130000 and am hoping it keeps going. Not looking forward to the transmission problems that I'm sure are sure to come!!!
I can feel that it slips from 1-2, and once in a while, the check engine light comes on, and I had it checked, and it's related to the transmission. I just reset the battery to remove the light.
Also the air bag light stays on!!! Problems, problems.
I have a love hate relationship with this SUV. Today it's hate!! 880 for the fuel pump and filter plus tax and labor!!! Worst day ever!!! :(
22nd Aug 2010, 16:20
Just had to replace the fuel pump in my '97 Blazer at 141,443 miles -- did it ourselves, and now the gas gauge doesn't work. Clearly we missed it in the replacement process! Other than the water pump a few years ago, these are the only major problems I've had with it in 9 years. Shop estimates of the fuel pump were $600-$820. Actual pump cost $200 -- filter was $8. Kudos to my 22 year old son for taking on this job!
29th Aug 2010, 20:32
I bought a 97 Blazer. The windows wouldn't work and the fan motor wouldn't work either. I replaced the ignition switch the higher part not the key part. It seems to be working now. I have to get it running for the wife and hope I don't have the same problems I had with the 88 Blazer I bought 6 years ago I. don't even want to get started on that one. It's just a money pit.
10th Jul 2011, 22:17
I have had the same problem. It ended up having a fuel leak inside the intake. Spider injection. It was flooding out and shutting down. It would start back up after sitting a while. It didn't put off a strong odor either. Also could be the PCM, which is the computer, that could be bad, and explains why it isn't throwing codes or check engine light. We spent a small fortune til we figured it out. Hope this helps someone.
19th Jul 2011, 18:43
Just have to add my 2 cents. My '97 2wd, 4 door just turned 209k. The original transmission works fine. There's a small, small leak at the front that I'm watching, nothing changing since I bought it at 205k. Rear end pinion gear leaks somewhat also.
Other than that, nothing else wrong other than A/C disconnected. All electrics work, the vehicle looks good.
Through receipts, I see it has been worked on through the years, including the intake gasket being replaced around 100k. But it has ran reliably & normally in the last 8 months I've owned it. Most pleased.