16th May 2005, 07:34
I have a 1997 ford Ranger 4 liter v6. The EGR valve is broken on it, and the valve pipe also. It is running rough, so I took the little air pipe on the top of the valve off and plug it. The truck runs better. I would like to know if I can run my truck like that, would it hurt any thing else.
30th Jul 2005, 07:26
I have a 1994 ford ranger splash and I have a loud whining noise coming from the front of the engine. I have installed a new power steering pump and a/c compressor and the whining is still there. Do you have any suggestions. Please help if you can.
21st Jan 2006, 17:09
A persistent whine from the PS pump is "normal" for these vehicles. Annoying, but normal.
I commented about a persistent whine to my mechanic friend and he told me to see if his wife was caught in the front grill! :-)
3rd Feb 2006, 22:08
To the review writer:
Why would you take the truck over 40mph in 4wd? If you had read the manual or knew anything about part time 4wd, you wouldn't go that fast with 4wd high engaged. No matter what the vehicle, unless its full time 4wd, obey the limits of the 4wd system by staying under 40mph.
21st Feb 2006, 18:32
My 94 4x4 4.0L Ranger started spark knocking at about 70K miles. I switched to 93 octane fuel and this solved the problem for about 20 thousand miles and then it returned even worse. Even though the engine didn't generate any error code I replaced the mass-air meter and now it runs like a champ again!
23rd Feb 2006, 21:36
The suggestion on: 26th Feb 2003, 01:56... WORKS!!!
I had the same pinging/knocking problem with my high mileage '94 Ranger (over 170,000) I used the Motorcraft Carburetor tune up cleaner PM-3 in a very close procedure to listed and now the pinging/knocking is gone! Thanks so much for the info.!
15th Mar 2006, 00:57
Hello... I have a Ford Ranger '94 4.0l... great truck.. I did a TON of research regarding the ping issue and tried the Motorcraft PM-3 solution, new plugs, new Fuel air and pvc filters... different grades (should ONLY use 87 with 4.0).. fuel additives.. cleaned the MAF (Mass Airflow Sensor) BG 44k.. intake manifold vacuum leak.. to no solution. What made the difference was actually replacing the Mass Airflow Sensor; cost about $80 after core return. Immediately made the ping go away, and I'm in the Rockies (mile up) in Denver, Colorado. I think that anyone, regardless of mileage, should just start by replacing the MAF. Would have saved me a lot of time.. all the money spent above has only prolonged life of my truck.
4th Oct 2006, 21:34
Here's the solution! I tried the cans of PM3 from Ford... they worked to a degree, but the pinging wasn't completely removed, and came back strong after a few weeks.. Keep in mind I had to change the plugs and oil afterwards as well... you need to do a 'steam clean'... Here's the link:
I did this earlier today... consistent higher rev (freeway) and under load pinging, all but completely gone... Figure 98 percent gone... Going to do one more procedure shortly... which should remove even the slightest hint of ping.
If you do it... post your results as well..
26th Dec 2006, 23:02
I just bought a 1994 Ford Ranger 4.0L 4x4 with automatic transmission. The truck was missing bad when I bought it and the engine light was coming on. The previous owner did several things to try to fix this. New plugs, wires, coil pack, fuel filter pcv valve. I put a can of Gum-out in it along with 5 gallons of premium gasoline. (the tank was under a 1/4 full when I did this). I started it at the pump and it stalled. It had never stalled prior to this. I re-started it, kept it going and nailed it out of the gas station and it cleared itself right out and ran like new for about 500 miles. Now it has started to miss again, but not nearly as bad. It will rev up and run good when in neutral, but when I start down the road and give it more gas it seems like it just shuts down. I let off the gas pedal for about 2 seconds and give it gas again and it will run great for about 3-4 seconds and then shut down again until I let off. I can keep it going like this all day, but when I hold the gas pedal steady it just keeps cutting out every few seconds. If anyone can help diagnose this problem it would be greatly appreciated. Please email with any suggestions. Thanks so much. firstname.lastname@example.org.
13th Jan 2007, 00:24
Can anyone help me out on this? I have a 94 ranger that I bought brand new, it only has 63,000 miles on it and everything is running great. Here is my problem. When I turn my headlights on, my turn signal lights stay on in the back! I already changed the headlight switch and that wasn't it. When my headlights are off everything is normal. Do you think it might be my turn signal switch or a wire problem? If anyone has an idea please let me know thanks
My email address is RLLS02@YAHOO.COM.
15th Mar 2008, 00:42
I also have a 94 Ford Ranger now with engine knock. Tough little truck, I work it hard.
250,000km, changed plugs and used every cleaner out there, have changed the MAF sensor several times, it is the only problem that shows up on the diagnostics, but has not solved the problem. My mechanic and I are stumped. Stopped using synthetic oil because it dropped my RPMs too much and made the problem worse. I have an intake manifold leak, could this be my source?
3rd Jul 2008, 14:47
Have a 1997 Ranger with a 4 liter engine. Ran fine for a year and now it has started to pulsate; it revs up and then dies down. It will run like this for about 15 to 20 minutes, and then stalls.
Any idea how to fix this?
Also, can anyone tell me where to find the MAF sensor on this engine.
Please, if anyone can answer any of these questions, please email email@example.com
7th Nov 2008, 10:27
My 1994 Ranger 4 Liter Knocked and all it was was worn out push rods and rocker arms. They are in a area where they get poor lubrication so they wear out faster.
8th Nov 2008, 21:30
Uhhh... I'm confused about comment 10:27. The 4 cylinder (2.3 litre) Ford engines don't HAVE push rods. They are overhead cam.
8th Dec 2009, 16:57
I have a 94 Ranger 4.0L. While changing plugs, the driver's side rear plug broke at head level. We bought the appropriate tools for removal and everything came out completely. We installed new plugs, and now when the truck is at idle, it has what sounds like a lower end knock. When driving the knock disappears. I was told that the 4.0 is famous for lower end problems. Can anyone help???
12th Dec 2009, 23:52
Due to economic problems we were forced to sell my 2006 Fusion. I am currently looking for a used Ranger as a low cost older vehicle for my use. My family company uses the 2.3 litre Ranger 4's as fleet vehicles and these are very reliable, averaging 300,000 miles without engine or transmission issues. However I am looking at some good used 4.0's and wondered if any of you guys had had problems with these engines in the Ranger? I like the greater power of the 4.0 and the convenience of the automatic. Most of the trucks I've looked at have between 160,000 and 345,000 miles. Any feedback on this would be greatly appreciated. I'd have no qualms about a 2.3 with 300,000 miles, but I don't have that much personal experience with older 4.0's.
13th Dec 2009, 11:45
My brother had a 2000 Ford Ranger 4.0. The engine is good and has great power. The automatic trannys are kind of touchy. I think my brother's truck needed a driveshaft. There might have been a recall on the driveshaft.
6th Nov 2010, 11:44
Need help. I have a Ranger 4.0 94 without EGR, and the computer doesn't let me read the problem. It's consuming too much gasoline and smell the exhaust. Sorry about my English, thanks.
10th May 2011, 20:00
I had the same problem. I followed the instructions and cleaned the Mass Air Flow Sensor with the CRC cleaner. This resolved the problem. I was able to haul my boat with no knocking for once.
11th Jun 2011, 21:32
Ditto. I had the same problem, and resolved the engine knocking by cleaning the MAF sensor. It was easy enough and resolved the problem. I can now tow my boat without hearing the knocking sound. Excellent suggestion..!!
30th Jul 2011, 12:07
For the squeaking, I have had the plastic hub caps get loose and squeak, but only at low speeds, and it almost sounds like the brakes squealing.