23rd Nov 2004, 17:49

Hi guys, same problems here with transmission, tail lights, check light always on and the tachometer only works for a couple times a month!!! But I love the car... I have a black one and the car still looks very nice...I'm planning to replace the transmission, well, 140k is a lot of miles... time to replace...

20th Jan 2005, 10:07

I have 1995 cirrus too, with many of the same problems (tachometer issues, etc.).

The other day, it would not shift above the first gear... until I let it sit for about a 1/2 hour. After that, it would not shift into reverse. It would instead just 'rev' up.

I"m having the transmission fluid changed, and if that doesn't work I'll probably just get rid of it and buy a new car. I can't see spending $3-4k on a transmission for a car with 140k+ miles...

8th Feb 2005, 07:59

A car will go into limp home mode (only Reverse and 2nd gear), if your tachometer is not working properly.

In such a case Output Speed Sensor seems to be faulty.

Check Diagnostic Trouble Codes stored in Transmission Control Module's memory, if you ve got a scanner - you should see appropriate DTC for faulty Output Speed Sensor.

Check wiring, and connector. Replace the sensor.

In best case, you'll spend ca. 20$ and 1 hour, but you'll fix it by yourself.


24th Nov 2005, 08:40

I have the same problem. It will not go into 4th gear after it has warmed up. The dealer has said that I need a new transcontroller and solenoid pack with labor comes to around $800. It is a shame becuase the car only has 75,000 miles on it. Transmissions should last a lot longer. Will not buy Chrysler again.

11th Jan 2006, 19:00

I have the same problems as with the other owners of 1995 cirrus'. I have had the solenoid pack, TCM, speed sensor, and front main trans seal replaced. The last mechanic I took it to urged me not to have any more work done on it as the diagnostic showed the solenoid and TCM bad. And after I told him I had them replaced he said the computer could be bad. It seems to happen only when the outside temp is above 65 degrees. I still own it and only drive to work on cool days, which is about 9 months of the year. I have given up on it.

David, Fort Wayne, IN.

17th May 2006, 16:22

The manual for the 1995 chrysler cirrus claims you can use Dextron II transmission fluid. this was a misprint. you CANNOT use Dextron II, you MUST use ATF+3!

Use of Dextron II will result in the tranmission going into "limp home" mode and prolonged use can lead to transmission failure!

28th Jun 2006, 12:48

It is such a shame. They are such sleek and beautful machines inside and out. I was going to buy a loaded 1995 one until I checked out the reviews. I'm tempted to buy one with the engine screwed and make another, more reliable engine fit, if it's even possible.

10th Jul 2006, 22:42

I have a 95 Cirrus and have spent about $1000 replacing computer modules trying to fix a transmission problem. The car goes into limp mode (2nd gear and reverse) without any kind of pattern or condition. Hot, cold, highway, city - there is no pattern. Most of the time you turn off the car and restart and it resets and away you go... All I've noticed is that when it does it on the highway I usually see a little spike in the tachometer... The problem continues even after I took it to a Chrysler dealer for repair. The car is a lemon, don't buy a Chrysler whatever you do...

10th Nov 2006, 18:44

My 95 Cirrus has shifting problems about the same as described by others. It wouldn't shift after getting warm. Stopped and put snow on it and it then worked that trip. I have also replaced the shift solenoids with no improvement. A new TCM worked well for about 6 months and then back to the same problem only this time it only happened when the engine was cold. Got another under warranty and reprogrammed for $90. That one didn't shift at all. Now I'm waiting for the dealer to get another TCM. Seems like there is a large problem with the Chrysler shift computer.

12th Nov 2006, 18:04

I too have problems with my 1995 Cirrus LXI going into limp home mode. Like one poster, it has no real 'trigger'. Hot or cold, highway or city, doesn't matter, still does it, though, I do have to say, I notice it more when I'm doing between 25-30 mph. I too see the "spike" they say they see when going down the highway, though this is just the transmission going into neutral to prevent damage from shifting into second at 60mph. Car handles great otherwise, and other than a cooling problem due to a leak somewhere I love the car (of course except for this transmission issue).

I took to a dealer, they read the codes off the transmission, told me that it was a faulty solenoid code, and that it would be 99% certain it would be fixed if I replaced the solenoid. Said if that doesn't work try the TCM. Problem is, I've only found a few places for a solenoid, and can only find a used parts dealer to sell me the TCM. What makes me less happy is that this dealer also told me the transmission fluid didn't matter. I wasn't too happy that a dealer's mechanic could be so ignorant, but hey, what can you do.

If you know of any parts dealers or otherwise, please contact me at coolcat600 (at) hotmail (dot) com. Please label the subject "1995 Cirrus transmission"

Thank you

13th Nov 2006, 11:53

The problem with the transmissions in these cars is in the seal setup. Chrysler used an existing tranny housing by boring out an area by the shift mechanism. This caused the opening to be too thin, and when it gets hot it warps causing the seal to leak hydraulic fluid. When then fluid bypasses the seal it causes the transmission to slip. A lot of people overhaul these transmissions and have the same problem later on because it is warped. If it is going to be overhauled the housing needs to be checked on a micrometer and I suggest use of a transmission cooler. I hope this helps.

16th Nov 2006, 10:06

I have a 1995 Cirrus LXi with 300,000 Km. The transmission had shift problems when cold around 200,000 Km. I added added 6 oz of Lucas trans fix and add it at every oil change and the problem stayed away.

A caution for the cooling of the 2.5 V6 engine.

The temperature sensor is located in the coolant line about 3" after the thermostat on the way to the rad. The sensor only measures the temperature of the water flowing past the sensor. It does not measure the temperature of the coolant in the engine. ie the engine temperature. The sensor runs the temperature gauge and warning light through the computer. There is no secondary sensor in the block running the gauge and warning lamp.

If your thermostaat fails to open, or the water pump seizes, or you have a leak and lose the coolant NO coolant flows past the sensor. Your engine overheats and you have no warning. I have experienced both the thermostat failure and the water pump seizing. I am looking for a new engine or a new car. Change the thermostat every 100,000 Km and always listen for funny noises coming from the water pump area.