18th Feb 2007, 15:21

Interior parts break easy because not because it's a Chevy, but because in the late 80's to early 90's all car manufactures started making crappy interiors to save cost-not just Chevy. I am strongly against plastic interior parts.

18th Feb 2007, 18:03

Quote:I am strongly against plastic interior parts.

Hah, lotsa luck on that crusade, considering that cars have been using plastic interior parts for the last 40-50 years now... would love to see a return to the "heavy metal" interiors of the 1950's...ain't gonna happen.

Ever seen a late model car whose interior has been burned up? Seat frames and steering column are all that is left... everything else burned or melted...

24th Dec 2008, 08:53

Original poster here, an end of 2008 update. I now have 170,000 miles on the truck. This year saw me replace the fuel injector "spider" assembly, for $700. Also, performed another minor tune up, plugs and wires, as well as flush the coolant and rear diff. After the tune up and injector replacement, I loaded it up with two ATV's and an 8x5 trailer full of camping gear and a buddy and proceeded to drive 500 miles to the high desert for some riding. The truck was great, excellent pulling power on steep inclines, only had to drop it down to 4th gear a few times to keep up with the 75mph flow of traffic up hills. Overall I was very impressed with the torque it had to offer.

Total cost of ownership (minus gasoline of course) this year: $2000.

23rd Dec 2010, 03:07

To the original poster..

Are these prices through a shop? Or are you buying the parts and doing it yourself?

To everyone else or SOMEBODY who can help!!!

I am looking for a Ranger or S10 or small automatic truck, and came across a few.. 93 Mazda B2200, heard mostly good news, but a little farther away I came across a 1998 S10 6cyl automatic with 113k miles. It's a single cab with A/C. Looks like a step up from base.. How are these trucks at these miles? And what things should I ask have been done? I know more about older ones and imports.. I'm not a newbie around engines, but a newbie at newer 95+ S10s. They are asking 1850.. seems low and a little too good to be true for a truck like that?? ANYBODY have any comments or opinions? I have 1500 cash and want to buy ASAP! Thanks Everybody, -Micah

Oh yeah, Merry XMAS to ALL!!!

P.s. I know early S10's can come with the crappiest motor ever! 2.8 V6 or the 4.3 V6, which is great motor if not concerned about gas mileage LOL.. What about the 1998? Just 4.3??

Thanks again!

23rd Dec 2010, 14:22

I stay away from engine flushes that can dislodge sediment. Upgrade your oil filters and use good oil. With synthetic, I watch for leaks if I switched with higher mile engines. I change some of my cars annually with Mobil 1, it's standard with my GMs. However I use Castrol oil in my 70 Chevelle, with Napa Gold Filters and zinc additive.

26th Dec 2010, 09:43

Original poster here.

I also have been keeping my eye out for a late model Ranger, but only with the 2.4L engine and manual tranny. My step father has a 3.0L V6, which is very underpowered for the horrible gas mileage he gets with it (16mpg). I like the look of the body though, it's an "edge" style body. I would recommend the 4 cylinder though, because of its history of reliability and great fuel economy (25 mpg).

I have had experience driving both the four cylinder and the 4.3L late model S-10 though, and I would never recommend the 4 to my worst enemy, due to its horrible torque rating and the fact that Hot Rodding magazine named it to the top 10 worst engines of all time. Imagine 140 ft/lbs trying to accelerate a 3500 lb. truck up an incline, and that's without driver or any cargo. And that engine doesn't like to rev, I'll tell you that. The 4 banger S-10 I drove was with the manual, and I would still have to get it up above 4000 rpms to get up a freeway ramp.

I've have nothing but praise about my 4.3, although I do know if you abuse it, it will break. I have seen a block crack in an Astrovan, allowing oil to leak into the coolant, and it's not pretty.

I would be very careful to have the vehicle fully inspected and tested by a trusted mechanic before buying one with over 100,000 miles, just to make sure it hasn't been abused.

I now have over 185,000 miles, and it's still going strong, so I can attest to its longevity.

To the previous poster: Yes, I have the truck worked on. I could do a lot of it myself, but I do not have the time, as I run my own electrical contracting business. Plus, he warranties his work and materials for 2 years. It's worth it to me to pay extra to someone I trust and backs up his work, and over the past 15 years, I have never had a problem with any of the work done, and I have 4 vehicles that go in.

Again to a previous poster: I stopped using the GUNK engine cleaner after I was sure I had the engine as clean as it would get. I used it, because for the first 75,000 miles I used standard oil, and noticed how much sludge was coming out after every oil change. While I was switching over to synthetic, I was in a hurry to expedite the process, and used GUNK for about 4 oil changes. I never had a problem (knock on wood) with dislodged particles, but maybe I was lucky. I would only recommend GUNK or similar products to people who do not use synthetic oil and/or do not change their oil regularly. Newer engines do not need to be serviced as often as older engines do. And the 4.3L engine design is from the early 80's, so it's not as efficient as say a modern 3.5L Honda engine. But man does it do the job in my little truck!

19th Mar 2015, 04:39

It's best to break your habit of slowing your pickup with transmission "engine braking"... brake pads are much cheaper than transmissions... it may work well with big rigs due to their weight. Drive smart.

19th Mar 2015, 20:32

Engine braking is actually harmless to the truck, so being able to slow down without wearing out brake pads is the better way to go.

20th Mar 2015, 19:57

This advice only makes sense for someone who would pay $350 to have the pads replaced and the rotors turned.

21st Mar 2015, 15:44

That's the fun of driving, especially a sports car. I hate riding the brake into curves. The engine can drop you down and power it right out of curves. Unless you are downshifting into too low of a gear, there is no issue.

23rd Mar 2015, 16:40

So you'd rather pay $350 for pads and rotors than $0 for doing engine braking instead?