2000 Chrysler Sebring Coupe LXI 2.5 from North America
If you want a simple to fix, good looking car, this is it
Brake rotors warped from lack of use.
Exhaust gave out... put in 2 flex pipes in 5 years. To be expected I guess, it isn't new.
Rear wheel well / rocker panel rust. Rust protectant spray is a must!
Solid car overall, that has treated me well.
Excellent handling, very smooth highway car.
Very comfortable, with lots of room for a 2 door.
Stylish!! Not many around, so it turns heads. I get a lot of compliments.
With something older than 10 years, you really should either know a good shop, or do the work yourself, because dealers will take advantage of you (that goes with any old car).
Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? Yes
Review Date: 28th February, 2013
2000 Chrysler Sebring Coupe LXi from North America
This is an awful car
Fuel injectors went bad at about 35000 miles.
Sensors went bad in transmission at about 20000 miles.
Driver side external door handle broke off.
Passenger side door handle broke off.
Seats are wearing.
Outside mirrors no longer move electrically.
Gas mileage is extremely bad.
Inside lights on radio have stopped lighting up when they should.
I think my biggest issue with this car is the door handles, they are not exactly cheap to replace, and I am a student and do not work so I have one door handle that does not match my car and I cannot afford to replace the other side at all right now. I emailed Chrysler customer service and they said my car has too many miles on it for them to do anything about it, my car only has 63000 miles on it and I have no idea what that has to do with the handles anyway. I really do not think that the door handles should be breaking in half anyway. When I emailed customer service back to try again they were extremely rude about it and were not helpful at all. I will never buy a Chrysler again.
Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? No
Review Date: 28th January, 2008
2000 Chrysler Sebring Coupe LXi 2.5L V6 from North America
Great looker, has nagging problem that will likely make me get rid of my 'bring
Has a problem where the car will randomly decide to not start, will have to crank it for 10-15 minutes before it finally kicks over. I've taken this car to 2 regular garages and a Chrysler dealer, and no one can seem to fix the issue.
The stock 17" alloy rims are a very soft material and bend easily.
The factory spoiler color faded severely.
I wish I could figure out what was the issue with this car, as I love the style and comfort.
The 2.5L engine is adequate, if not really fast, and the car handles decent for having a soft suspension.
Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? Don't Know
Review Date: 25th April, 2006
21st Nov 2008, 09:30
Your problem with this car is that the crank shaft position sensor is gone bad. It is located above the distributer cap on the 2.5 liter engine.
8th Dec 2008, 16:30
Will this sensor cause this particular model to stall out when coming to a stop or slowing to turn a corner?
2000 Chrysler Sebring Coupe LXI 2.5L V6 from North America
At 40,000 miles my transmission went out and had to be replaced.
Window leaks in car washes.
Driver seat belt doesn't latch completely.
Transmission clicks a little when shifting gears and slowing down.
I have been happy with the car for the most part, but my transmission going out at 40k just did it for me. It totally blew my mind and my pocket.
Since transmission has been replaced car has been pretty good, but probably would not buy another. I'm going foreign!!! Or back to Ford.
Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? No
Review Date: 5th April, 2002
21st Nov 2008, 09:34
Most of the time it isn't the transmission going bad, it is the electronic control module. Located on top of the transmission in the front. There is a wire harness going to it and a rubber boot covering it.
Good Morning: This comment you have on the wire harness that is on top of the transmission; has one bolt holding it in place. I have lost the speed signal; figured maybe there are dirty contacts within this connection. Yes, removed the harness connector, cleaned with contact cleaner, put back together; now everything works again. That means the transmission will shift properly. But after a few weeks or so, she will have the same problem again.
Is there an easy way to replace/repair this electrical connection, but not replacing the transmission?
The car has 146,000 miles, runs great, gets 24.5 MPG around town, starts great (I love this Mitsu engine).
As for the transmission life; I change trans fluid & filter every 25,000 to 30,000 miles. The oil breaks down, filter gets dirty. If it is hot outside; not a problem.
I figure one of the connect pins is/are worn, not sure what pin. If I try slightly bending the pin, that would probably work, but that may cause a problem, & when I put the plug back together; this may bent the pin down, causing a bigger problem. Plus the location to get to the plug is tight, hard on the hands. You have to remove the intake plastic/rubber tubing to gain access to the top of the trans' bell housing. The location of the electrical plug.
Ideas are great! Please share. Thanks JimJ.
Average review marks: 5.0 / 10, based on 4 reviews