1997 Chrysler Neon LX from UK and Ireland - Comments

29th Jul 2005, 07:36

In the first instance I would check the fuse hasn't blown and if that's OK, take a look at the thermostat before forking out big money for fan switches. Also, see if the fans come on when you activate the A/C - they should come on by default when the A/C is switched on, regardless of the engine temperature.

17th Sep 2005, 16:57

The cooling fans started switching on and off repeated every 5 seconds...

Hi, my neon does that, how do you stop it happening as I am a novice when it comes to motoring..thanks.

20th Feb 2006, 14:57

First of all, this may sound like semantics, but never say "oil" and "automatic transmission" in the same breath! We don't want any stupid mistakes. Believe it or not, I have actually seen people who poured motor oil into their automatic transmission, which trashes it in a matter of a few miles. Only use ATF (automatic transmission fluid). Don't even say the word "oil". From what everybody says, new Chrysler transmissions are very sensitive to using the correct type of ATF. The array of names can be dizzying--Dexron, Mercon, Dexron II and Dexron III. Look in your owner's manual to see exactly what kind of ATF your Neon uses. Don't just grab any old fluid off the shelf. Now, with that said, your automatic transmission should have a dipstick sticking up just like the one for the engine block. Often, the dipstick for the transmission is located farther back in the engine compartment, near the firewall. It may have a rubber-coated handle with a little finger grab ring. You'll add transmission fluid through the dipstick tube, but only add fluid when the car is running. You should check the fluid level when the car is hot idling in neutral, after shifting through all the gears. In neutral, pull the dipstick and check that the level is either between the lines or fills the holes (engraved or punched into the dipstick). If the dipstick indicates that the fluid level is okay, don't add more fluid. Overfilling will cause the seals to blow out. If the fluid level is low, add fluid slowly: add about half a pint (using tic marks on bottle) and check it again because you don't want to overfill. If the dipstick shows the fluid level is okay, then your hard shifting is due to some other problem.

6th Dec 2007, 01:06

I'm a student in Australia and drive a 1997 chrysler neon. A few months ago the thermostat switch for the fan died and the fan would remain on even after the ignition had been turned off. Not willing to fork out $180 for the replacement relay just yet, I have wired in a temporary manual switch which I can flick on when my neon overheats when stuck in traffic to start up the radiator fans. It works great and the wire and switch only costed about $20 from the auto shop. yew :)

21st May 2008, 04:25

Hi guys. I have a 1997 Chrysler Neon LE.

The car will run fine, then just stop running. At first I thought fuel, but when you drive it hard there's not a cheap out of it, then you go to start it and will not fire or offer to start, then maybe leave it a while, then it will start. It can run for days or seconds. I'm at my wits end; do you guys have any idea of what this can be?

Thank you.

22nd Jun 2008, 15:41

To the original poster...

GET YOUR TIMING BELT REPLACED SOON.

And your water pump.

That gurgling sound is your water pump. On the 2.0 motor, timing belt run water pump, when it starts to fail, water pump also starts to fail. When that belt finally breaks, your pistons and valves will hit each other, and destroy your valves. That is a VERY expensive repair if you have to go to a shop.

Gurgling is your first warning sign of repair needed.

19th Aug 2008, 09:59

I recently bought a 2003 neon 2.0 and am worried about the cam belt as I don't know when it was last replaced. Is there a way I can check the condition of this as my local mechanics charges me R5000 (500 pounds) to replace it?

22nd Aug 2012, 23:18

Loose earth wire in the manifold.

13th Feb 2013, 07:54

Hi there, I am just about to purchase a Neon LX automatic on a R plate. It's only done 28k.

Just want to know if I am doing the right thing by buying it before I do? And can anyone tell me what MPG I am likely to get out of it?

Cheers guys :)

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