23rd Feb 2009, 19:16

I have a 1988 Shelby Z loaded T-top car. I bought in 97' for $450.00 from a lady who couldn't afford to replace the SMEC (single module engine control), which at the time was around $850.00 plus labour.

Other than that problem, the car was flawless. I couldn't let it go to the auto wrecker, so I bought the car as is. I took the SMEC out, cleaned the two connectors (24 and 60 pin) and reinstalled it. The car ran, but poorly. I took it to a friend that worked at a local Mopar dealer and we discovered a faulty dual pickup hall effect sensor was to blame for the poor running condition. Ordered up the new part (from Mopar list for $90.00 got it for cost+ $45.00). Then went to the muffler shop, upsized to 2.5", removed the cat and resonator and dumps through a Dynomax, increased boost by 5psi, now 14psi. Ran the 1/4 11.6 sec @ 116 mph. on ZR225/50R15 street tires, this car is smokin' fast. I plan on doing some work to the waste gate to make 20 - 21 lbs of boost. Should be making around 360 hp. Look out Corvette, here I come.

6th Dec 2009, 20:15

Hello, I would like to know the value of a 88 Daytona Shelby Z, as I have a chance to pick one up that's been sitting in a garage for 14 yrs. The motor is not working, says it needs a starter and a battery.

I like this car; I know it will need a lot of work, but I need to know what kind of money they're worth as is? And are they worth rebuilding as it will be my son's and my project? Thanks.

7th Dec 2009, 16:14

To 20:15: Some advice. If at all possible, be sure the engine IS OK. It's easy for a seller to say "Oh, it just needs a starter" when the engine has a spun rod bearing. See if the engine can be manually rotated with a wrench and listen for scraping noises. Buying a non-running car is ALWAYS a gamble. I'm a mechanic, and if I can hear it run, I WON'T buy it without a written contract to buy back the car if the engine turns out to have more problems than the seller says. Personally, I can't fathom why any sane person wouldn't buy a starter and a battery to help sell the car. I'd be VERY suspicious. The starter is cheap and easy to install, and the battery can be jumped off to start the car, so you can hear it and drive it.

These are some of the most beautiful cars ever built. I LOVE the styling. My family has had a 1986 Shelby Turbo and a non-turbo 1988. Both were FLAWLESS. Be warned, the Turbo rides ROUGH. It has VERY stiff suspension. Also, my wife's best friend had a 1987 Turbo and drove it 216,000 miles without a problem. Dodge builds some VERY good engines. I have been looking for a Daytona myself. I sold a newer car lately and want an older car I can afford to pay cash for. I didn't find any Daytonas here.

Lots of luck and let us know what you decide. How much are they asking for the car?

8th Dec 2009, 20:02

Thank you for your input, for 20:15. The price is $1500 but he said we can work out a deal, I'm going to have a mechanic look at the car for us.

15th Dec 2009, 10:00

David, perhaps you could locate these parts through a salvage yard, such as Pull-a-part, or maybe on craigslist or Ebay. These parts ARE a bit hard to find, and ordering them through Chrysler (even if you still can) would cost more than the car. Your best bet would probably be to find another non-running Daytona that was not owned by someone with a demonic car-eating dog.

9th Feb 2010, 07:58

My Dad just gave my brother his Shelby Z 1988. The car looks brand new, and was garage kept. Electric blue, with get this, 36000 miles on it. Dad didn't take it out in the rain, let alone bad weather.

Yesterday brother called me, after a week of having it, he was out yesterday in snow, and an old guy backed into the front passenger fender and dented it. Unbelievable. Crying shame, dad loves that car. Now we need to find a front fender.

25th Jun 2010, 07:35

I bought a 1988 Dodge Daytona Shelby Z about 5 months ago for a grand.

The car was perfect. A little chipped paint on the body and some on the bumper. Lightning white with black and red trim.

The car is a beast for a 4 cylinder. When you get to the 15 pound boost mark, you better hold on.

I'm thinking about upgrading to a t3 turbo and a 2.5" exhaust with a cool air intake and a high performance fuel pump.

The car sat in a barn for 10 years, and when I saw it for sale, I didn't think it would run, but I asked the guy and he guaranteed me it would start right up, and it did!!

I love the car, and if you find a cheap beater, I would recommend buying it. It was a really good investment.