Comments: 1-15, 16-25
The biggest problem was the transmission. It died, with no warning at only 50k miles. Mechanic said the bushings are weak (should be bearings) and recommended keeping speeds below 45 mph when in four wheel drive. Since it was apart, we rebuilt the clutch also, total cost $1700.
The automatic hubs are light duty. They might be okay for a grocery getter, but not for serious snow or off-road use. I replaced them with manual lockers from Warn.
Starting at about 90k miles, the engine started to experience pre-ignition knock at highway speeds. Ford mechanics and my private mechanic have not been able to fix it and we have addressed the following already: EGR valve, dirty MAS, loose intake manifold, replace plugs/wires and cleaned carbon deposits.
I had the fuel pump die without warning at about 90k miles. It is located on top of the fuel tank, so it is a bear to replace. Ford claims the fuel pump causes interference with AM radio reception, so if you ever change it, be sure to install the noise filter at this time.
Despite the problems noted above, this has been a great truck. Any four wheel drive vehicle is going to be more expensive to maintain. I have hauled a lot and been all over and always been happy with the comfort and performance of the truck.
My truck is brilliant blue and the paint job and body have held up well. At 8 years old, it still looks very good.
If I can solve the engine knock, I'll be happy to drive this truck for another 8 years.
I am experiencing the knocking also with my 1994 Splash 4x4.
Any more luck with the problem?
I also just replaced the right hub, but there is still a whining noise at low speeds. May be the differential or transfer case.
I have a 94 Ranger 4x4 XLT I bought with 2.7 miles. It too acquired the engine knock problem (4.0L). I learned that this motor is prone to carbon deposit buildups, and Ford has a TSB to deal with this. I found this online from a co called Alldata, sorry, I don't have the URL. I'll repeat it here.
1. Use Motorcraft Carburetor tune up cleaner PM-3. You'll need 3 cans, cost me $20.
2. Carbon removal:
a. Disconnect canister purge line from throttle body.
B. attach a vacuum line to the canister purge port (about 2 feet is needed).
C. At hot idle, allow the engine to ingest 1/2 to 2/3 of a can of the cleaner. Use caution not to ingest too quickly due to potential hydro-lock issues.
D. shut engine off and allow it to soak for one hour.
E. start engine, allow to ingest the remainder of the can of tune up carb cleaner.
F. remove vacuum line and re-install canister purge line.
G. road test vehicle at 3500rpm for 2-3 miles. I drove at 3000 rpm or so for about 7 miles on the highway, and had engine good and warm.
H. repeat the above procedure two more times for a total of three times total.
I. change oil and filter. They forgot to tell ya to change plugs too, so have them ready to install AFTER this process is done.
They go on to tell you to have daily periods of operation above 3000RPM; I don't fully agree, but do rev it a bit now and then. Also, use regular gas, not mid-grade or super unleaded as they INCREASE the probability of carbon buildup.
I did this in the summer of 02 with 140,000 miles, and it definately fixed the problem 100%. Also, make sure that your MAF sensor is clean, as this has been known to cause engine knock on the 4.0L engine. My experience shows that gas additives, while they may hide the problem, are temporary and expensive.
Hopefully this is the last time anyone will have to wonder how to fix this problem again. Addtl info-----Dealer coding: basic part #6108, condition code 42. Ford OASIS CODES: 497000, 615000,702000, and 702100, in case someone needs to know more.
I have a 1994 Ranger XLT V6 4.0 that I bought with 94,000 miles on it. When I bought it had a mild engine knock when I hammered the gas pedal at high speeds. The knock got progressively worse. Upon my mechanics suggestion I used high-octane gas and the problem went away, except when going up steep hills. After reading this website I decided to have the MAF sensor cleaned. Now with low octane gas, and 114,000 miles on the odometer, my engine does not knock and the truck feels like it has twice the horsepower. It runs better than the day I bought it. The difference is amazing. Thanks to whoever made the previous post.
I have a 93 Ranger Extended cab 4x4, it just turned over 400,000miles today, same everything except the brakes, tires and windshield, used synthetic oil in engine, automatic and differentials. change engine oil every 10,000miles, automatic every 50,000miles, great little truck, I use it for getting firewood, the box is all beat up inside, had a spray in box liner, waste of money, it's all ate out now by firewood. no rust on outside, looks like new still. removed complete exhaust after warranty was over, have dual straight pipes out the back with 2 blue bottle mufflers in between. rewelded the O2 sensor in one of the new stainless steel pipes. might sell and get a new one this year.
I have bought a 1994 Ranger with a 4.0 liter and a manual transmission. When I hammer the gas pedal it seems that it doesn't have any power it is like I just let off of the gas pedal and I don't know what is wrong with it. Also when I first start the truck it sounds like there is something ticking underneath and I don't know what is causing the problem so if somebody knows anything about either one of the problems email me at stang_killer@hotmail.com.
I have a 1997 ford Ranger 4 liter v6. The EGR valve is broken on it, and the valve pipe also. It is running rough, so I took the little air pipe on the top of the valve off and plug it. The truck runs better. I would like to know if I can run my truck like that, would it hurt any thing else.
I have a 1994 Ford Ranger 4x4. I started fixing it up redid all the light head, tail, fog. Redid the Exhaust (http://www.autopartswarehouse.com) with a Flowmaster. New cold Air intake. This all seems to help out a lot I notice a lot of power added... Only problem putting all this on when you redo your exhaust have a electric saw and a Cutting torch.. (I had a hacksaw and it took me forever). Headlights are a pain to put on. Truck has 170XXX on it and runs like a champ... Good Truck...
I have a 1994 ford ranger splash and I have a loud whining noise coming from the front of the engine. I have installed a new power steering pump and a/c compressor and the whining is still there. Do you have any suggestions. Please help if you can.
A persistent whine from the PS pump is "normal" for these vehicles. Annoying, but normal.
I commented about a persistent whine to my mechanic friend and he told me to see if his wife was caught in the front grill! :-)
To the review writer:
Why would you take the truck over 40mph in 4wd? If you had read the manual or knew anything about part time 4wd, you wouldn't go that fast with 4wd high engaged. No matter what the vehicle, unless its full time 4wd, obey the limits of the 4wd system by staying under 40mph.
My 94 4x4 4.0L Ranger started spark knocking at about 70K miles. I switched to 93 octane fuel and this solved the problem for about 20 thousand miles and then it returned even worse. Even though the engine didn't generate any error code I replaced the mass-air meter and now it runs like a champ again!
The suggestion on: 26th Feb 2003, 01:56... WORKS!!!
I had the same pinging/knocking problem with my high mileage '94 Ranger (over 170,000) I used the Motorcraft Carburetor tune up cleaner PM-3 in a very close procedure to listed and now the pinging/knocking is gone! Thanks so much for the info.!
Hello... I have a Ford Ranger '94 4.0l... great truck.. I did a TON of research regarding the ping issue and tried the Motorcraft PM-3 solution, new plugs, new Fuel air and pvc filters... different grades (should ONLY use 87 with 4.0).. fuel additives.. cleaned the MAF (Mass Airflow Sensor) BG 44k.. intake manifold vacuum leak.. to no solution. What made the difference was actually replacing the Mass Airflow Sensor; cost about $80 after core return. Immediately made the ping go away, and I'm in the Rockies (mile up) in Denver, Colorado. I think that anyone, regardless of mileage, should just start by replacing the MAF. Would have saved me a lot of time.. all the money spent above has only prolonged life of my truck.
Thanks,
Hi, all.
It is possible to clean the MAF yourself and save some money. The 1994 Ford Ranger has this problem as noted above where the engine seem to lose power and starts to ping. Over time it can even cause the Service Engine light to come on. I know, it happened to me. The MAF sensor is held together by two Torx security screws. You can pick up a cheap set of these Torx bits at Radio Shack and even some automotive stores. The following webs site will detail the steps needed to clean this sensor. Instead of electronics cleaner I used brake cleaner. It will clean the sensor without leaving residue and is easier to come by.
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/index.phps?showtopic=7143
Be careful not to break the sensor wires or you will need a new MAF.
Dave.
HERE'S THE SOLUTION! I TRIED THE CANS OF PM3 FROM FORD... THEY WORKED TO A DEGREE, but THE PINGING WASN'T COMPLETELY REMOVED AND CAME BACK STRONG AFTER A FEW WEEKS.. KEEP IN MIND I HAD TO CHANGE THE PLUGS AND OIL AFTERWARDS AS WELL
..YOU NEED TO DO A 'STEAM CLEAN'...HERE'S THE LINK:
http://www.berrysweb.com/steam_clean.htm.
I DID THIS EARLIER TODAY... CONSISTENT HIGHER REV (FREEWAY) AND UNDERLOAD PINGING ALL, but COMPLETELY GONE... FIGURE 98 PERCENT GONE... GOING TO DO ONE MORE PROCEDURE SHORTLY... WHICH SHOULD REMOVE EVEN THE SLIGHTEST HINT OF PING.
IF YOU DO IT... POST YOUR RESULTS AS WELL..