I am preparing for the deal of a lifetime. Have discovered a cherry 1975 280z here in N.C. for $2500. I had and totaled a 1978 280z, and have been heartbroken ever since. That 1978 was rusty, had terribly unkempt interior, and would have been a huge undertaking in restoration. This 1975 I have found is as near flawless as could possibly be expected. Igngjhgt has 71,000 original verified one-owner miles, is a 2+2 model, and a recent and decent burnt-orange, reddish paint job. Wow! The only major thing it needs is an $80 dash cover, and it will look as clean as any 5-year old car cruising around here. I feel the same love and awe for these z cars that you do. I hope you find a cherry of a deal somewhere as I did.
Fuel injection was the way to go! I have a 74 260 and a just got a 73 240 would like a 75 but, then I have to have it checked for emissions. That would include a state employee playing with it on a chassis Dyno.
I am a Z fan as well, and I have owned a 1975 Datsun 280Z as well as many other Z cars in my lifetime...
The 1975 model was the first to feature fuel injection. (Bosch L-Tronic) I have found the fuel injection in the 1975-1978 Z cars to be pretty reliable, however, it would be wise to check higher mileage examples closely for leaky/nonfunctional injectors. It's not that it's a "fault"... it's just that so many of these cars are out there being driven daily on close to original components! It's a testament to how amazing the L28 engine is!
The only other reoccuring problem with the fuel system that I have seen on several Z cars is the fuel pressure regulator blowing out... a forty dollar fix.
Great Overall car! Enjoy!
I just bought a 1975 Datsun 280z 2+2 and it doesn't run.
I was wondering what kind of gas mileage it gets?
It's a really nice car. I should enjoy it for a long time.
I have a 1975 Datsun 280Z which is the best vehicle I have ever owned; however, I have experienced a problem that not even the Datsun mechanics can find. Can someone help? I drove approximately 30 miles, stopped at a restaurant for approximately 30 minutes, and then continued on my way. I drove about 3/4 mile and it cut off. After that it would crank, but would not run but couple minutes maybe and cut off. The vehicle would crank, but when put in gear it would not run, but a short distance. When the car sits for a while it will crank and run as it should. Can anyone identify my problem? Thanks. king1.
If not the fuel filter, have all your relays fixed, they are easy to repair most of the time, they just have corrosion and need to be put closer to contact. They wear over time, if you do not know how to do this or know anyone who can, we can talk.
I had the same problem with my 76. It had been jumped and the ding dong initially hooked up the cables backwards, anyway it partially fried the fusible links (above passenger side fender) and after passing current for a bit the link heated up and the ignition would cut out. It took forever to figure that one out. They cost about 5 bucks. Hope that helps.
I had a 1977 280 z in college back in 1988 to 1992. It was a good car but it basically the whole car rusted out and the engine went bad. I moved up to a 1983 280zx which had more toys on it but the same engine.. in line straight 6. Not a lot of horsepower but I liked it.
I am so glad to hear the feedback on the 75 280z. I just bought one for 400 dollars that had been repossessed. I am so excited. I was fortunate enough to have enjoyed a 79 Mazda RX-7, but I believe that I'll love this car even more.
I have owned a 75 280Z since new, a 49-state 4-speed with the stock L-jetronic fuel injection. The entire car is stock, with the exception of Panasport wheels, which I added about 8 years ago, using the stock tire size. The car has been dead reliable over the 34 years I have owned it, and rarely do I do anything except change the fluids when I recommission it each spring. It likes heavier oil now that it has 110,000 miles on it. It's been repainted, and the paint on the hood (only the hood) is crackled. Someone told me that they had see this on other Z's. I don't mind it; it still looks good from 20 feet away. Just curious if anyone else has the same problem?
I've got a 75 and it is truly a nightmare! Fuel injection is a brain twister. Too many relays to deal with, and no one on the internet knows anything about them except to tell you to get a FSM or the fI Bible. Both of which are a waste of paper. Will be parting out on ebay next week!
I bought a 1975 Datsun 2+2 about 4 months ago. I got lucky because the previous owner had rebuilt the engine in the last 4 years; put in a heavy duty clutch, new radiator etc. I don't think he put on a lot of miles on it.
Also, when I bought it, he showed me a picture he took of the engine in the car all painted etc, so it was the truth.
Disc brakes all around. Unfortunately the back disc brakes don't have a parking brake (not Datsun 280ZX disc brakes), but the brakes work good.
Also, when he rebuilt the engine, he changed the fuel injection to a Holley carburetor that sits on the top of the engine; with the headers it sounds like an 8 cylinder car.
I've just got little things to do with it, like fix the heater; not a big deal, I live in Los Angeles.
I need to get inner door mechanisms working, so the car can lock, which are a nightmare to find.
Light bulbs inside need to be replaced.
Inside is decent, but I need will replace carpet at sometime, but put some Dynamat down (floors, firewall, doors, etc) to make it quieter on the inside.
Seats, I think he did decent job.
I'd like to add A/C down the line, but I think that will be close to the end of restoration.
I got 60's wider tires with halfway decent rims.
He also lowered the car, so it's a little rough going over bumps etc.
I plan on painting it soon, but just need to fix some things.
I'll need to get another rear end at some time, but it works fine for now. Only acts up if I shift hard and fast when really opening the car up.
Also it has popped out of gear only a couple times when revving the car out in 1st gear, and I think 2nd it did it once. It will pop out of gear, but only when going fast. I haven't really checked to see what causes it yet.
I really love these cars. I had a 1976 280 when I lived in MN years ago, which was very similar to this, and I learned from mistakes I made when I bought my first 280Z.
When I paint it, it's going to look like one bad ass car. I'll paint it a deep dark blue color. It's got a front air dam in the front, and I plan on getting a classic Z rear spoiler on it when I get it painted.
Also I love the fact that it was made in 03/75, so I don't have to get emission tests for it.
I love this car, and with a very nice paint job new carpets, etc it's sure to turn a lot of heads.
The best part is I only paid $1500.00 for it, and I probably spent like $200 so far on it to get a ignition switch and key put in, and to take off the locking nut for the rims (no key) and getting the blower motor to work.
The previous owner said his brother moved to Nevada, and he had no garage to work on it, so he didn't see himself paying someone else to fix things.
Sounds like it could be a temp. sensor. I believe there is 2 of them by thermostat ;)
Your gas tank is clogged with debris. Send it to a RENU agent for cleaning and reman.
I have a 1975 280Z fuel injected that will not start. New fuel pressure regulator, clean fuel tank, new plugs etc. It will fire if a cylinder is primed. So, power to plugs. Another "computer" was added to replace the old one. Same injectors and wires. Pressure to the injectors and lines is there. New fuel pump, you know, the obvious stuff has been done. Input please as to why it will not fire and run.
By the way, it was cherry when I made the mistake of sending it to college with my son because he needed a car for work. Take my advice, don't do that.
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