Worn steering components (tie rods, drag link)
Worn IFS axle pivot bushings.
Brake calipers hung up.
Water pump failed.
Alternator failed.
Replaced 2 glow plugs.
RABS valve seized up.
Carrier bearing worn out.
Universal joints worn out.
Door striker bolt bushing broke off.
Windshield wipers not operating properly.
Front wheel bearing failed.
Drive shaft vibration (not centered)
Leaking windshield washer tank.
Rear brake line failed.
Leak in both fuel tanks.
Tailgate latch seized up.
Seat release cables broken.
Headrests vibrate/loose.
Dashboard mounting brackets broken.
Plastic vacuum lines for heater controls deteriorated.
Camshaft sensor (tach sensor) failed.
Sway bar bushings (front and rear) worn.
OK, I listed a pretty good number of faults, but consider the mileage on this truck - 248,200 miles right now - and most trucks would have a fault list much longer than this. Many of these items are things that are replaced much sooner on other trucks.
What makes this truck a winner is the 7.3L Navistar IDI (InDirect Injection) diesel engine. This engine is NOT the Powerstroke (PS) that was installed in the latter half of the 1994 model year. This engine is fully mechanical and replacement parts are much cheaper - around $50 for a remanufactured fuel injector as opposed to $330 for a PS remanufactured injector. The engine makes 185 HP and about 340 ft. lbs. of torque, which can be improved substantially with the addition of an aftermarket turbocharger. A larger exhaust system and aftermarket K&N air filter also improves power, although less substantially. The factory compression ratio is between 21 and 22:1, which is higher than the PS (17.5:1). The PS is substantially different than the IDI, therefore most engine components are not interchangeable (if any).
The E4OD is an excellent transmission, but is the major weak point of the drive train. Well maintained, they will go for many miles, but they are unforgiving of poor maintenance or abuse. Other major brands however, especially Dodge, have even greater transmission failures. Towing demands an aftermarket transmission cooler, and will certainly require a rebuild (or two, or three) during the life of the vehicle. A transmission temperature gauge is a beneficial addition.
The other major problem with the E4OD is the soft shifting. While this may make for more comfortable driving, it is hideous for the transmission as it causes a great deal of heat and friction. It causes more wear that can lead to premature failure. Aftermarket shift kits or shift improvers can greatly improve the firmness of the shift and reduce wear. The shift improvers work electronically and do not require opening the transmission and are less expensive, while shift kits require replacing some components in the transmission and are more expensive, although they are the overall better choice. The E4OD does have a drain plug on the torque converter to allow for complete fluid change, although it's the writer's understanding that this was not featured on all E4ODs.
The E4OD is a 4-speed transmission with a locking torque converter (which may not be available on all E4ODs), essentially making it a 5-speed automatic transmission. With 3.55 gears and 33" tires (not the factory size), the engine turns a mere 1500 rpm at 55 mph, with an increase of approximately 100 rpm for every 5 mph increase.
One thing that Ford cannot seem to get right is the drive shaft. I have seen more than one Ford, both in cars and trucks, with poorly manufactured drive shafts. One I saw was off-center by 3/16" because the snap-ring grooves were improperly cut (one was nearly at the surface of the flange, the other was almost 1/4" from its respective flange surface). The drive shaft in the reviewed F250 also is off-center by about.030", which causes a vibration at about 40 mph. Because the point of imbalance is with the snap ring ends of the universal joint, it can't be adjusted, although the clamped ends of the u-joint have enough movement to get it centered on their axis.
The chassis is very user-serviceable for a knowledgeable shadetree mechanic. The Rear Anti-Lock Brake System (RABS) control valve was easily disassembled and cleaned of corrosion, and has not failed since. Brake calipers are very easy to service since they are mounted on two glide pins, rather than being bolted in place like many systems. A brake caliper and flexible hose replacement took 20 minutes, including removal and reinstallation of the tire and bleeding air from the caliper. Replacement of the Independent Front Suspension (IFS) axle pivot bushings took about 1½ hours, including time to weld a fillet into part of the axle where the bushing had worn completely through the sleeve and had begun to wear the axle arm itself. Replacement of the alternator took no more than 15 minutes, from hood opening to engine running. Water pump replacement, however, was more difficult and involved than other engines in my experience.
The ride is what you'd expect from a 3/4-ton-capacity vehicle that weighs in at over 3 tons. The factory bench seat has good seat cushioning, but overall truck ride is stiff and bouncy. However, aftermarket progressive-rate front coil springs and the longer rear leaf spring offered in the latest F-series (i.e., the 2005 model) adapted to fit the rear of this year's model should improve the ride quality greatly, although this is theoretical.
The interior is nice, but not luxurious. Heater controls are easy to use and access and both heater and A/C work well. The doors have vent windows which are great for directing any desired amount of fresh air into the cab. The dashboard is simple, and features oil pressure, voltage, and temperature gauges as well as a tachometer. The diesel's glow plug system features a Wait To Start light giving a driver that's inexperienced with diesels no doubt that he/she should wait to turn the key to the Start position. A Water in Filter light also clues the driver in to needed maintenance.
Fuel economy is very good considering the size of the engine, the weight of the vehicle, and the power that the engine produces. Average mileage for this F250 is 16 with daily driving and 20 on the highway, although it's my opinion that a larger exhaust system (4" vice the 2" universal replacement exhaust currently installed) and improved air filter will increase the mpg to 18/22 respectively. The closest size engine is the 7.5L (460) gas engine, which in my experience (or friends/relatives' experience) gets half of the IDI's mileage at around 8 mpg around town. Even the smaller 5.8L (351) gets around 11 mpg in an F150, and the newer 1997 with the 5.4L (330) gets around 12 mpg. Aftermarket conversion kits that allow the diesel to run on vegetable oil can also contribute greatly to fuel economy, but any diesel owner should do a great deal of research before attempting this sort of modification. Many diesel engines are not compatible with this conversion, although the 7.3 IDI, due to the mechanical nature of the fuel system, is listed as being compatible.
The 7.3L PS uses a larger oil filter (about 4" longer) than the IDI and has the same mounting base. Use of the PS filter is recommended. The factory oil capacity for the IDI is 10 quarts (11 with the PS filter). The PS oil capacity is 16 quarts, which makes the IDI more economical to maintain.
The IDI, having no computer, does not share the $1600 price tag for the PS computer and is eminently more user serviceable than the Powerstroke. The Powerstroke is an excellent and more powerful engine, no doubt, but for those on a limited budget, the IDI is the way to go. The aforementioned turbocharger addition, available from several aftermarket manufacturers, can produce similar, if not greater, power numbers than the factory 7.3L PS. A complete drop-in replacement IDI can be purchased at between $4500 and $6000, while the PS can be upwards of $9000. One particular web site lists the IDI at $4750 and the PS at $6975, although I am not aware of this company's reputation of quality.
Overall the F250 is a tremendous workhorse of a truck, whether it's powered by gas or diesel. In my opinion, diesel is the way to go, although it is more expensive to maintain than the gas engines. However, with gas prices at around $2.50/gallon, the imbalance between gas and diesel maintenance is greatly reduced, if not shifted in favor of the diesel, and the diesel engine's longevity cannot be matched by gas engines.
Excellent review! This review is an example of what I come to this site looking for, just the facts, an objective analysis of the individual ownership experience. Kudos!
Thank you for the review. It was very helpful. I wish I could find more like this.
I am looking at buying a 1992 Ford F250 Diesel
as a mechanic I was concerened about how good these trucks are. After reading your review... I am sold...
THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!
I own a 92 F-250 4x4 with a 5 speed and love it. There are a few things like the I-beam suspension; a good fix that I did was I took a solid axle housing from a 78 F-250 and put in my 92, springs and all, it's a great and easy swap.
I also have an ATS 2000 turbo and custom built air intake I made from 4 inch exhaust pipe and elbow from a dt466 eng. If you put a aftermarket turbo on and early 7.3, get the G code nozzles, which are for factory turbo models (more fuel flow). Last advance the injection pump about 1/8 inch to the left when facing the engine from factory mark and adjust the full power screw on backside of the pump. You will be very happy with these adjustments and mods. I get 19 hwy and 13 city, good luck.
Just to let you know, I am a mechanic working for an International truck dealership. We service many Ford diesels ranging from the 6.9 & 7.3 IDIs, and the Powerstrokes.
Between my father and I, we have put nearly 400k on an '84 F250 with a 6.9L IDI. It has never had an internal engine failure, the only problems that we have ever had with the engine has been injection pump failures. We have replaced it 4 times so far. We have worked it hard since the day my dad bought it new. Bullet proof motor.
I also have a '90 F250 7.3L IDI that I bought used. It did not have the best of care before I acquired it. After replacing a couple of badly worn valve rockers, rebuilding the E4, and repairing the badly neglected brakes, it has been a rock solid vehicle for over a decade.
As for my experiences at work, they are generally positive.
Until very recently, there was a public school district in the area that still ran a fleet of International school buses with 7.3L IDI's. Very good track record for the engines, the rest of the buses were falling apart though.
The one major cause of engine failures of the 6.9/7.3 IDI's made before 1990 is engine oil contaminated with coolant. The usual cause is due to the intake manifold/valley pan gasket corroding from corrosive enzymes building up in the coolant. This also causes serious pitting in the block and heads and will cause major problems if left uncorrected.
Coolant enzyme/corrosion is a problem for pretty much any diesel engine and is easily and cheaply monitored and controlled.
The problem with the pre '90 models' intake manifold/valley pan gasket is that, even though coolant does not circulate through the intake manifold, as with gasoline V8's, there is still a water jacket port in the heads between each intake port. If the enzymes in the coolant are left unchecked, over time they will corrode the tin in the intake manifold/valley pan gasket and will seep water internally. In '90 thru early '94 7.3L IDIs, this port is sealed off with a small freeze plug and is not a problem.
Also, never get one hot. They do not take heat well!
As for the 7.3L PS engines, there are 2 variations. The early models have two injector harness "pass-thru" connectors in each valve cover. On these particular engines, they are notorious for the glow plug wires to come into contact with the valve push rods, which will then rub through the insulation. Then, when the glow plugs cycle, there will be a direct short to ground, which will almost always melt the pass-thru connector, shorting out the injector power circuits. When this happens, the injector driver detects the short and cuts power to that bank. Cylinders 1, 3, 5, and 7 (right bank), or 2, 4, 6, and 8 (left bank), will all be dead.
The second variation only has one injector pass through connector in each valve cover and the above mentioned problem was remedied.
Another common failure plaguing both variations of the 7.3 PS (and most other International diesels, for that matter) is the cam position sensors. While they don't fail at an alarming rate, they are most often the cause of a "no-start" or intermittent engine stumble/stall. It was so much of a problem, that International redesigned the sensor. The new one looks totally different than the factory original, the Ford replacement, and aftermarket sensors, and is considerably cheaper than any of the others.
Overall, these are very durable and dependable engines. The IDI models are far cheaper to maintain, however.
Greetings, nice site.
I've been troubleshooting my F250 brake system. The pedal is soft until it gets to the floor. then it stops the truck. I've centered my efforts on the Anti-lock brakes. I've seen that you were able to disassemble and clean the RABS. Could the RABS be my problem. I've already replaced my Master Cyl, and completely flushed the lines. Can you help me with the RABS?
Thanks.
I have an 89 f-250 7.3 IDI. I have a question for anyone who cares to comment on it. It actually involves the transmission. As of late, I am having trouble keeping the thing in gear, since it tends to want kick itself out of gear as it gets warmer. I have a lot of trouble even getting it into a gear. It started just with the reverse, but now has moved to all gears. Like I said, it's not so bad when it is cold, but changing gears is hard after she warms up. I have to hold the lever down in order to keep it from kicking out. Also, I have noticed my clutch does not engage until almost the floor. Is this just a time for a clutch job or do I have bigger issues in the tranny? Thanks anyone for any input.
I would simply remove the pan, take some time, 2 or more hours and spray brake cleaner at least two cans up inside the internals. I would give it 2 or 3 hours, then after all the crap has dripped out, brake cleaner it again, wait an hour then bolt the new gasket and pan back into place. Obviously, you will replace the filter as well. This ought to solve things. I would also white out pen marker the bolt positions and the relative places to the actual pan underside, so you do not strip the bolts re-installing the pan. I hope this helps.
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