21st Jul 2003, 09:25

I have a 96 Ford Taurus, and what the first person described sounds exactly like most of my problems. It idles weird, electrical system seems weak 24/7, My power windows no longer work, or the power locks, my steering column makes grinding noises when I turn it, and on take-off, I'm lucky if the dang thing will even go. I've had it tuned-up, and things are still the same. FORDS SUCK! I'm going foreign next time.

9th Mar 2004, 09:27

I am reading these comments because I have just purchased a used 1997 Taurus and am experiencing all of the same problems. Before it's over with I am going to be a certified mechanic.

28th Mar 2004, 20:48

I just purchased a 1997 For Taurus and I have the same problems: The dome light and the check engine light. Fixed both with no more problems. The check engine light was due to a faulty Camshaft positioning sensor. Other than that, a great car!!

28th Jun 2004, 09:03

I purchased a 1998 Ford Taurus from a local dealer about three years ago. I'm almost done paying on it. The problem is the never ending repairs.

I've had the water pump replaced twice.

When I'm at a stop light, the car feels like it wants to shut off, even after having new plugs put in.

The A/C went out after only owning it for one year. The Ford dealership said it would cost $600.00 to fix. I'm driving with no A/C.

The interior light would stay on, causing my battery to drain. Found out that three door switches had malfunctioned, cost to fix: $1,200.00.

I've had front and back brakes replaced four times. Will be taking it soon for a fifth installation of brakes.

Making an awful grinding noise when I make a right turn.

ABS light comes on while I'm driving.

Most of these have not been repaired. Can't afford car payments and repairs.

This will be my first and last Ford.

20th Aug 2004, 11:56

I came upon this website by searching for installation of a serpentine belt. I'm glad I found it.

My problems echo the other entries. My dome light stays on and the door light remains on which impairs the locking mechanism on the driver door.

A third transmission has just been installed. I purchased the vehicle from a dealer with 49k. At 65k, the first transmission went. At 105k the second went. I now have 110k and now it runs fine. Except, when I got the vehicle back from the shop, the driver power window motor did not work. I went to a salvage yard and replaced it myself. This has also been replaced, but before I purchased the vehicle. I know this because I did not have to drill out the rivets that hold the motor in. Just last week, my idler pulley screwed off the engine block. I put that on myself, but have had problems putting the belt on. Thanks to websites like this I have learned that using a half-inch breaker bar on the tensioner should make it easy.

With all the problems I've had, (it sounds silly, but) it is a dependable auto. It has a great engine.

25th Aug 2004, 23:25

What is wrong with My 1998 Ford Taurus SE?

I acquired this sedan through a girlfriend who's father bought it as a gift for her. Long story, but I never the less can't complain too much...First, the car with 40,000 on it can't brake...yeah!..front & rear brakes, rotor, pads, spring kit, and pistons ($851). Second, in just 15,000 miles later the front struts are shot then just 5,000 miles more the rear ($1350). Third, the dome light stays on all the time... hah got you there **** USE WD-40 *** on lock areas and door jam notch ($5). Fourth, overheats stuck on side of the road, I'm angry new water pump, radiator flush, drive belt ($420). Fifth, I have the DOHC 3.0L like you all you must remove the intake manifold to change a couple of the plugs and wires auto shop $450 for the job, my garage ($25). Sixth, the MASS AIR FLOW sensor, the car stumbles and idles very ruff 2 of those later back on the right track ($740). Now with just over 70,000 miles on it I have to put a whole new exhaust on the car CAT to tail ($1175). I also have had the grinding column sounds, warped rotors, bad fuel economy and electrical malfunctions. I have found that this vehicle was poorly built and manufactured to be repaired. So, if you are in the market don't buy FORD they found the problem and circled it (ford). If you already have one "perform the routine maintenance" and keep on eye on everything. I drive a GMC truck now and gosh it feels good to be in GM again.


5th Aug 2008, 02:15

Wow, I can't believe all of the problems everyone has had with their cars... I have a 97 Taurus GL, replaced, oil pan, one brake caliper, one set of rotors, a handful of freeze plugs, a couple headlights, a belt, an idler pulley, plugs and wires, front inner tie rods, quite a few tires (stupid pot holes, a windshield (stupid deer), a set of airbags (stupid other deer), a transmission pan gasket, catalytic converter replaced at 79,000 miles still under warranty, a tail light (stupid girlfriends aunt...lol), and a handful of other miscellaneous fairly inexpensive repairs required on any used car...

The only thing I know needs replaced on my car is the cam position sensor causing my check engine light to come on and a slightly rough idle when in drive... and a blown door speaker...

My one question for all of you though is... Routine maintenance?

Flush the transmission and change it's filter routinely, have the intake cleaned every once in a while (throttle body etc..., have your coolant, power steering fluid, brake fluid, oil, and any other fluid flushed and replaced in your car if you can't remember the last time you had it done, have all the filters replaced along with the fluids, there is a maintenance manual in your glove box that outlines everything that should be done, did you do it?

My other question is, why are you letting yourselves get robbed by the mechanics you are going to?

$450 for plugs and wires?...find an honest garage... mine did the job for $275 with top of the line plugs and wires... Rubbing noise when steering? When was the last time you had the power steering fluid flushed? Warped rotors? New pads are cheap, and it's a 20 minute job to do yourself... do it before your pads are metal on metal and warp the rotors. Catalytic converter going out 4 or 5 times, the cat is not the problem, have the car looked at by an honest mechanic, don't be so willing to shell out $1000. I've had my car for 5 years and put 60,000 miles on it at 140,000 now, and only replaced the CAT once...windows, locks, wipers not work?...go to the local salvage, do it yourself, or get someone to help you, none of those problems are hard to fix. $600 to fix AC? Oh, you went to the dealership to fix it... they won't fix it, they'll just replace it, hence the high cost... go somewhere else. $1,200 to replace door switches!!! You got robbed...It's a switch! with two wires going to it, how could that honestly be a 1,200 dollar repair? once again find an honest mechanic, or a high school electronics teacher. New exhaust with catalytic converter $1100? With only 70,000 on the car, it was under warranty at Ford till 80,000 miles..cost? FREE!!!

In other words, keep up on maintenance, don't beat on your car and expect the transmission to last, find an honest mechanic, educate yourself before shelling out lots of your hard earned coin (there could be a cheaper solution), don't let the mechanic intimidate you with fancy words you've never heard, ask him/her questions about what they are talking about, if they aren't willing to explain it, leave..., a good and honest mechanic is hard to find, but when you find one it'll save you tons of time, money, and headaches...