1997 Ford Windstar LX from North America - Comments

Our 97 Ford Windstar actually isn't too bad.. surprise surprise!! The only issue we have with it is the speedometer. It used to jump about 8-10 mph faster than we were actually going and then return to actual speed, but now its just stuck there and we have to hope that the 8-10 mph fast reading is accurate at all speeds. I wish I knew how to fix this problem. This van must not have been built on Monday because it has 145,000 miles and the speedo is the only current issue. All in all it has been a good rig. Does anybody know how to fix the speedo problem.

I have a 1996 Windstar with a Airbag Code # B1942 LH Primary Crash Sensor Feed, Return Circuit Open. I have replaced the sensor, but I still get the same code, and will not let me clear the code. Does anybody have any suggestions that won't cost me an arm and a leg?

I also have a sweet smell in the cab in the morning on warm up, is this a heater core problem?

PLEASE HELP!

I have a 1998 wind-star and have had the door open deal and I just took all the inside door bulbs out. I don't have any inside lights, but who cares!

I replaced the speed sensor on the transmission, but that didn't help anything it is still not reading right.

Has anyone been able to figure out about the power door locks not working on the drivers and passenger doors, but the side door and rear door works. it's not a relay if the other two work.

There is a reason Ford is going to lose its postion to Toyota and Daimler Chrysler and all of these complaints about their vehicles area good example of why.

An answer to the 1996 Ford question... trade it in on a Chevy like we did. Ford does NOT care about your safety, we know first hand. The more you replace/fix on a Ford, the more you will find out is wrong with it. The censors go bad on the air bags and are expensive to fix, mine flashed so long that I put a piece of electrical tape over it so I didn't have to see it. The same with my ABS light, on every time the brakes were applied. Took it to a repair shop and all they say is " Oh, Fords are known for that". Read my post about our 1996 E-150. I know what I am talking about. Fords are nothing, but LEMONS and we will NEVER own another one. I will go by horse and buggy before I get another Ford.

^^^^ Great Post I 100 agree with everything you said about Ford and their horrible products.

It amazes me tha people still think that Ford is going to help them out. Once you buy a Ford that is it they are done with you and if your car fails in the 3/36K warranty they will just say "that is the way the car is" or "we couldn't find anything wrong with the car" but as soon as your warranty expires they tell you what they THINK is wrong with the car and make you pay out of pocket. Please look elsewhere and avoid Ford products.

Another disgusted Ford customer: we bought this beautiful 1996 Ford Windstar for my wife in April 2002, with just 76,000 miles for $7,000. That first night the CE light came on, as did ABS light. Numerous attempts to fix included cleaning injectors, constantly clearing codes, and even disabling CE light (which I caught on to immediately, when key was turned on and light did not come on). Additionally, within one year we spent $1,000 replacing everything in the front end to cure a clunking noise, yet CE problem kept coming back.

In May 2004, at 102,000 miles, we had a MLP sensor replaced (gas pedal vibration, 2 oxy sensor codes) and a transmission flush ($300). (We also had a problem with the car sticking in second gear, which required either one or two sensors to be replaced, but I could not find the receipt for that one so I am uncertain of exactly where to put it chronologically). At 121,000 miles, we had a $200+ tune-up for rough idling (and CE light), which turned into a $1,200 head gasket replacement. Also noted at that time was an antifreeze leak behind timing cover and a bad catalytic converter, available only through Ford for $800, which went bad from faulty head gasket. After we replaced the catalytic converter and both oxygen sensors (again) the CE light finally stayed off (we had replaced oxygen sensors twice before this).

In December 2006, at 136,000 we had to have the transmission completely rebuilt ($4,000) as we barely limped in for service, followed by another $1,500 to replace oil pump and machine crank and new bearings, all due to low oil pressure and oil light coming on at idle. With these problems, we have completely ignored the interior lights staying on long after closing all doors. It just did not seem as important.

This morning, as my wife was driving to work, her speedometer began jumping between 0 and 120. The transmission was just completely rebuilt 3 months ago. I got so upset I typed windstar speedometer fluctuating and found this web page.

I decided to post because we have spent more maintaining this car than its' pricey cost. Contrast this vehicle to the 1997 Dodge Caravan I bought for myself in October 2004 for $2,600 with 103,000 miles. I spent around $250 to replace an EGR valve when the connection had corroded and led to a CE fault. Other than that I have only done 3,000-mile interval oil changes and once replaced tires. Never even a tune-up, and I have put over 45,000 additional miles on it.

I have owned three Ford vehicles in my lifetime, and I will never again make that mistake. On every single one, a problem developed that led to a computer code saying one part was bad, and when that part was changed and the problem did not go away, another code and another part had to be changed, and on and on until I would finally give up and junk the car.

I bought a 1994 Windstar in forest green with grey secondary colors, with tan leather and wood trim. Very comfortable vehicle. A few days after I bought it, the power steering pump started leaking and then had to be replaced. That has been the only problem to date.

I bought a 1997 Ford Windstar about 2.5 years ago and have had many of the issues posted here plus exhaust ($1700cdn) a new alternator (too much battery charging when interior lights wear it out by staying on), transmission sensors that refuse to let it shift, brake lines hidden behind the engine (nothing like no brakes with a van load of kids), the speedometer flopping all over the place (lucky my last speeding stop was by a policman and fellow windstar owner) and the ever annoying dome lights (neighbors still come over to tell me my lights are on).

However, I paid very little for the van initially, increased its mileage from 176,000 km to 286,000 km in a very short period of time. Based on its age and that it is still on the road, I am relatively pleased. What makes me more pleased is seeing that I am not alone with its issues and that there are solutions to the dome light/door ajar problems that I am trying as we speak.

Would I buy another ford product? Not without my CAA coverage!!!

Thanks to all for being so helpful on here!!

I just bought a '97 Windstar for $1500. I haven't had the problem with the door ajar light, the "chiming", or the dome lights.

I've had the van for 2 weeks and the transmission is leaking like crazy. I'm going through atleast 2 qts. a day. And my speedometer is "jumping" as well. Only diff. is that it's doing it from 0mph to 35mph. Then it stops.

The accelerator thing under the hood (can you tell I'm not a mechanic) was sticking making the van idol at 3000rpm. And causing the transmission to shift down into first very rough. That was fixed with WD-40.

I haven't made a payment on the van yet. And I'm debating taking the dang thing back and telling them to burn it to the ground. I don't like it. I've never actually liked Ford, but this was a last resort, had to have, no other option kind of thing.

Uh, you bought a car for $1500 and have to make payments on that $1500. For that money, you can't expect perfection. You also failed to mention the mileage, condition of the vehicle, etc. For a 10 year old car with an unknown history, you can't fault the manufacturer. Maybe you should shop around a little better next time.

What a wonderful site. I, too, typed in "1998 Ford Windstar door ajar chime" and here I am. I bought this van in 2002 with 24,000 miles on it for $10,000. Yes, I have had many of the same complaints over the last six years. Many things replaced or fixed from power windows, to power steering pump, to rack and pinion (also radio/CD replaced). This problem with the door open chime is driving my family crazy (I live in a small town so I only listen to the chime for a few blocks). It seems to happen more often in warm/hot weather. I live in North Dakota so am chimeless for many months of the year. We did find someone that fixed if for a while (now I can't remember if it was in the winter or not). He said that using an air hose on the senors to blow the dust off. But like I said it could have been winter and just corrected itself while the cold weather lasted. Ready to try WD-40.

BUY A FORD AGAIN? Not on my life. I happened to visit a Ford dealership looking at used cars and the salesman was a little miffed when I told him I didn't want to even look at a Ford. Thanks for listening and thanks for all the postings. It does make a person feel a little better knowing they are not alone in their misery.

Shari from North Dakota.

We have a 99 windstar... the ignition was left to the "on" position over night and drained the battery. After jumping the battery--the mileage looks like --------, the ac is not cold, and the rear blower stays on high, no matter what the setting says. Also, the ABS light is on. Does anyone know what to do in this case. The dealership is closed since it is Sunday...

Another one with much of the same Ford problems. Especially the ABS dashboard light and the "always on" interior light. Tried the WD 40 thing on both the side door and rear door with negative results. Found a solution to the interior light problem. REPLACE THE ARMS ON THE REAR HATCH. That's it. Each arm costs about $25. Solution was by accident. One of the arms broke. When replaced, the interior lights went off, and never misbehaved again! No wonder everyone who has similar problems never came across a logical solution.

I have many of the problems stated on the site, but the one that is happing more in more these days. when I come to a stop or slow down to stop at a light or something the car cuts off. it runs well on the road, but when I'm coming to a stop it cuts off, but startes up a gain. however its happing more often now. What going on.

HElp be fore its dies.