2000 Chevrolet S-10 zr2 from North America - Comments

Lower ball joints-replaced uppers and lowers along w/control arm bushings-$1000.

Transfer case--had clunking and "slack" in drivetrain (in 2wd drive) --$1500 for a used one w/50,00miles.

Replaced bad alternator.

Coolant leak--bad intake manifold gasket.

Slight oil leak--bad oil filter lines.

Third door no longer unlatches.

Some of the radio lights no longer work.

I bought this truck based on its aggressive looks and previous brand loyalty associated with the older full size chevys I've owned. That being said I'm a little disapointed in the fit and finish of the interior. I know these trucks aren't made with larger people in mind, but I'm only 5'9 195lbs and with a like sized passenger it feels a little crowded. I'll chalk that up to not being used to a compact truck, and not really a design problem. However, ever since I got the truck I noticed that I seem to really "roll over" the outside edge of the drivers seat when exiting the truck. At first I made a conciencous effort to "jump out" so I wouldn't wear the edge of the seat, but 70,000 miles later I just roll out like a normal person. The seat is not amused.

Whatever passed for support on the outside of the seat is gone, and I can feel the outside hinge bracket in MY seat, unless I lean in on the armrest while I'm driving. In short--the seats suck. The carlike seating position combined with the high ride height=worn out seat cushion. Leaning inward on the armrest has loosened and broken the armrest where it mounts to the floor in the front, and caused a lot of squeaks and rattles (plastic). Also I think the seat is about 4" too short, it doesn't give good support to my knees on trips over 80 miles (did I mention I'm 5'9?).

OK, on to the 3rd door. I really liked this feature early on, it makes loading groceries and cargo really nice. On the Z71 the 3rd door is on the passenger side. For the ZR2 it's on the drivers side. Like I said before really nice, when it works. Since around 130000miles I can't get it open. The top latch works, but the bottom won't release. OK, no biggie I'll just put up the seat to load stuff like in a 2dr ext cab. The problem is the squeaking and rattling from the body instability due to the 3rd door design. During moderate bumps and cornering I have a good bit of noise due to the fact the drivers door latches to the 3rd door. I'd take that as a tradeoff for the convenience if I could still open the damn 3rd door!

Interior cheapness not withstanding, I really like the truck. When I punch the gas it really takes off. (I added the K&N filtercharger). It almost feels like a turbo--a second of lag--then FOOM! The power seems to really kick in between 20-70mph. At 140000 miles I can't complain about the transfer case going out or the ball joints. Drivability-wise I love it, I just wish it had a tighter turning radius. It seems to take as much space to turn in parking situations as a full size. I guess that's due to the wide stance suspension package. Ah well, another trade-off. It wouldn't corner as well or be as stable off road otherwise.

I just wanted to say that I have the same truck and I second everything you said about it! :) With the center arm rest squeaking, check for clearance under the truck (for lines/gas tank/etc) and you should be able to either: drill a couple more screws through the bottom or get some washers and put above the bolts, also silicone usually works well for that (I actually ran a bead along the bottom of my door panels as well to stop rattles)...With the rear door, that handle will break easy, but autozone has replacements for like $13 also on ebay you can get an aluminum handle replacement which looks good... best bet is to take your handle out disconect the rods, you can leave those black lil couplers on the rods (just need some needle nose pliers to take them off from the metal bracket) then pull the rods so the door will open, grease/oil the latchs on the top and bottom of the door and open/close a few times. You'll probably just have to adjust the plastic coupler on the rod inside the door up/down a little to get them both to work-it takes a lil time and patients and a couple scratches and some yelling, but you'll get it... :)

I have a 2000 zr2 with 100k miles. The heater flaked out, the lights on the radio died, the cd player doesn't work, the passenger seat doesn't latch and the handle fell off, the slider window latch fell off, the fuel pump went bad, I had to replace the alternator and buy two new batteries. Now the transmission fluid pours out when I drive it - I carry quarts with me. No wonder GM is in trouble.

Hi I recently bought a 2000 S-10 ZR2 and had the same problem with the 3rd door. What I found was that the latch on the bottom had rusted shut and wouldn't release, so I used my Dremel to grind the bolts off of the latch and put a new latch in. The latch is held in by 4 bolts in the bottom of the 3rd door. I also put new stainless steal bolt's and washers in.