1997 Ford Windstar LX from North America - Comments

I have a 1997 Ford Wind star GL with 120,000 miles. The first thing that happened after purchase was the the speedometer malfunctioned. The dealer replaced a battery cable which seemed to work for about a year, long enough for the warranty to end. I got a ticket because of it bouncing around 50+mph The door lights kept staying on running down the battery so the dealer disconnected the door ajar sensor on the drivers door which fixed the light problem, but now no door sensor. The Check Engine light came on and then I had to have the O2 sensors replaced several times. Last to top everything else off, it turns out that the 1997 3.8 liter engine has head gaskets problems and my head gasket blew. Another $1300 repair. This FORD was far more costly than it is worth. FORD buyer no longer.

I just bought a used 1997 Ford Windstar van 5 months ago. I ran out of battery juice not knowing that the interior lights were coming on. However, I saw them on during night recently. Same old story for everyone in here about interior lights. I read the owner's manual where the previous owner penned in that he took out the fuse for interior lights, so I did the same. I have a hard time now trying to charge the battery. The reason why I am here is that I have a hard time charging or cranking on my engine now that the battery drained some. I tried jumping the battery for 20 minutes to no avail. How do I handle this?

Sounds like you need a new battery.

Well, well, well, and I thought I was the only one with this

96 Windstar"door ajar"and "dome light" problem.

I'm so glad I found this site.

I see I'm not alone. I probably bought a new battery for no reason. so now I pull the fuse every time I park it,

and put it back in when I go again, just so I can operate

the windows. "what a hassle".

Thanks for the hint about the WD40, I'll try it pronto.

And if it doesn't work, I'll try the GEM sensor test that Dennis mentioned. Sounds like a good idea.

Thanks again everyone.

Oh! and by the way,...I'll never buy a " FORD " again.

I too replaced a couple of O2 sensors, I replaced the Vehicle Speed Sensor, the "upper" speedometer cable, (apparently there are 2 cables) the entire Speedo Head, & the (2) sensors in the rear for the tail gate. (Door Ajar Light) All total with my time, Ford's time, & total parts, it has cost me a total of just under $1,000.

Have 2 Ford Mini vans. The 96 is a Aerostar (210k). The 97 is a Windstar (97k). The Windstar rides much smoother and perhaps looks a little nicer. Are there any Windstars out there that don't have the stupid speedometer and light problems?

On the other hand, the Aerostar didn't need any major repairs until about 100k miles. (it wouldn't start in wet weather - new distributor). We are torn - the 96 soon needs to be replaced and it was a very good van, with a new hopefully not a sucky piece of trash the Windstar is. Are the new Freestars (aside from being a little ugly) any good?

Have tried the Chevy vans - no wonder their stock is going down the tubes, along with Fords. And I simply cannot buy a Chrysler product Has anyone had a good Windstar?

"I too replaced a couple of O2 sensors, I replaced the Vehicle Speed Sensor, the "upper" speedometer cable, (apparently there are 2 cables) the entire Speedo Head, & the (2) sensors in the rear for the tail gate. (Door Ajar Light) All total with my time, Ford's time, & total parts, it has cost me a total of just under $1,000."

DO NOT PAY TO REPLACE THE SWITCHES IN THE REAR HATCH. The switches are not bad, they just need lubrication. You should have replaced the VSS first since it costs only $20 at AutoZone. I would try a local mechanic rather than the dealer to replace the VSS. The O2 sensors were probably OK. Sounds like this guy really got ripped off.

1999 Ford Windstar.

I have been having the same problems with the dome lights staying on and have noticed that my door ajar light is on. I turned my dome lights off. Will have to look at my door sensors really close for dirt and grime and use the WD40. I recently changed my front brake pads and now my speedometer jumps around and my ABS light stays on. Thought I might need to check my brake fluid level a little closer from some of the earlier posts.

1999 Ford Windstar Update.

I sprayed all connectors and hinges with WD40 last night and that seemed to fixed the problem with the door ajar light and the dome lights staying on. I did notice that the sliding sensors on the back hatch are spring loaded and I applied some auto lube to the sliding sensors as well as some WD40, plus I cleaned the sliding door contacts really well.

Still have not decided what to do about the speedometer jumping and the ABS light on after changing front brake pads.

Where do you put wd-40 on front doors to fix lights staying on?

I believe it was the contacts on the rear doors on the side that was causing the lights to stay on.

I have a 1995 Windstar with the same interior light problem. I know the problem is with the rear hatch. As long as I do not open it, no interior light problem, but this limits the usefulness of the vehicle. Can anyone say exactly where the door sensors are for the rear hatch or how to permanently disconnect them? Thanks.

If it is like my 99 Windstar, the contacts are located on each side of the rear hatch. You can see them once you open the hatch and go to the side of the vehicle. Mine are black and are spring loaded. I believe putting the WD40 or any type of lubricant on the spring loaded contacts would be helpful. Hope this helps...

Mitchell.

I found the source and a solution for the knocking sound coming from the front end.

I had taken my 97 WindStar in for new brakes and a Midas mechanic noticed that the strut on the driver side was leaking. I asked the mechanic if this might be the source of a knocking sound I had noticed recently. He said he believed it was and changed both struts as well as installed new brakes. When this work didn't get rid of the clunking sound I drove it back to the shop and asked them to find the source. The mechanic put it on the hoist and began to turn the steering wheel with another mechanic under the vehicle. They pinpointed the noise to the main frame bolt on the driver side. Apparently the wear from the bad strut caused stress on the bolt and drilled hole and the sound was the bolt knocking around in the expanded hole. He cut a piece of rubber hose to act as a washer/cushion for the bolt and re-tightened it and the knocking has stopped. That was three years ago, and it has not come back, so, next tire service or brake work, ask your mechanic to check the main frame bolts and holes. Odds are, if your van is clunking, have those struts checked too.

Going to tackle the door chimes (thanks Dennis) and dome lights... and give serious consideration to my local transmission shop on the small shaft and gear replacement. I too was told it needed a new speedometer head. More aggravation... bought the van in Canada and now live in Florida. Kelly Blue Book says it's worth 3,100 HA! Can't find a dealer to take it on trade. Too honest to sell it privately.

Good Luck and thanks for the support and advice.

Icsgrep@yahoo.com.

OK...wow this site is weird... all of these issues with fords are the same...same as mine too... it was fine until 120,000 miles... then it all started to fall to pieces.