I have 140K on my 4 cylinder and it's the best car I have ever owned. Since gas went up I quit reving the eng and now I get about 38 mpg with the A/C off, just don't rev it over 3000. As far as work all I've done is replace the axles (CV joints bad) and replace the drivers window motor that was a bit expensive about $200. I bought it new in '93 and simply maintained it. The paint is in bad shape, but otherwise the car is in great shape and still fun to drive.
Get a V6, and as for the comment "VERY costly to fix because it is a big, unreliable engine in a small compartment!" I drive a Audi A4 now that is a big engine stuck in a small compartment not the probe.
So, you bought an 8-year old car with 110,000 miles on it, and are complaining that it needed major work. Did it not occur to you that an old, sportier car might have been thrashed? Perhaps you thought you would get a great deal on a sporty car. Well, you were wrong. You should only have paid a couple thousand for an old car like this, and when the engine blew, it would have been obvious it was time to pull the plug.
I am a Master ASE certified mechanic. I work for one of the big three. I know cars and know them well. I work in a experimental and development facility; just a little on my background.
Anyways, the Ford Probe does not use a fan belt, and about the stock engine twisting axles; I don't believe it for a second, the amount of parts you put in sounds like you should work for a contract company driving our prototypes around trying to break them.
Also, I have been over many speed bumps and my front valance (underneath radiator) is still intact and not cracked; I don't scrap ever.
Also, you sound like you are replacing parts just because there's dirt on them.
I have a 93 Ford Probe GT and it's the best car I've ever owned. 300089 miles and no typos.
Keep the oil changed and don't worry about synthetic; it's all about keeping it clean inside. I use the cheapiest oil I can find; my 98 ford ranger has 276000 miles and its always seen Murrays oil, nothing else. I laugh when I hear people talk about spending 5 dollars plus on a quart of oil.
My Ranger has 4x4 and it's an automatic, all original parts except rear bumper. Most automatic transmission problems are from not changing fluid; fluids break down and get dirty. Move this hot or cold dirty brokedown fluid through in between cams and lifters and you'll get wear, anywhere.
Thanks for listening; now go change your oil...
I agree 100% with the guy above me. I am an ASE master tech, Audi master tech, Jag master tecH, VW master tech, Volvo master tech, GM master tech, and last and most importantly FORD master tech.
No fan belts since they are electric, and you ain't twisting axles. It just ain't possible with any stock car, especially a 4 cyl. Once again, go change your oil!!!
I have had a 93 Probe 5 Speed 2.0L with over 125,000 Miles and was nothing but extremely pleased to be driving such a reliable car! The car did handle like it was on rails, and the ONLY thing that went wrong with the car was passenger side half axel shafts. Which were a problem on both the Probe and the MX6 of both engine sizes (2.0L I4 and 2.5L V6). The timing belt I could see going if the normal maintenance hadn't been done to the car, but that is something that just goes out on older cars, it eventually needs replacing after a while. Get yourself a 5 Speed, they turned out to be a little less problematic than the automatics, but that is pretty much true to all vehicles (less moving parts = more reliability). Good luck with your car.
I find it very hard to believe so many things could go wrong with a vehicle using predominately Mazda components. My own vehicle is a 1996 GT, and other than a distributor replacement at 163,000, and a scheduled cam belt and water pump kit, and the usual running expenses e.g. tyres, brake pads, hoses etc, I haven't had any problems.
I just don't believe so many things would go wrong with a vehicle, especially Mazda based. I am a firm believer in 5000 k services and engine flushes, and only a quality synthetic oil and filters, you will never get me to believe synthetics are a waste of money; if so, how come Porsche, Mercedes, Audi and Nissan all recommend Mobil 1 synthetic; that's my choice!
All of those car companies have some of the lowest reliability ratings as well.
1993 Ford Probe, 4 cylinder, 5 speed, 205,500 miles.
New tires - when needed, brakes pads - originals lasted over 110,000 miles, new half axles - 150,000 miles, oil, filters, still runs like a dream with minimum 35 mpg.
Sat for 4 years in the garage and just started to use her again, required only fresh liquids and filters. Gaskets and seals still don't leak.
This is the biggest lemon for Ford that they ever produced, as it has cost me next to nothing to keep her going. Now I know why Ford started to hurt. It makes the energizer bunny look like a wimp!
As a certified automotive engineer, and after 30 years of looking after all types of vehicles, I laughed when I read the 2 so called master techs saying the quality of the oil used in servicing doesn't matter! They must be joking, what a ludicrous statement to make (and in bad English as well!).
I do agree with the comments about why Mercedes, Porsche, BMW and others recommend quality synthetic oils. Of course it's obvious that these oils handle heat, dilution of the oil, and ash deposits in the engine much better. As a matter of fact Porsche, Yamaha and Mazda designed the K series engine used in the Probe and Mazda MX6, and looked after, these engines will run gigantic mileages.
Mine is 14 years old and has given not an inkling of a mechanical problem (I change oils/filters every 5000 kms, and use Mobil 1 5w-50/K and N filters, Redline water wetter, liqui moly molybdenum disulphide in the oil. I don't expect problems to arise, and am fully expecting 500,000 at least out of this engine.
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