I bought a pre-owned 2000 Sable LS from CARMAX. I have been doing business with them for years, so I know they sell good cars for the most part. The evening I brought the car home, the check engine light came on and remained on during the 1 hour drive home. The next day I returned the car (the check engine light stayed on the entire time).
The car has many good features, but apparently this is a common problem with Fords, since my '97 Ranger experienced the same thing. I ended up disconnecting the battery twice (for at least 5 minutes) in order to "clear out the computer memory". The check engine light has never came back on during the last 2 years.
2000 ford taurus 15,000 miles. Since new has had poor downshift ability, car seems to coast forever. Dealer says normal. Just read Dan Jedlckas comments on 2003 models and he say "Down shifts crisply". Did ford have problem with 2000 and fixed it with 2003 model and forget to recall the 2000?
I purchased a new Ford Taurus in 2000 and still have it. It has been an excellent car. I have driven it as the main family car and commute to work in it daily. Also, it has made two trips to Florida and one to Canada. The car rides nice and has been extremely reliable. No problems whatsoever.
I bought a 2000 ford Taurus used. It had 20000 miles on it. Since I bought it it had problems. Drivers window fell and I took it to dealer was fixed under warranty. Engine rattles with bad gas. Brakes warped at 35000 miles I did a brake job that cost me $550 dollars. I am now having problems with the car running rough. I took it to the dealer and four different timers and they have replaced coils and problem is still there. When running between 70-80 miles an hour it vibrates. I am very disappointed with this car I will never buy another ford again.
2000 Taurus SE purchased new. 79,000 miles now.
Moderate pinging is normal according to the owner's manual. I've had to replaced a fuel injector and it fixed the pinging for a while, but it's starting to do it again. I've had the problem with rotors warping too. Other problems: replaced starter, replaced steering column wiring harness due to a short, passenger auto. door lock broken.
All things considered, though it's a pretty good car. I think of it this way: the money I've spent on repairs still doesn't equal the extra money I would have had to spend to buy an Accord or Camry.
Also, gas mileage about 22 city, 28 highway. I'm not sure what Ford advertises.
My wife and I bought a 2000 Ford Taurus SE with the Flex Fuel engine used with about 35000 miles on it. 80K miles now.
We have the same problems. About to change the rotors for the third time. The check engine light seems to always be on, and the rear struts have never been right. Will never, ever, ever, ever buy another Taurus.
I bought a 2001 Ford Taurus Ses V6. Duratec engine with 50K miles on it. 1st problem: cheap Ford rotors in the front. I changed them out for vented rotors from JC Whitney's performance magazine. No problems since. The check engine light came on, and the dealer told me "Oh it will run on 87 octane, yeah it sure will, no problem." Yeah Right! My wife had been bugging me to put cheap grade because of gas prices. I said "nope", but then again I fell for it. Yes it rattles and battles, all of the above. So now I use 93 octane and sometimes octane booster without MMT. It works fine, but it will suck gas. :) No sound from the engine yet, but I did put my own custom made air intake instead of those paper air filters. Another thing yeah I noticed is that the car moves for no apparent reason. Well, I fixed that. I bought a lowering kit and lower it just a little; maybe 1 inch. Also I put duel exhaust to balance the car out. It works great, but the handling is very sensitive. I heard about the engine noise: it might be the engine mount. You might wanna get that checked people if you experience any problems. The car is great, but the maker uses poor quality items. Aftermarket performance parts will help somewhat.
I just bought a 2001 an Taurus SES and 1/2 a mile after I got an emissions test (and passed) my engine light came on. I put in 93 octane and the light went out. A few days later the light came on and I had the codes researched and it was showing EGR excessive and EGR insufficient. I replaced all four O2 sensors and the EGR valve and had the codes reset. The light keeps returning with EGR insufficient. I plan to fill it with 93 and will see if that cures the problems. I also have had the pleasure of visiting the assembly plant for this car in Atlanta, GA where I live and saw that the initial fill is done with 93 octane.
I have a 2001 Taurus GL with just over 50,000 miles on it. I have had to replace the front rotors twice, rear brakes once and the dealer actually broke a brake drum and tried to hide it from me. Another mechanic found it and pointed it out.
I have had it in the dealership three times for transmission problems. Car when it is cold will not shift and going up a slight hill near my home I have to always pull over becasue car appears to go into neutral. Dealer charged me $75.00 per hour and I have paid over $400 to be told there is nothing wrong.
Lastly my engine light comes on and the last code check which also cost me two hours or $150 found nothing wrong.
Call me upset, angry and a new ford defector. I will have someone else reset my CPU when I get an oil change.
We purchased a 2000 Ford Taurus with Flex Fuel and it has been a constant headache. We have replaced the brakes numerous times, had rotors rotated and resurfaced, and even bought new rotors (not from ford). Brakes were last replaced in September at 75000 miles and begin squealing again before Christmas. Car now has 81000 miles and a new set of problems. The check engine light came on a few years ago and never goes off regardless of what you do. One mechanic suggested replacing all the air hoses in the car, the estimate sounded like a good down payment for a better car. The current problem is the engine now makes this incredibly loud roar whenever you hit 45 mph. You slow down to 40-43 and the roar quits. Ford charged me $90 to tell me they have no clue what is wrong, but would let a mechanic take the engine apart to try to narrow down the problem for the sparkling price of $70/hour with a 4 hour minimum.
If anyone has had the engine roar issue or has a clue what it is I'd love to hear from you!
Someone mentioned they are still in the green by buying and repairing a ford over getting a Camry or Accord. Have you checked the value of this car? I got a deal at $17,000 with every option and now my car is worth $3500. That Accord or Camry would have only been $2000 more, much less headache and they are selling for $10000 in my area. We have a 2003 Civic, our 4th Honda, and never had this much issue out of any of them. I will never buy another ford, I don't think I'd even take a free one at this point!
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