Rear A/C control (vacuum switch clogged) - I fixed it myself for $23 (dealer $180+)
Passenger side window motor - I fixed it for $70 (dealer wanted $250)
Check Engine Light Code P1538 - replaced right intake manifold runner control myself for $213 parts + tax (Dealer wanted $400+ for a 30 minute R&R job) Guy at Autozone cleared the Check Engine Light for free.
Interior lights stayed on constantly - fixed by applying WD40 to latches on rear hatch.
Tie rods started to groan loudly when turning. Injected grease into rubber boots and noise is gone.
BTW, I'm an engineer and figured out how to fix most of this stuff myself by using the Internet and a crappy Haynes manual that really sucks.
I love driving the Windstar and it has it's little quirks that really tick off people who don't know anything about cars. This van has been fairly reliable for us and I haven't had any trouble with the engine or transmission (we change the oil and transmission fluid quite regularly). I haven't taken the van to the dealer after the warranty expired because I don't trust them. I tried to talk my wife out of buying this minivan because they are so hard to work on and the parts are expensive. I am surprised that we have not had more problems with the vehicle.
The WD-40 on the hatch latches is the fix. Came home tonight to hear my wife complain about the lights staying on instead of turning off. I found this site and have to admit I am impressed. Thank you to the engineer for the answer.
Watch out. My transmission went out at 66,000 miles. This is the ford taurus transmission and doesn'y hold up well to the windstar's bulk. They will offer you a rebuilt or Ford new. get the new. the warranty is 36,000 miles, and you'll need it!
Here's an update. The other intake manifold runner control has gone out so I had to shell out another $220 for the part but I saved a lot of money by fixing it myself. I injected some more grease into the groaning tie rods and they stopped making noise. The van is running great and no more check engine lights yet. Just passed state inspection with flying colors. We now have over 78,000 miles on our Windstar and the engine and transmission are running strong as ever. 09/07/2004.
A note to Ford engineers: You guys don't know how to properly design vacuum-operated devices. Also, a vacuum-operated intake manifold runner control shouldn't cost an arm and a leg. Something that moves a little lever back and forth should cost $20 not $200. Another question: Why do the tie rods groan after only 30,000 miles and why isn't there a grease port on the tie rods?
02/23/2005
Here's another update on our 1998 Windstar. The ignition coil pack went out suddenly while driving home late. The engine ran very rough and the Check Engine started to blink. My wife took the van to the dealer the next day where they charged me $380 for installing a new coil pack. The dealer price on the coil pack was $157!!! That price is way too high considering I can remember paying less than $20 for an ignition coil for my first car.
06/17/2005 Speedometer/Odometer worked intermittently. Speedometer needle would bounce up and down. The 1998 Windstar doesn't have a speedometer cable so I figured the VSS (vehicle speed sensor) was bad since my wife mentioned something about the transmission wasn't shifting correctly. The VSS costs about $21 at AutoZone. I don't recommend replacing this part yourself since you have to remove the "Y" exhaust pipe and a thermal heat reflecting blanket (it's probably not too hard to get off if you have a lift). You would probably need air tools, some penetrating oil, and a good hydraulic lift to get the exhaust off. My cost to have the mechanic do the work: $165 + $31 (VSS) parts. Well worth it to me.
I have a 98 win star,And for some reason when the keys aren't in it the bell dings like they are,And yes my light on the dash is on saying there is a door open when in fact there isn't,i replaced the drivers side door switch, But I am gonna try that wd40 trick thanks for the tip!!
Second my rear Ac is giving me problems sometimes it blows out from the the roof sometimes it doesn't,, But the front air works fine, One thing I did notice is when I have the heater on in the back it works fine, maybe its that vacuum switch?If so Where would I find That vacuum switch on the van?
Any help would be great.
1995 Mercury Villager, same problems with the dinger when the key is not in the ignition, and you open the door. What I do is fiddle with the rotating switch thing that the key goes in, and if you get it in the right spot, the dinging stops.
I have a 99 Windstar with 107000 miles, with little trouble. I did however have to rebuild the trans at 75k. I had a guy with the proper tools R&R it 400.00 and I replaced the main gear at the last spider set my self $65.00. WD40 is a must with the door electronics on these. I am also fighting a elec prob with the switching between ac and heat systems. There is a relay under the dash on the right side. have not replaced as yet, but do hear it trying to make a decision from time to time. Great web page!
I have a 98 Windstar with over 100,000 miles and have had exactly the same problems as the first commenter. I have some tips for the guy with the key less light and buzzer problem. I have had all of the doors and the back hatch stick open at one time or another causing the interior lights to stay on along with the buzzer. Usually it is after a rain. Here is a way to troubleshoot the doors. Start the van. Turn on the rear wipers. If the rear wipers don't work it is the back hatch. Next try to lock the doors. If the sliding door lock pops up it is the sliding door. To fix the sliding door clean the contacts with electric contact cleaner from Radio Shack. The other doors behave the same. I have had the best luck using electrical contact cleaner sprayed into the latching assembly while opening and closing the latch. I open the door and manually close the latch assembly in the door all the way using the round part of a screw driver. Open it up all the way using the outside door handle and screw driver. I do this several times. Hope this helps.
May 31st, 2006
Here's an update to the list of my Windstar issues. The check engine light came on and I read the following codes: P0133 bank 1 oxygen sensor slow response, P1133 (lean?). I changed both upstream oxygen sensors and cleared the check engine light with a scanner. The van seems to run much better now, but the tensioner pulley was making a clacking noise and driving my wife crazy. I changed the belt and tensioner pulley, but the noise remained. It turns out that the idler pulley was worn. Oh yeah, the mechanic told me the bearings in the A/C compressor were causing the noise and he wanted $950.00 to fix it. All of you ripoff mechanics can kiss my grits!
Oct. 05, 2006.
The van has 97,600 miles on it and is running well. It just passed state inspection with flying colors.
For those Windstar owners who have rear AC/Heat switching problems, the cause is most likely the rear AC/Heat control on the front dash. It is the knob on the far right that switches AC/Heat and fan speeds for the rear AC/Heater fan. This knob controls fan speed (electrical) and switches vacuum to a vacuum-operated motor flap that steers the air to the top vents for A/C and the bottom side vent for heat in the rear of the vehicle. The vacuum also controls the vacuum-operated hot water switch to the heater core in the rear. If you notice heat coming from rear bottom vent when you should have cold air coming from the rear top vents then this $23 part is probably bad and needs to be replaced.
My 98 Windstar has a yellow engine light on just to the right of the service engine soon light. When I check the owner's guide description of the instrument panel the two lights on the right hand side are blank. What is going on?
My 2003 Windstar makes an annoying chirping noise as soon as I turn it on, and it comes on and off when I drive. It sounds like a have a bird nest living under the hood. I'll check the idler pulley, but can anyone think of what else could be causing this?
Remove the serpentine belt and start the engine. If the chirping noise persists the bearing on the fuel injection synchronizer could be bad. The camshaft position sensor sits on top of the synchronizer. You need a special tool to align the sensor when replacing the synchronizer.