2000 Chevrolet Monte Carlo LS from North America - Comments

Problem 1: Brake rotors needed to be turned a week after I purchased the car due to shuttering when the brakes were applied.

Problem 2: A clunking noise could be heard and felt making slow speed left turns. Mid steering shaft needed to be replaced at 27,500.

Problem 3: Clicking sound coming from under the car. Engine cradle had to be replaced at 28,500.

Problem 4: A lot of noise in the transmission when accelerating slowly in wet conditions. Told this was normal by dealership. This problem still occurs.

Problem 5: Tie rod end had to be replaced at 37,000. This cost approximately $250 including labor and parts.

Problem 6: Brake rotors again needed to be turned at 37,000 due to excessive shuttering during braking. This cost approx. $60.

Problem 7: Clicking sound returned from under the car at 45,000. Assuming it is engine cradle again.

Problem 8: Given up on fixing brake rotors at 45,000. Will have to live with the shuttering until I can find quality ones from an after-market dealer.

Problem 9: Random non-starts since 30,000; turning the ignition and the car's starter just spinning, but never starting the engine. This problem is progressively getting worse.

Problem 10: Car has developed a habit of "shifting" around in the road at 55,000 during hard acceleration. The cause of this problem is unknown.

Problem 11: "Low Tire Pressure" light comes on at will and has done so since 35,000. Given up on determining the cause.

Problem 12: Left, rear speaker developed a random rattle at 30,000. Dealer could never find the problem and did not replace the speaker, but was told I could have a new speaker installed for $120 to stop the problem. Now it rattles constantly at anything over mid-volume.

Problem 13: Suspension has gotten progressively worse in the past year. Since approx. 36,000, the car has gone from riding like a large car to a small one.

Due to my state's law, I could not "Lemon" this car or it would have been gone long ago. I was told by the dealer that they would do nothing other than trade-in my car at a substantial loss and sell a new car to me. This new car would not have been my choice, but their's since they only dealt in Dodge products.

All of the miles since 24,680 have been highway miles other than the occasional trip to the store. These problems, especially the brakes, should not be occurring on a car that rarely sees city, "stop and go" traffic.

All of the problems listed are real. I was a full supporter of anything made in the US before I purchased this car. Now, I am looking for a foreign car.

Problems abound in this car. If you plan on doing a lot of the repairs yourself, then you may be able to save a lot of money by buying a used one. If you buy new, be sure to trade it in at 36,000 but be warned, the trade-in value of these cars is next to nothing.

Sir,

I see that you are, or were having the same troubles that I was out of my rotors. I have a 2002 Chevrolet Monte Carlo SS. At 7,500 miles my rotors had to be machined. At 11,000 miles they were once again worn out, and I simply replaced them. I Highly recommend a set of "Power Slotted" Front and Rear rotors. The set that I purchased cost around $400 from 3800 Performance. But this included caliper paint and shipping cost. So far, I've yet to have any further problems out of my set up. :) Good luck!

We bought a 2000 monte carlo new. At about 60000 miles the fuel pump had to be replaced. We have 77000 miles on it now and haven't had any more problems.

Hello.

TO comment on your "problem #10- car shifts around road during hard acceleration". SORRY, BUT THIS IS NOT A PROBLEM. THIS IS A FRONT WHEEL DRIVE CAR!!! That means the front wheels pull the car, and 2 wheel drive is actually a falacy, ONLY ONE WHEEL AT A TIME (the wheel with the most traction) pulls the car. And with front wheel drive, the same tires that pull the car turn, so when you step on it hard, especially with a car this powerful, the car will jerk to whatever side of the wheel, whichever one is pulling it. This is called "torque steer", and EVERY powerful front wheel drive car has this problem. Look it up, trust me.

To the comment on the possibility of torque steer causing the problem. Yes, I realize what this refers to. Also, realize I may know much more about cars than the average bear. Having worked on everything from this car to older model Mustangs to late model Mustangs to GTXes to CRXes (obviously FWD) to VWs (again, FWD) to Grand Ams (another FWD GM) to Tauruses (yup, FWD) to you name it, I have a bit more knowledge than you might have expected. As such, I can safely say its not torque steer that is causing the problem.

Were I to guess, I would guess it is the LSD that is going out. That, or quite possibly something else linked to the transmission that puts the power to the wheels that is not engaging properly. Were it torque steer, it would not occur at the times it does occur. I have driven more powerful FWD cars than this that were lighter and had lower gearing, the problem I am referring to does not happen on them.

Thank you for your concern, but its not that simple. And, note that I am not bashing GM so please don't get defensive. This car is a lemon. As I stated in my post heading, it is an accident waiting to happen. I am not stating these things for my health, I can assure you. Acting like I am a fool or a know-nothing proves nothing to anyone, myself included.

As for an update on this car:

I kept this car off the road for over a year and only drove it on rare occassions, but keeping the maintenance up to date as well as keeping it road worthy. Owing more than it is worth, trading was not an immediate option as I did not want to drop several thousand dollars to pay off the car and leave myself in a pickle of a spot. But, enough about my situation.

All problems I have listed still exist, some more so than others.

The brake rotors continue to need replacing, but since I don't drive it very often, I can live with it when I do. The next round of rotor turning will be the third known time in less than 64,000 miles.

The steering wheel, which I did not mention previously, continues to degrade in my hands. It is as if the coating wore off in certain spots and the foam underneath is attempting to get out.

The paint on the dash under the radio and next to the climate controls continues to come off at the slightest touch.

The transmission is showing signs of wanting to fail. I am not taking time to diagnose the problems as I am not sure where the cause may lie.

The power steering pump is beginning to whine. I rarely, if ever turn the wheel to the lock position so it should not be an overworked pump. I am thinking it is just worn out due to it being cheaply manufactured.

The valves are ticking. This, I have been told, is a common issue, but it is annoying. A model year 2000 car should not have to have the valves adjusted, even after 100,000 miles, much less 64,000.

And those are just a few of the problems I have had so far with this car. I hope to soon trade it on a Honda or Toyota or possibly another car. I need something more reliable than this.

"The paint on the dash under the radio comes off..." Seems like a minor problem to me. I also own a 2000 Monte and have had no problems. I replaced the brake pads at 45000 miles (to be expected) and other than that the brakes performed flawlessly. I am also a mechanic, and I can assure you that what you are experiencing is indeed torque steer and is not a flaw.

To the mechanic, I am afraid you were wrong, as was the gentleman prior to you. It was not torque steer, but the brake caliper (s) / ABS system. Live and learn. And if you want to know what torque steer feels like in a powerful car, take a new GTP out, or a Maxima. The 180HP / 200 lb ft Monte can't compare with the 260 and 265 HP / 280 lb ft and 255 lb ft of those cars. I said it was not torque steer, insisted, in fact. But obviously there are those out there who can diagnose problems better than myself having never seen the car, driven it, or otherwise stopped to think that maybe someone just as smart as they was out there working on the car.

I replaced the rotors and pads (again) at 70K. Rotors should last longer than 70K, am I right? Apparently not. Pads, I will grant, should be replaced every 50K or so, highway miles or not... but every 35K? Let's face the facts here. GM has cut the quality to increase the bottom line. Contracting out to the lowest bidder will do that to a car, evidently.

As for the paint under the radio being a minor issue? I'm sorry, but a car with as few miles on it as this had when this started occurring and the interior trim coming apart IS an issue. It just goes to show you what kind of quality you can expect. The paint on the exterior of the car, as well as the quality of the sheet metal, is no better.

And did I mention the remainder of the pair of needle-nose pliers I found poking through the carpet in the rear, driver's side floorboards? Anyone so inclined to blame that one on me is welcome to try. This HAD to come from the factory as its between sheetmetal (of the interior and exterior floor-panels)! I have tried to remove it, but am unable to as its just about an inch of the "needle-nose" section protruding through the carpet and interior floor pan. Minor? I think not.

Just a friendly update on the car. I would greatly appreciate being taken at my word on this car. Don't buy it unless you are looking to find some reasonably cheap transportation that has relatively good power, GREAT gas mileage, and don't mind little things being wrong with a car. It wouldn't be a bad car if you can overlook small things going wrong and doesn't mind spending (or doing it yourself) little things.

I have a 2002 Monte SS. I have had SO MANY problems with this car... and not just small problems either. Let's see if I can remember everything. Most recently, I had the transmission replaced (at 79K miles), something called a "Body Control Module" (the part was $600). I've had to have the cat converter replaced (was faulty, so it was paid for by GM). I had to have the head gaskets replaced prior to 30K miles (this after taking it to my dealer complaining that the car runs too hot. Told me nothing was wrong). Drove up north (uphill) and the car overheated. The dealer in the town I was driving to said there was water in the oil, etc., thus needing the gaskets replaced. Luckily, this was still under warranty. Had to have the valve system flushed (after the bad cat converter). Had to replace the fan assembly, and the car has begun to run too hot again, which I was told by the dealer service guy that he couldn't 'recreate' the problem. I am so frustrated! I cannot afford this car, but cannot afford to get another (this one is paid off).

I love the way this car looks, but I've had so many mechanical issues (and all of the interior 'plastic' parts falling off)...I just don't think it's worth it.

I also had a Monte Carlo. Mine was a 05 LS. The car ran good and braked good, but I did have a problem with the steering system. It was very hard to turn once the car got up to operating temp. I don't have the car no more, but that was the only problem that I had with the car the 2 1/2 months it was in my hands.

I've got an 02 SS with 77k miles.

-Steering Shaft clunking

-Replaced from rotors 3 times since 29k miles (warping)

-Front core support is rusting

-Vacuum line split causing a lean condition, easy fix.

That's about it.

I have had a lot of similar problems with my '00 SS. Most annoying is it randomly not starting. My brother who works for a Pontiac dealership said this is a common problem with models with in-dash ignition switches. It can be replaced for approx $112. In the mean time, I can "hit" the dash just below the ignition switch and it will then start.

I have also had the clunking problem for many miles. Another really annoying problem is many of my interior lights (on the dash, door panel, etc), are either burned out of very dim. Oh yeah, and the CD player stopped working. With 171,000 + miles on it, I'm planning on keeping it until it just finally dies.